dunnojack

Next time will be my 3rd attempt at fixing loud constant rattles while driving. I am getting tired of bringing my car to the dealer. They think insulation = ultimate fix-all. but it's not.

Alright, here's my windshield problem. Please refer to picture above.
While standing outside the car, when I lightly pound on area 1 (to simulate driving on typical Los Angeles paved road), the glass rattles in area 2 (with glass/metal sound, same as the 3rd link in my sig). If I apply pressure on area 2 and continue to pound area 1, the rattles are gone.
Also, if i apply pressure to area 3, and continue to pound area 1, the rattles are also gone.

What could be so wrong that the lowly techs at the dealer can't fix?
How is typical windshield glass anchored? glue? brackets? what?

Are windshields today as simple as this diagram? Maybe my glass is hitting the body, in which case they'd need to take the whole windshield out?

ES350Bob

Same back glass area as before??

You are at the right dealer to handle this, it is the metal flange the glass sits on, is glued to, which in turn is attached to body of car. It is a missing spot weld as my former car and as happened to NGG....though let him add his view from your description because his was completely taken apart and there is also a bolt involved in the same area.

If when "rattling" it sounds like a large sheet of glass on it's end as though you are rotating it while it's end edge is still in light contact with say concrete along with a metal sound I'd say it's the spot weld I mention above.

What baffles me is that you are at Lexus of Glendale I believe you said, and they are THE BEST Lexus dealer I know of to handle this no matter how frustrating it is to go back. They were credited on here with solving 2 of these types of issues that sounded like rear parcel area from inside the car while driving, though you will have to really search the archives as it was back in August of last year, maybe September.

I know it may not seem so, but you really are at the best place to handle this, just tell them to take that whole area apart..headliner, C pillar, etc., to search for missing welds.

dunnojack

Yep. same back glass problem, which I originally thought was addressed by a TSB, but it looks like it has nothing to do with the tire pressure sensor.

Actually, I had it serviced twice at Longo Lexus, because it is a lot closer to me. Plus, longo has a better loaner car policy and an in-house collision body shop.

I remember reading that Lexus took back NGG's car before he had a chance to really test out the fix.

ES350Bob

Try Lexus of Glendale, I really believe they can help you with this.

Won't speak for NGG, other than to say he had a very nice dealer and did not have to be put in a position of having to try out the car after the various fixes, he did not want to own a car that had missing welds to the degree his did.

onsknht

Interestingly enough, they really aren't welds... Instead they use adhesive.

On my Sequoia the roof popped up and came loose from the adhesive used to hold it to the cross members. I suspect due to catching air when the sunroof was open.

The reason I mention this... The noise I hear in DJ's movie sounds almost as if there is adhesive sticking and releasing causing a "ticking" noise.

ES350Bob

I agree, the glass itself it is attached to metal flange it rests on--similar for for front windhsield--- with an adhesive, but in this case the metal flange itself which receives the glass is at issue or seems from his description given related to my own experiences, those of others posted here.

ES350Bob

dunno,

I just remembered: Here is test #2 you can do to better define what the cause is.

You tried the pound test, second test I discovered by accident after hearing glass/metal sound for weeks, pretend you have the fresh air intake on, you have just been behind a city transit bus spewing diesel smoke smell you have picked up in the car due to fresh air intake on....roll back windows down as though to clear this out of car and listen to sound made back there when doing this. If it is a louder than usual flapping metal type sound and/or enhanced glass being cut by glass cutter type sound, not to be confused with a normal bass like sound of otherwise having windows down at up to 35mph or 40 mph, then Lexus of Glendale can surely help you in my opinion.

riley2620

Hi Jack, I haven't posted for a while, I've been so busy. Lexus of Glendale was able to fix the rear area rattle after the third or fourth try. They had the car about three weeks on the last try. Low and behold, when it was warm over the weekend the rear rattle is back! Additionally the dashboard, passenger set and front doors of my car seem to be getting looser and rattle more each day. I absolutely despise this car! The entire rear end of the interior has been dismantled twice now. The entire headliner was replaced and some sort of bad welds were replaced. Obviously the fixes were not permanent. I'll be taking the car back in the next couple of weeks. Good luck to you.

dunnojack

crap. not what I wanted to hear.

Did the lexus workers go on strike halfway through building my car?

What could be so different in my car that most other people aren't getting this rattle?

When I discover what the hell is loose back there, I will be a happy man.

Right now, I get the feeling that the local Lexus techs don't give a crap about truly fixing problems. They just stuff foam and discharge. Stuff n discharge.
I'm thinking, "come on! there's something loose. stop stuffing foam....!"


I made another video of me pounding the window. It sounds like a loose pebble in there. There's GOTTA be something loose....., and they keep stuffing insulation.

View here:
http://files.filefront.com/6702904
or here:
http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...28916867945089

ES350Bob

Re: Rileys' recent findings---Not what I wanted to know either since I assumed repairing welds etc. would hold as long as the car normally would otherwise. This is what I get for discounting rattles, including those of this kind, assuming they are something resolvable, just a nuisance to be dealt with, and focusing instead on transmission woes.

sarge43

Rec'd a service loaner, 8/06 build, testet is and found that it had this same vibration. Oddly enough, went inside the vehicle and rapped a couple of times on the center of the headliner where it meets the rear window to see if this also caused the sound. It didn't make the sound but when I tried it again from the outside the sound was no longer evident. Very strange...

ES350Bob

sarge,

If you still have loaner, hit it lightly bottom of closed fist only about 6 inches above the trunk, 4 above rear brake light showing in back window.......not near as high up as numbers in dunno's pic, and see if you hear the rattle.

sarge43

Bob,
I'll try it later today and let you know.

sarge43

Well, tried this again and the vibration is still there. Hitting both the top and bottom of the rear window creates the vibration. It does stop when pressing (even lightly) on the car body just above the window and even when pressing on the upper part of the window.

The car does also have the rattle in the rear seat area (either the package tray of just above the window inthe headliner area) as I mentioned previously.

dunnojack

I looked at the TSIB again, and the diagram shows the tire pressure antenna right near the rear windshield. That's the area that rattles the loudest.
I don't know what those nuts did the first time, but they were supposed to fix that area.
Something along that big metal beam is making the noise.
Looking at the picture, I can't imagine what is...