DSES350

The service co-ordinator mentioned to me that they were ordering parts before my appointment, even before looking into what the issue actually is ?

Nevada

This was an appointment to identify a noise? I don't see how a service writer could predict the problem, or the parts needed.

Is the noise coming from the front or rear of the car? The noise might be from the strut mounts, I wouldn't lose sleep over this.

DSES350

Many thanks for your inputs. greatly appreciate it !

The sound seems to be coming from the front passenger side. The drivability of the car around corners is not sharp as it used to be.
I jacked up the car today and checked for play in both front wheels, I found it to be steady and there was no play at all to start with.

AA2016

The quote is high, but those are normal dealer rates (doesn’t matter Toyota or Lexus). I’ve gotten my sway bar links and tie rod ends (left and right outer) replaced for about $600 at a local shop a few years back. Moog is a pretty common aftermarket brand that is used for suspension work.

DSES350

Yup, got it thanks for the sharing the details. I would like to debug and nail down the problem first, then look for ways to fix it. As the front wheels have no play in either axis, I can manage a few more days with minimal usage, until the root cause is identified.

What is the next step I should take to isolate and identify the actual issue ?

Oro

Sorry I couldn’t reply earlier. Glad @Nevada chimed in. I agree w/him and he seems to agree w/me.

Test to do, not 100% authoritative, but very helpful and usually very accurate:

- With wheel up, grab at 3/9 o’clock, try to rock side to side.
- Same, but at 6/12 o’clock, try to rock up/down.
- put car in N, spin each wheel and place one hand on a coil of the spring and feel carefully for resonance while spinning.
- have someone else drive the car while you ride in passenger seat, feeling for vibration and listening (you will find and or hear very different sounds and vibrations than if in driver position).

Those things can be very definitive for wheel bearing, ball joints, tie-rod issues. There is some subtletly about diagnosing which is the issue based on results. From what you said, you show none. The spin/grasp test is more sensitive for wheel bearing issues than all the rock tests. But since we don't’ really suspect that, you don’t have to repeat it I think.

A remaining possibility is an upper mount. This ismore likely on an earlier version, where this is a bearing in the upper mount that pivots w/steering. I am pretty darn sure your car does not have that, it’s a more evolved design with an upper wishbone. What still could be an issue is if the rubber/plastic upper mount has in fact broken and is allowing some slamming. If that is the case, I’d still leave it as-is and live with it until more serious work is needed.

This is not a perfect illustration, but this is the work I was (supposed to do) today and did not, put in these front shocks and upper mounts. The white and black things in the middle foreground are the parts of the upper mount, and I think it’s identical on your car (this is a 2009 GS). Possibly there is degradation or breakage here that could cause noise and contact, but it will not compromise safety or performance in any real way.

DSES350

@Oro @Nevada @AA2016 Many thanks for sharing inputs and detailed steps! lemme dig and get back as soon as I can.

JRA2000TL

Ridiculous estimate. My 204k 11 hasn't needed any of that. I'm in Alabama on decent roads, but still. that's crazy. Many times a clunk is heard by swaybar links. Cheap and super easy to replace. Jack the car up and grab the links and wiggle to see if there's any play. Try the cheap and easy stuff first. If the wheel isn't budging when you grab it both ways, I find it hard to believe the ball joints are shot. Take the car somewhere else. Dealers try to upsell anywhere they can. I was a service writer many years ago. Use only OEM parts.

The mechanic is scared to break the rack and pinion because aftermarket is around $600, lesser quality, and he'd have to warranty that. OEM is $900-1200 depending on if you get it discounted online or have the shop buy and install it. Labor is around 10.5 hours for a rack and pinion, so it's not a cheap thing to replace. He'd have to eat that if he breaks it.

I just find it hard to believe your car needs all that. Are you in one of the big cities in CA where your car is subject to rougher conditions, such as rapid acceleration and braking?

Clutchless

You need to get a second and third opinion on this work. Dealer service writers work on commission and are notorious for overselling repairs that are not needed. I bet you may only need a few of the items they suggested. I have seen this many times from dealers. Then they lower the price or try to sell you a new car.

Here is a way to find an good local independent mechanic. You do not need a Toyota-Lexus specialist for this suspension work, any Japanese-Asian repair shop can do it, or any good shop for that matter. Toyota is the 1st or second largest car company in the world, every mechanic has worked on a Toyota!
This type of suspension is used on many makes of vehicles.

It is a database of shops recommended by listeners of the old Car Talk radio show. You can search by city and state. Then cross check any potential shops on Yelp or Google for more recent reviews as some of their data is old. Good Luck.
​​​​​​https://www.cartalk.com/mechanics-files