Fixed check engine & VSC light…. then broke coil connector
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I have a 2007 Lexus ES350 with 72k miles. I got a check engine light and a VSC light as well as the red triangle warning light. The check engine light was steady – not flashing. Fortunately, I had purchased an Innova scan a couple of months ago when I had a check engine light on another car. Buying the scan tool cost less than paying the Lexus dealer to read the codes once. The model that I bought will also read ABS and SRS codes. I know that many auto parts stores will read your DTC’s for free, but I wanted the convenience of erasing the codes at home without disconnecting the battery. The scan tool showed that I had a P0355 (Cylinder #5 Ignition Coil 5 Primary/Secondary Circuit) and an ABS code C1249 (Open in Stop Light Switch Circuit). I have no idea why I got a C1249. From reading various forums, the ABS system will sometimes throw various codes whenever the engine has an electrical related code. The brake lights were working fine. I erased the codes.
The next day I test drove the car. Within the first mile, all of same lights were back on. This time, I got codes P0355 and P0300 (Random Cylinder Misfire Condition). I noticed that I had an engine miss in the 1500 to 2000 RPM range. I erased these codes. On next drive, lights back on. This time I got codes: P0355, P0300, P0301 (Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected), P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306 and C1201 (ABS Inlet Valve Coil LF Circuit Short to Ground). I have no idea why I got a C1201. I still had the engine miss in the 1500 to 2000 RPM range. Each time I had lights, P0355 was the first code displayed.
I then swapped the cylinder #5 coil (back right) with the #6 coil (front right). This took me about 2 to 3 hours (I’m really slow). I then took another test drive and within one mile, all the same lights came on again. But now I was getting a P0356 along with P0300 and C1201, which told me that the coil that was in cylinder # 5 but was moved to cylinder #6, was likely bad. So now I needed to decide what parts to replace. I thought that if one coil went bad, others may fail in the near future. And working on bank #1 – the back bank - was not fun and I only wanted to do that one time. So I decided to replace all three back coils with Toyota OEM coils purchased at a local Toyota dealer. I knew that I could buy them on-line for less, but the dealer had them in stock and gave me a 10 percent discount. I could be wrong, but from what I have read on this forum, I don’t think that coils have to be replaced all 6 at one time. I did replace all 6 of the spark plugs with Denso iridium plugs.
It took me about 5 or 6 working hours to do all the work. I already mentioned I’m slow. I did not have to remove the black air intake plenum – that sits on top of the engine - to get to the back coils and plugs. It wasn’t easy but I was able to lie on the engine and work on the back cylinders. I placed some old towels and a blanket over the engine to protect the wiring and vacuum lines. I used three lights – four would have been better. I removed the air box and air intake system and throttle body to get better access to the #5 cylinder. While I was at it, I cleaned both the mass airflow sensor and the throttle body.
I had to disconnect some electrical connectors, wiring harness fastener clips and a small metal brace that is in the way when working on cylinder #1. The most difficult cylinder for me was #5 because it has a very large electrical cable right on top of the coil. The tools I used included: a socket set, wobble socket extensions and universal socket connectors. It is also helpful to have a 6 inch magnetic swivel spark plug socket. Also must have tools include: pencil and paper for making notes, camera, mirror and a magnetic pickup tool.
The car is running great – no more lights. Thanks to all for making this forum so informative. I try to always check the forum before working on a car.
I broke a couple of the locking tabs on the front coil connectors. I purchased two replacements (90980-11885) at the local Toyota dealer – just the connector – not a pigtail. Now I can’t figure out how to replace them. I’ve tried searching in the forums and YouTube, but no luck. I found one small write-up, but I couldn’t get the wires to release as it was explained. If someone could provide directions or a link, I sure would appreciate it.
The next day I test drove the car. Within the first mile, all of same lights were back on. This time, I got codes P0355 and P0300 (Random Cylinder Misfire Condition). I noticed that I had an engine miss in the 1500 to 2000 RPM range. I erased these codes. On next drive, lights back on. This time I got codes: P0355, P0300, P0301 (Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected), P0302, P0303, P0304, P0305, P0306 and C1201 (ABS Inlet Valve Coil LF Circuit Short to Ground). I have no idea why I got a C1201. I still had the engine miss in the 1500 to 2000 RPM range. Each time I had lights, P0355 was the first code displayed.
I then swapped the cylinder #5 coil (back right) with the #6 coil (front right). This took me about 2 to 3 hours (I’m really slow). I then took another test drive and within one mile, all the same lights came on again. But now I was getting a P0356 along with P0300 and C1201, which told me that the coil that was in cylinder # 5 but was moved to cylinder #6, was likely bad. So now I needed to decide what parts to replace. I thought that if one coil went bad, others may fail in the near future. And working on bank #1 – the back bank - was not fun and I only wanted to do that one time. So I decided to replace all three back coils with Toyota OEM coils purchased at a local Toyota dealer. I knew that I could buy them on-line for less, but the dealer had them in stock and gave me a 10 percent discount. I could be wrong, but from what I have read on this forum, I don’t think that coils have to be replaced all 6 at one time. I did replace all 6 of the spark plugs with Denso iridium plugs.
It took me about 5 or 6 working hours to do all the work. I already mentioned I’m slow. I did not have to remove the black air intake plenum – that sits on top of the engine - to get to the back coils and plugs. It wasn’t easy but I was able to lie on the engine and work on the back cylinders. I placed some old towels and a blanket over the engine to protect the wiring and vacuum lines. I used three lights – four would have been better. I removed the air box and air intake system and throttle body to get better access to the #5 cylinder. While I was at it, I cleaned both the mass airflow sensor and the throttle body.
I had to disconnect some electrical connectors, wiring harness fastener clips and a small metal brace that is in the way when working on cylinder #1. The most difficult cylinder for me was #5 because it has a very large electrical cable right on top of the coil. The tools I used included: a socket set, wobble socket extensions and universal socket connectors. It is also helpful to have a 6 inch magnetic swivel spark plug socket. Also must have tools include: pencil and paper for making notes, camera, mirror and a magnetic pickup tool.
The car is running great – no more lights. Thanks to all for making this forum so informative. I try to always check the forum before working on a car.
I broke a couple of the locking tabs on the front coil connectors. I purchased two replacements (90980-11885) at the local Toyota dealer – just the connector – not a pigtail. Now I can’t figure out how to replace them. I’ve tried searching in the forums and YouTube, but no luck. I found one small write-up, but I couldn’t get the wires to release as it was explained. If someone could provide directions or a link, I sure would appreciate it.
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05.pdf
07.pdf
01a.pdf
according to the part # its a type 2.3 ii <FEMALE> 4P Waterproof Type
Part No. 11885 O 2.3 II Female 4 Sealed
these pdf give some detailed info which may be useful when u match the type 2.3 ii female sealed with the appropriate diagram. The are several other pdfs which refer to wire replacement but i dont think u need those![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
i reread ur post and maybe u need to replace wires so i added a few pdfs
07.pdf
01a.pdf
according to the part # its a type 2.3 ii <FEMALE> 4P Waterproof Type
Part No. 11885 O 2.3 II Female 4 Sealed
these pdf give some detailed info which may be useful when u match the type 2.3 ii female sealed with the appropriate diagram. The are several other pdfs which refer to wire replacement but i dont think u need those
![Smilie](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
i reread ur post and maybe u need to replace wires so i added a few pdfs
Last edited by nevernu; 03-22-14 at 05:33 PM.
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jerseylean (08-05-23)
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After viewing a couple of YouTube videos - they were hard to find - I finally got up the courage to attempt at replacing my two broken connectors. I used a small jeweler's screwdriver to release the pins. Even though I was being careful, I damaged both of the old connector housings trying to get the metal inserts out of the connectors. But they did come out. The two new connectors were easy to install.
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I did this on a 99 Solara. Those had a common part with a GM car. Maybe some research you will find the same thing and be able to cross ref. I couldnt find a Toyota part, but found a GM part that worked.
https://www.toyotanation.com/threads...#post-14245038
https://www.toyotanation.com/threads...#post-14245038
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