Help! Car won't stay on!
#1
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Help! Car won't stay on!
Hey Guys,
My dad has a 2007 UL ES350 with about 45k miles and lately it's been giving him some trouble. After he turns on the car (foot on the brake and green light lit on start button) the car turns on for a split second and shuts off right away. This will happen numerous times before the car finally turns on for good and he can engage the transmission into drive.
The problem is intermittent so the dealer won't take a look at it, but he's been stranded sitting in a parking lot for up to 30 mins before getting the car to stay on.
I've searched the forums and haven't seen anyone with a similar problem or a TSIB listed so I'm hoping someone here can help!
Thanks in advance!
My dad has a 2007 UL ES350 with about 45k miles and lately it's been giving him some trouble. After he turns on the car (foot on the brake and green light lit on start button) the car turns on for a split second and shuts off right away. This will happen numerous times before the car finally turns on for good and he can engage the transmission into drive.
The problem is intermittent so the dealer won't take a look at it, but he's been stranded sitting in a parking lot for up to 30 mins before getting the car to stay on.
I've searched the forums and haven't seen anyone with a similar problem or a TSIB listed so I'm hoping someone here can help!
Thanks in advance!
#2
Hey Guys,
My dad has a 2007 UL ES350 with about 45k miles and lately it's been giving him some trouble. After he turns on the car (foot on the brake and green light lit on start button) the car turns on for a split second and shuts off right away. This will happen numerous times before the car finally turns on for good and he can engage the transmission into drive.
The problem is intermittent so the dealer won't take a look at it, but he's been stranded sitting in a parking lot for up to 30 mins before getting the car to stay on.
I've searched the forums and haven't seen anyone with a similar problem or a TSIB listed so I'm hoping someone here can help!
Thanks in advance!
My dad has a 2007 UL ES350 with about 45k miles and lately it's been giving him some trouble. After he turns on the car (foot on the brake and green light lit on start button) the car turns on for a split second and shuts off right away. This will happen numerous times before the car finally turns on for good and he can engage the transmission into drive.
The problem is intermittent so the dealer won't take a look at it, but he's been stranded sitting in a parking lot for up to 30 mins before getting the car to stay on.
I've searched the forums and haven't seen anyone with a similar problem or a TSIB listed so I'm hoping someone here can help!
Thanks in advance!
#3
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Has your dad been running low octane fuel or do a lot of short trips? Besides following the standard starting procedures have you tried starting it by giving it a little gas just after it starts, does it stall if you do? If you can have your dad try to start it normally, stand where you can see the exhaust and check for any smoke. Black smoke would mean it's running a rich air/fuel mix and flooded but I suspect it's running lean so you may see a faint white smoke. This could be caused by cheap fuel and lots of short trips gumming up sensors and giving the ECU readings that aren't necessarily bad but aren't fully accurate. If this is the case, take it on a nice highway trip and filler up with premium Shell or similar brand name gas.
He does a lot of highway driving so I don't think that should be an issue. He fills up Premium usually from Costco pretty consistently...not sure if their gas is low quality.
Last edited by Michifan12; 05-06-11 at 06:59 AM.
#4
I've had this exact same thing happen to me with my 2007, so I'm glad this topic came up, as well. It hasn't occurred to me in the last 6-8 months, but when it does, it's very annoying.
The starter / engine cranks normally, the engine fires, then the engine immediately shuts down. After a few to several attempts, the engine will start normally and stay running with no anomalies. My commute is 80 miles a day and I exclusively run top tier premium grade gasoline. As the OP states, the dealer is not willing to help due to inconsistent episodes.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The starter / engine cranks normally, the engine fires, then the engine immediately shuts down. After a few to several attempts, the engine will start normally and stay running with no anomalies. My commute is 80 miles a day and I exclusively run top tier premium grade gasoline. As the OP states, the dealer is not willing to help due to inconsistent episodes.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by SatComm302; 05-09-11 at 06:34 PM.
#5
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I've had this exact same thing happen to me with my 2007, so I'm glad this topic came up, as well. It hasn't occurred to me in the last 6-8 months, but when it does, it's very annoying.
The starter / engine cranks normally, the engine fires, then the engine immediately shuts down. After a few to several attempts, the engine will start normally and stay running with no anomalies. My commute is 80 miles a day and I exclusively run top tier premium grade gasoline. As the OP states, the dealer is not willing to help due to inconsistent episodes.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
The starter / engine cranks normally, the engine fires, then the engine immediately shuts down. After a few to several attempts, the engine will start normally and stay running with no anomalies. My commute is 80 miles a day and I exclusively run top tier premium grade gasoline. As the OP states, the dealer is not willing to help due to inconsistent episodes.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
#6
Well I can offer my opinion. I am not sure if this is the issue but I have a honda accord 2000 that had what they call the heat soak issue. Long story short, investigate this:
After driving the car for like 30-45 minutes or more until the engine is fully warmed up, shut it off and wait like 20 minutes and then crank the engine. If it fires but dies right away, it might be a similar issue, which would blow my mind.
Also, if it indeed is similar to the heat soak type of issue, the car should always start after it sits for like 30 minutes or more for the engine and gas lines to cool.
In other words, does it always start on a cold engine but not on a warmed engine?
If the above descriptions fit, I will elaborate more. BTW on the honda they had a warranty for it but my car was way past that in terms of mileage and years.
-cl206
After driving the car for like 30-45 minutes or more until the engine is fully warmed up, shut it off and wait like 20 minutes and then crank the engine. If it fires but dies right away, it might be a similar issue, which would blow my mind.
Also, if it indeed is similar to the heat soak type of issue, the car should always start after it sits for like 30 minutes or more for the engine and gas lines to cool.
In other words, does it always start on a cold engine but not on a warmed engine?
If the above descriptions fit, I will elaborate more. BTW on the honda they had a warranty for it but my car was way past that in terms of mileage and years.
-cl206
#7
Well I can offer my opinion. I am not sure if this is the issue but I have a honda accord 2000 that had what they call the heat soak issue. Long story short, investigate this:
After driving the car for like 30-45 minutes or more until the engine is fully warmed up, shut it off and wait like 20 minutes and then crank the engine. If it fires but dies right away, it might be a similar issue, which would blow my mind.
Also, if it indeed is similar to the heat soak type of issue, the car should always start after it sits for like 30 minutes or more for the engine and gas lines to cool.
In other words, does it always start on a cold engine but not on a warmed engine?
If the above descriptions fit, I will elaborate more. BTW on the honda they had a warranty for it but my car was way past that in terms of mileage and years.-cl206
After driving the car for like 30-45 minutes or more until the engine is fully warmed up, shut it off and wait like 20 minutes and then crank the engine. If it fires but dies right away, it might be a similar issue, which would blow my mind.
Also, if it indeed is similar to the heat soak type of issue, the car should always start after it sits for like 30 minutes or more for the engine and gas lines to cool.
In other words, does it always start on a cold engine but not on a warmed engine?
If the above descriptions fit, I will elaborate more. BTW on the honda they had a warranty for it but my car was way past that in terms of mileage and years.-cl206
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#8
Intermittent problems are the worst. Ur probably better off just surfing the web until you find something. Yeah u can do it at the dealer or mechanic but unless the issue can be duplicated immediately, they will just try out different things, which can get costly. (It always blows my mind with all the experience they have, that they can't figure certain things out right away, intermittent or not, making me suspicious)
Good Luck
Last edited by cl206; 05-15-11 at 06:24 AM.
#9
Hey Guys,
My dad has a 2007 UL ES350 with about 45k miles and lately it's been giving him some trouble. After he turns on the car (foot on the brake and green light lit on start button) the car turns on for a split second and shuts off right away. This will happen numerous times before the car finally turns on for good and he can engage the transmission into drive.
The problem is intermittent so the dealer won't take a look at it, but he's been stranded sitting in a parking lot for up to 30 mins before getting the car to stay on.
I've searched the forums and haven't seen anyone with a similar problem or a TSIB listed so I'm hoping someone here can help!
Thanks in advance!
My dad has a 2007 UL ES350 with about 45k miles and lately it's been giving him some trouble. After he turns on the car (foot on the brake and green light lit on start button) the car turns on for a split second and shuts off right away. This will happen numerous times before the car finally turns on for good and he can engage the transmission into drive.
The problem is intermittent so the dealer won't take a look at it, but he's been stranded sitting in a parking lot for up to 30 mins before getting the car to stay on.
I've searched the forums and haven't seen anyone with a similar problem or a TSIB listed so I'm hoping someone here can help!
Thanks in advance!
#10
Driver School Candidate
I'm a DS(Diagnostic Specialist) in a Lexus dealership. The hardest part of trouble shooting is get it to do it. Intermittent problem are the worst. Let's say got it to act up and replaced something on it. I still can't 100% sure it's fixed? Or, it's not acting up for now. At the end, we don't want to **** off a customer neither. Anyway,
It sound like electrical problem. My question is, does the check engine light goes out when it die? Or, it stay on the whole time? I had a IS250 did pretty much same thing. Due to a bad fuel pressure sensor. It shorted out the ECM while starting. I have to wait 30-45min before it'll try to crank again. While it die, CEL goes out. But, ES350 don't have that sensor. My point is, a relay, sensors, weak battery,.... All can cause your condition. The more things you notice or can tell your tech, the faster he/she can fix your car.
It sound like electrical problem. My question is, does the check engine light goes out when it die? Or, it stay on the whole time? I had a IS250 did pretty much same thing. Due to a bad fuel pressure sensor. It shorted out the ECM while starting. I have to wait 30-45min before it'll try to crank again. While it die, CEL goes out. But, ES350 don't have that sensor. My point is, a relay, sensors, weak battery,.... All can cause your condition. The more things you notice or can tell your tech, the faster he/she can fix your car.
#11
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Well I can offer my opinion. I am not sure if this is the issue but I have a honda accord 2000 that had what they call the heat soak issue. Long story short, investigate this:
After driving the car for like 30-45 minutes or more until the engine is fully warmed up, shut it off and wait like 20 minutes and then crank the engine. If it fires but dies right away, it might be a similar issue, which would blow my mind.
Also, if it indeed is similar to the heat soak type of issue, the car should always start after it sits for like 30 minutes or more for the engine and gas lines to cool.
In other words, does it always start on a cold engine but not on a warmed engine?
If the above descriptions fit, I will elaborate more. BTW on the honda they had a warranty for it but my car was way past that in terms of mileage and years.
-cl206
After driving the car for like 30-45 minutes or more until the engine is fully warmed up, shut it off and wait like 20 minutes and then crank the engine. If it fires but dies right away, it might be a similar issue, which would blow my mind.
Also, if it indeed is similar to the heat soak type of issue, the car should always start after it sits for like 30 minutes or more for the engine and gas lines to cool.
In other words, does it always start on a cold engine but not on a warmed engine?
If the above descriptions fit, I will elaborate more. BTW on the honda they had a warranty for it but my car was way past that in terms of mileage and years.
-cl206
My occurences are random. The car could be completely cold and sitting for over an hour or it could have been on a few short trips in the last hour and be fairly warm.
#12
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I'm a DS(Diagnostic Specialist) in a Lexus dealership. The hardest part of trouble shooting is get it to do it. Intermittent problem are the worst. Let's say got it to act up and replaced something on it. I still can't 100% sure it's fixed? Or, it's not acting up for now. At the end, we don't want to **** off a customer neither. Anyway,
It sound like electrical problem. My question is, does the check engine light goes out when it die? Or, it stay on the whole time? I had a IS250 did pretty much same thing. Due to a bad fuel pressure sensor. It shorted out the ECM while starting. I have to wait 30-45min before it'll try to crank again. While it die, CEL goes out. But, ES350 don't have that sensor. My point is, a relay, sensors, weak battery,.... All can cause your condition. The more things you notice or can tell your tech, the faster he/she can fix your car.
It sound like electrical problem. My question is, does the check engine light goes out when it die? Or, it stay on the whole time? I had a IS250 did pretty much same thing. Due to a bad fuel pressure sensor. It shorted out the ECM while starting. I have to wait 30-45min before it'll try to crank again. While it die, CEL goes out. But, ES350 don't have that sensor. My point is, a relay, sensors, weak battery,.... All can cause your condition. The more things you notice or can tell your tech, the faster he/she can fix your car.
#14
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even under warranty your dealer doesnt want to deal with it?.... i'd say try to get a video recording of it.. or sound recording at the least and bring it back to the dealer if they're really stubborn about the issue.. its pretty messed up that they dont want to deal with it esp if its under warranty still..... better to have a costumer bring the car back if the problem isnt solved vs turn them away completely imo...
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May or may not be related but it sound very similar to my peoblem a couple of years ago. There is a TSB for the start button module. I had it done and have no issue since. It is intermittent and it took a span of 9 months, 6 trips to the dealerships, and two different dealerships to get it fix. First one desn't even know there is a TSB covering the start button.