Wax.. or not?
#1
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Wax.. or not?
I "splurged" on the 3m Stoneguard protector film (I think a good idea) as well as the dealer-applied product that "guarantees" the paint from tree-sap, bug guts, etc. plus also claims that I "never have to wax the car". Yeah, right. This sounded good, as I got my ES350 in Obsidian and want it to do as little work as as possible to keep looking good. IMO, NOTHING looks better than a clean, shiny black car!
Anyways, water beads nicely for now (I've had my car less than 2 months) but with twice-weekly washings I can see that regardless of what the claims of the applied product, I'll need to wax sometime - if not anything else but to remove the micro scratches that are bound to happen.
Does anyone have an opinion as if waxing should be done, and any particular products to use (or avoid), especially on a car that's been treated as described? I'd like to get a coat on before winter!
Anyways, water beads nicely for now (I've had my car less than 2 months) but with twice-weekly washings I can see that regardless of what the claims of the applied product, I'll need to wax sometime - if not anything else but to remove the micro scratches that are bound to happen.
Does anyone have an opinion as if waxing should be done, and any particular products to use (or avoid), especially on a car that's been treated as described? I'd like to get a coat on before winter!
#2
"Never have to wax" is one of the great lies of the world. Definitely do so to protect your finish. However, wax does nothing to remove scratches and swirls. For that you'll need to polish the finish.
There are dozens and dozens of good products out there. If you're buying at a local parts store, anything with "Meguiar's" or "Mothers" on the bottle is good stuff. If you're interested in the detailing process I'd recommend reading up a bit in the care forum here, or by checking out dedicated sites like www.autopia.org.
There are dozens and dozens of good products out there. If you're buying at a local parts store, anything with "Meguiar's" or "Mothers" on the bottle is good stuff. If you're interested in the detailing process I'd recommend reading up a bit in the care forum here, or by checking out dedicated sites like www.autopia.org.
#3
I have never been one to believe the props the dealers give to their so called "special coatings". In my opinion, you come out better investing in a good sealant and then top it off with a good caranuba wax.
Black is one of the toughest colors to keep looking pristine but is by far the best looking color when it is. You have to remember that Black will show up the tiniest flaws.
There are several good products available, so it' really depends on how deep you want to dig in your pockets and how much time and effort you are willing to spend on keeping the paint right.
I would suggest a sealant such as Mequiars NXT (2 applications for full and even coverage) and then top it off with something like Pinnicle Souveran Wax or Pinnicle Liquid Souveran.
I think you will be happy with the results.
Lloyd
Black is one of the toughest colors to keep looking pristine but is by far the best looking color when it is. You have to remember that Black will show up the tiniest flaws.
There are several good products available, so it' really depends on how deep you want to dig in your pockets and how much time and effort you are willing to spend on keeping the paint right.
I would suggest a sealant such as Mequiars NXT (2 applications for full and even coverage) and then top it off with something like Pinnicle Souveran Wax or Pinnicle Liquid Souveran.
I think you will be happy with the results.
Lloyd
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Thanks for the info. Any opinions on microfibre towels, especially for drying? I've heard that they leave micro scratches and will especially show up on a black finish.
#5
Waffle-weave microfiber towels are great for drying. Like any product, you have to be careful when purchasing - cheap/poorly made towels, whether for polishing or drying, will definitely scratch the finish. And since black shows EVERYTHING, it's something to watch out for.
The best way to dry your car...make the hose work for you. On your final rinse, either remove the nozzle or set it to 'soak' - a gentle rinse will sheet the water right off the finish, leaving you with very little work to do.
The best way to dry your car...make the hose work for you. On your final rinse, either remove the nozzle or set it to 'soak' - a gentle rinse will sheet the water right off the finish, leaving you with very little work to do.
#6
I always polish and or wax my cars at least every three months and like both Mequiars and Giroits products. I've been using a Porter Cable to apply the products and the results are good even on black cars. I was afraid to use a power tool like the Porter Cable until I tried one on a black car at an auto show and am soon purchased one.
Also yes, to good microfiber towels - just be careful of the real cheap ones that are around now.
As for "no wax finishes" and other products I think I first saw a no wax car in 1959 and while they are certainly better now I still think polishing and waxing is necessary. I've watched the dealers apply their sealants and most often the time required is around 12 minutes.
Enjoy your Lexus.
Dave Mac
Also yes, to good microfiber towels - just be careful of the real cheap ones that are around now.
As for "no wax finishes" and other products I think I first saw a no wax car in 1959 and while they are certainly better now I still think polishing and waxing is necessary. I've watched the dealers apply their sealants and most often the time required is around 12 minutes.
Enjoy your Lexus.
Dave Mac
#7
One word of caution about microfiber dryind towels and cloths.......please remove the tags. You will be suprised at the damage that can be done by the tags. just rip the tags off carefully.
Lloyd
Lloyd
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#8
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I did learn the hose trick, and it's amazing how the water sheets off. I bought some microfibre towels but am leery at using them to dry - I'll look for the waffle-weave AND make sure there's no tag.
I think I'll try the NXT and Pinnacle Liquid Souveran combo and see how it goes. I'll hold off on the power tools for the time being.
Thanks for all of your advice!
I think I'll try the NXT and Pinnacle Liquid Souveran combo and see how it goes. I'll hold off on the power tools for the time being.
Thanks for all of your advice!
#9
Be very careful as the clear coat on the ES is very easy to scratch!!!!!Yet the
swirls and micro scratches are the devil to get out even with the porter cable and the best swirl removers available. I have found the lazer washes to be more ES clear coat friendly than hand washing and drying-nothing touches the finish except soap, water and air.
swirls and micro scratches are the devil to get out even with the porter cable and the best swirl removers available. I have found the lazer washes to be more ES clear coat friendly than hand washing and drying-nothing touches the finish except soap, water and air.
#11
You might also try a couple of gallons of distilled water after your final rinse. Start with the roof and move to the hood and trunk. This seams to "grab" whatever tap water is left and sheet it off for an almost dry car! Love Black, but hate to clean it.
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#14
I "splurged" on the 3m Stoneguard protector film (I think a good idea) as well as the dealer-applied product that "guarantees" the paint from tree-sap, bug guts, etc. plus also claims that I "never have to wax the car". Yeah, right. This sounded good, as I got my ES350 in Obsidian and want it to do as little work as as possible to keep looking good. IMO, NOTHING looks better than a clean, shiny black car!
Anyways, water beads nicely for now (I've had my car less than 2 months) but with twice-weekly washings I can see that regardless of what the claims of the applied product, I'll need to wax sometime - if not anything else but to remove the micro scratches that are bound to happen.
Does anyone have an opinion as if waxing should be done, and any particular products to use (or avoid), especially on a car that's been treated as described? I'd like to get a coat on before winter!
Anyways, water beads nicely for now (I've had my car less than 2 months) but with twice-weekly washings I can see that regardless of what the claims of the applied product, I'll need to wax sometime - if not anything else but to remove the micro scratches that are bound to happen.
Does anyone have an opinion as if waxing should be done, and any particular products to use (or avoid), especially on a car that's been treated as described? I'd like to get a coat on before winter!
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