ES - 5th Gen (2007-2012) Discussion topics related to 2007+ ES350

Rattling/Growling noise while AC is on

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Old 08-28-20, 01:05 PM
  #16  
norakat
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Originally Posted by jonathan13
my car rattles from a pulley when the a/c is on only, i have diagnosed the problem and you can to with a few simple steps. step one go to auto part store and buy a stethoscope for automobile if you dont have one, sure u can a use pipe but its way more accurate with this tool. step 2 and 3 remove plastic trim from hood on passenger side area were water pump and belts is and remove, grab a jack and remove the driver side tire. step 3 under the tire u find 2 or 3 10 mm bolts hiding the belt area so remove. next make sure car is secure with jack stand parking brake and just be careful.( have someone help you tell them to put the emergency break on hold the brake do not let go and put the car in D while idling and foot on break to hear the noise more clear keep in mind the ac has to be on) make sure your stethoscope does not get stuck on any belts. step 4 carefully hover your stethoscope over the idle tension-er to hear sound note you do not have to put the stethoscope on top directly just hover over, next from the bottom very carefully hover you stethoscope over the water pump pulley. you should here the sound on both but it gets much louder when closer to water pump pulley! there fore the problem is the water pump because it is shot out it may not be leaking the rotating mechanism is damaged therefore needs to be replaced. now since you are already going to go into that area i recomend to switch the tensioner pulley if you can buy one say rock auto for 15$ or nearest autostore, autozone has is for 50. any ways replace the idle pulley just bcuz your there already and water pump. you can swap out thermostat but not nessary, oh yeah and might as well change the serpentine belt you will regret it if it rips later espicially if your not doing your own work, however if your problem is just the idle tensioner you are in luck and the job is so simple
good luck to us all

so if you dont want to read my description the problem is the water pump!
from mickyanic on youtube
i used a human stethpscope but it got really dirty and they might cost a little more
So did you change the water pump and the problem went away?
Old 09-01-20, 09:37 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by ChudiM
Well , I got it used about 70k miles , and that same noise was there, took it to an independent shop and was told to do the water pump assy, changed out that with OEM spec. But the noise is still there and behaves as stated earlier. So am pretty much for the fact that it's a pulley gone bad, which is now the challenge. I have ordered a new serpentine belt for now pending when I get the quote for a new tensioner/labour
OMG, just read that you changed the water pump. The 'jonathan13' also changed his water pump for this same problem and it also didn't go away.

I can't believe some mechanics would just casually determine its the water pump! Thats a big job. They should repay you for misdiagnosing the problem. What did they say after the problem did not go away.. my G-d!

I wonder if this is a common scam among mechanics.. fuggin theives!
Old 09-01-20, 09:43 PM
  #18  
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For anyone with the same problem -

I started another thread and will get to the bottom of this:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...engaged-2.html
Old 09-02-20, 12:48 AM
  #19  
ChudiM
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Originally Posted by norakat
OMG, just read that you changed the water pump. The 'jonathan13' also changed his water pump for this same problem and it also didn't go away.

I can't believe some mechanics would just casually determine its the water pump! Thats a big job. They should repay you for misdiagnosing the problem. What did they say after the problem did not go away.. my G-d!

I wonder if this is a common scam among mechanics.. fuggin theives!
Yea, I think it's the AC compressor pulley that's gone bad, would need to be replaced, just the pulley all other components should be re used including the magnetic clutch
Old 09-02-20, 01:02 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by ChudiM
Yea, I think it's the AC compressor pulley that's gone bad, would need to be replaced, just the pulley all other components should be re used including the magnetic clutch
You should really read these articles toward the end of my thread:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...engaged-2.html

I don’t know what symptoms you have but if they’re the same as mine, it can very well be your alternator pulley if you haven’t changed it yet.

Don’t think just because the sound comes and goes when you turn the AC on means it’s the AC compressor. It is normal for the AC to put a load onto the Serpentine belt system.


Old 09-08-20, 11:33 AM
  #21  
bucfan22
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My 2008 es350 has tiny squishing noise for awhile since 100k, now 140k mile. After a long trip to utah, driving on unfinished and rocky road, it starts to have same grawling problem when shift in R or D with AC on just like what others posted here. Grawling noise is gone when in P or N or AC off. At first i worry something wrong about the transmission as i just changed fluid and filter few months back but after reading online i realize it could be any one of Alternator pulley, water pump, 2 idler pulley and tensioner pulley could be the sources. Not at good at pinpoint to which one and not want to pay for mechanic to find out. Love to watch youtube diy so i decided it time to do major maintenance of replace them all in once so i don't have to worry about popular water pump leaking in future and have to drain coolant twice for water pump and alternator replacement. i know you can replace just alternator pulley but it is almost half the cost of new denso reman anyway and i don't have tool to just replace the pulley ifself so changing alternator is my go to option. After spending all afternoon, i putting everything back together, and surprising the most time consuming i have to deal with was to put back the lexus radiator hose clamp. 3 hours struggle to put it back and failed so i just replaced them with regular cheap screw clamp from homedepot. All the noises are gone, squishing noise is no more. Dont know how long it last with my armature diy but i am happy for now.
Old 09-08-20, 01:24 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by bucfan22
My 2008 es350 has tiny squishing noise for ..with my armature diy but i am happy for now.
That is crazy .. must have cost a fortune?

Can I ask you a question - to change the alternator, you have to remove coolant reservoir?

The alternator pulley costs $71 for my car at a discounted dealer online (Discount Parts Monster). You can borrow the tool to remove the pulley from Autozone.

So what did you change exactly? Alternator, Water pump, idler pulley and tensioner? Or more?

Good to know not a problem w AC compressor.

Last edited by norakat; 09-08-20 at 01:29 PM.
Old 09-08-20, 02:06 PM
  #23  
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Denso alternator $150
Asin water pump $90
toyota thermostat $20
Gate idler pulley $80 for 2
Gate tensioner pulley $40
Coolant 2 gallon $25
bando serpentine belt $20
So all about $400-$450. Yeah i know it is a lot of money for a 12 years old car but deep down since i got it i always want to replace the water pump since it is more than 100K miles. So many posts about people had leaking problem then causing a major damage to engine. The pulley stuffs i know they are just personal things. The squishing and growling noise are annoyances but certainly not necessary have to repair right away.
Yes . i read many posts about alternator pulley but decided it is 12 years old. don't want to go thru open up the car and radiator to replace it again if it goes bad. for $70 more i get whole alternator with new pulley and a peace of mind.
Because i jack up the engine to replace water pump, i don't have to remove coolant reservoir.
Old 09-08-20, 03:02 PM
  #24  
Wilson2000
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Originally Posted by bucfan22
After spending all afternoon, i putting everything back together, and surprising the most time consuming i have to deal with was to put back the lexus radiator hose clamp. 3 hours struggle to put it back and failed so i just replaced them with regular cheap screw clamp from homedepot.
Using worm-drive clamps on plastic radiators is a big no-no! They don't clamp down evenly and will eventually crack the plastic, causing a leak. So, while you did all this work to prevent future breakdowns, you may have been counter-productive in this last detail. You should put your OEM clamps back on ASAP!
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