hisstojay

For clarity sake here: what year model did Lexus actually got over the problem(s) with the transmission flare and water pump issues...do 2010 to 2012 have these problems..?
*** AFAIK: the ATF is a chemical component which will deteriorate over time due to heat; it should not be a LIFETIME magic fluid!!!!!!
Thanks

fmradioman

I wrote this prior to reading eagleeye99's possible solution above but I am doubtful his solution will work for me as I already tried a version of his impact driver bit solution to no avail. That being said, I am so desperate that I may try those specific drivers anyways.

OK here is the deal...
I have an 08 Avalon Limited with 78K on it which (as I understand it) is nearly identical transmission / engine /frame wise to the ES 350. I just bought it and must assume it has never had trans fluid or filter changed. I am a person that believes in changing the trans filter if you are changing the fluid so I am trying to plan out how to do it. I am really resistant to loosening motor mounts and jacking up the engine so I can drop the pan just because of one SINGLE bolt that is in accessible so I have been looking EVERYWHERE for a took that can remove it while leaving the motor where it is. The closest I have come is a harbor freight standard 60 Degree offset wrench the angle of offset is perfect but the the offset is to deep given the working space It is here... https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piec...set-32042.html

Another (more exciting) one is the Kobalt ratcheting wrench (with a very compact head located here... https://www.lowes.com/pd/kobalt-10mm...xoCKUYQAvD_BwE

Neither of these 2 tools work but the Kobalt is the most promising (see attached picture) as it actually goes on the top of the bolt, it just does not seat all the way down to the bottom of the bolt head. Also, it is short so it is easier to maneuver in the space allowed. Additionally, if I could just get it to seat the ratchet function would be perfect for this application. The situation may lead me to either A) very carefully try to grind down the side of the kobalt that is closest to the pan. This might ruin the ratchet but it might not. B) try to dent in the side of the trans pan just a bit right where the bolt head area is. C) both A & B.

A side note... I have discovered that ratcheting wrenches vary by model. In other words the heads around the ratchet are smaller or bigger by model/brand. in this case the Kobalt is the thinnest ratchet head mechanism I have found.

I am posting this out of desperation to hopefully get feedback if anyone else has found a tool that will work and to get a few answers (see below)

A few questions...

1) It just dawned on me... If I do succeed in finding the tool, will the bolt (itself) be short enough to fully remove with the given limited space? If anyone knows, please provide feedback.

2) Any specific tools that you have that have worked and where to buy / cost?

3) any ideas as to potential modifications that would allow the use of either of the tools listed above?

4) Any one know of a ratcheting wrench with a thinner head than the Kobalt?

If your answer is going to be anything like "just give up and jack up the engine", please do not respond to this post. If you have ideas as to a solution. please reply ASAP as I want to drop the pan soon.

So close and yet so far!

fmradioman

What specific make model year did this tool/driver work on? I have an 08 Avalon and think trans area is identical to es350. I tried a different driver set and it did not work because frame did not let it seat properly on bolt head. Is this set much different than a normal set? I assume this is the same thing as this... unfortunately, amazon does not stock any more. Any ideas where I can get this? Do you think it would work on an 08 Avalon? Please advise ASAP as I want to change trans filter soon. Thanks!

chuyrobles

I remember being able to remove the one bolt with an old offset box wrench; It didn’t seem too challenging. The difficult part was threading the bolt back in without stripping it. I got so paranoid of stripping the bolt, I went ahead and lifted the engine which is not as bad or as difficult as it sounds; it only needs to raise about two inches.

fmradioman

If I wanted to drain old fluid and replace trans filter and then flush... is this the correct order dto do it in? If someone has done all of these things on an 08ish Avalon or ES 350 please advise.

on a cold engine (so fluid will be about the same going in as coming out). or should I do it on a slightly warm engine?

1. Level Trans Pan with a level
2. Drain fluid by taking out plug and then the plastic leveling straw. measure fluid that is taken out
3. remove 18 trans bolts possibly by jacking engine up.
4. replace trans filter (strainer) torque to 8Ft Lbs (per Chilton)
5. clean trans pan and put on new gasket. Torque to 35 INCH lbs? (lower torque because aftermarket gasket is rubber and OEM is coated metal) OEM says 62 inch lbs (per Chilton). ?? any opinions???.
6. Replace Trans Fluid with slightly more than came out (1/4qt?)
7. screw on filler plug hand tight
8. execute filler line flush sequence as shown earlier in this thread. (should I put a small amount of additional trans fluid in?)
9. Start car and put into trans temperature monitor mode when 104 degrees arrives then
10. open bottom pan plug and do fluid leveling procedure
11. per chilton... Add an additional 200 ml of ATF WS through the
refill hole.
12. Install the refill plug with a new gasket.
13. tighten it all down
14. take car for a drive and check for leaks.

Have I missed anything? is this the correct sequence? Please advise if you have specific experience with the SEALED Transmission (U660E) 2008ish Avalon or ES 350.

Also, anyone have any opinions on the Oreilly Auto Power Torque (OE Specs made in Taiwan) Trans Filter FK-424. It is the only place I can get the filter that is REASONABLY PRICED and in stock.

Your fast reply would be greatly appreciated as I want to do this ASAP.

chuyrobles

Yep, that's about it. Some comments/notes/tips:
#3, re-install the drain plug to avoid spillage as you remove the pan.
#4, remember to remove the O-ring (it may come off with the filter), and re-install before bolting the new filter.
#5, I went with 32 ft/in; and check torque every oil change.
#7, Dont forget to first install the orange level thingy.
#8, I don't recall this procedure; what is it?
#9, IR gun is just as effective, but easier to take a temp measurement.

The Oreilly filter I bought did not have the O-ring; re-use the OEM if in good shape.

EagleEye99

This was actually used on my 2012 Sienna. Worked perfectly.

I just tried the same thing yesterday on a 2010 RX350 and it did NOT work. I ended up using a swivel which gave it enough to loosen it. I can see possibly getting a swivel 10mm in 1/4 ratchet and cutting/grinding it down a little to let it reach. Then pop on a 1/4 extension and you should clear it. I did have to jack it up by 1/2 an inch (didn't need to loosen the mount).

Something like this mike work: KD Tools SOC 10MM 1/4D 6PT UN

I'll be getting it and trying it.

EagleEye99

I actually got this: MAC MU6 1/4 inch drive 10mm 6 point flex Will let you know if this clears the subframe.

fmradioman

After much searching I found the key to removing and replacing the 1 (almost impossible to remove) transmission bolt WITHOUT jacking up the engine one bit! Even with this tool it was not exactly easy... but it can be done! I am including pics of the following. The wrench and wrench set that I used can be bought at Norther Tool & Equipment here is the link... https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...2539_200612539 that being said, as I was looking up the link I saw this OTHER set and they MAY also be of use (but I have not used or seen these in person so these are UNTESTED for this application) they are here... https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...5788_200615788

One key word for dealing with the bolt is... patience!

Reinstalling the bolt was not a piece of cake either... but with patience I was able to do it. The next time I do this I will use a drill to make the gasket hole for ONLY THE PROBLEM BOLT just slightly bigger than how the new rubber gasket comes new out of the box. This is to avoid the fact that when reinstalling without doing this you will find that the gasket provides a bit of resistance while trying to get the screw to seat and thread properly in this very limited space. And forget about being able to torque it to a specific Inch Lb.

I will upload pics of the following. The wrench and set, the trans bolt / length, what my clean pan looked like, The measuring jug I created for the complete fluid replacement, and picture of old transmission filter. >>> edit... tried to post pics and experienced techical difficulties. Sorry if they did not post... but I tried. FYI I was able post them on Toyota nation (if you can not find them here).


Side notes...

I used a flat head screw driver to assist with moving the wrench at times and ALSO assist with applying pressure to top of bolt when re installing it.

If this small wrench did not work I was going to TRY to grind down the 2 sides (only) if this Kobalt ratcheting wrench https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-10mm...Wrench/3387730 so it could (HOPEFULLY) clear the sides of the trans pan. this may ALSO work but I never needed to try it.

The original trans filter is Denso but I can not find it anywhere so I used the Oreilly house brand and they looked identical except Oreilly came with a rubber gasket instead of a coated metal one.

The crush washer is a DIFFERENT SIZE for the fill and overflow bolts.

I recommend a new Toyo GENUINE trans filter O ring. I had a temporary issue / problem when installing the filter / o ring. I tried to put the o ring on the trans and then slide the filter in but did not work well that way until I just put the o ring on the FILTER and inserted the filter into the trans.

I highly recommend for piece of mind buying an extra level tube at Toyota as they are plastic and relatively fragile. Also, reinstall it in the pan while it is off (just easier to do it that way than when under the car). If you are **** (like me) the cheapest / best torque wrench for the plastic tube (to be able to torque to 15 INCH lbs) can be bought at Home depot (online only). In Toyo service manual it says this torque level is crucial to be able to set the fluid level accurately. Is that for real??? I didn't want to risk my transmission on it os I torqued it but... You be the judge.

EagleEye99

The torque on the plastic fill tube doesn't really matter that much. Threads are so fine and torque will insignificantly impact its height for the level. Manuals are good but common sense always reign supreme. Regarding the O-ring, I also insert the O-ring onto the filter then slid the filter in. Have always done that (Sienna was done a year and a half ago w/o any issues).

fmradioman

I agree that no torque wrench is probably fine but (in my case) the plastic tube part did not just easily unscrew. It was sort of resistant a bit and intermittently as I unscrewed it. I'm not sure why it was that way... but it was. That being said I cleaned it off and re used it and, again, while screwing it in, it was not super smooth like I would expect (a few "false seats" of the tube). So I was happy to have and use the torque wrench in that situation.

Dwigt

Did it end up working for you?

I was looking at a very similar one
https://smile.amazon.com/TEKTON-Driv...38&sr=8-5&th=1

EagleEye99

Oh yeah. Piece of cake. Nifty tool to have. Key is slim profile both the wall and depth. The Tekton looks similar to the MAC swivel that I have, but you won't know till you try

Trianon

yrobles;8934267]For my second trany flush at 155K on the wife’s ES350, I decided to change out the ATF filter but I couldn’t find a how-to on any Lexus thread. A Camry thread provided some guidance. The ATF filter was quite dirty even though the car is garaged at home and at work and the wife drives it as if it was the last car on earth. The filter element is paper based, which may lead to the capture of more particulate matter than mesh filters. I will replace the filter again at 200k. The one hiccup is a single trany bolt that is very difficult to remove without raising the engine an inch or so. It turned out not to be such a difficult task.

Dirty filter


Tools:
6mm allen hex socket
1/4 drive sockets: 10mm
3/8 drive sockets: 10mm; 12mm; 19mm
1/2 inch sockets: 14mm deep (or 3/8 drive)
Ratchets to drive above sockets
4 to 6 inch 3/8 or 1/4 drive extensions (wobble preferred)
Inch/lb and foot/lb torque wrenches

Materials:
ATF filter -Beck/Arnley 044-0356 (made in Taiwan; $20)
Power Torque FK424 (Oreilly brand; does not include o-ring; made in China; $17)
Toyota trany filter 35330-48020 (Japan?; $70); gasket 35168-08010 ($10)
Note: WIX Part # 58010 does not fit the U660E Transmission.
Drain plug gasket - Toyota 90430-12008 ($1.25); or equivalent M12 gasket.
Filler plug gasket - 90430-18008 ($1.25); or Dorman 095-149 ($11 for pack of ten); or M18 equivalent
Filler level tube – Toyota 35125-07020 ($2; in case you damage it; it’s plastic and fragile)
Thread Sealant - Three Bond 1344 (Loctite/Permatex/JB Weld blue should suffice)
WS or compatible ATF Fluid. 3+ qts for drain/refill or 12 qts for full flush. (I flushed through 13 qts of Valvoline Max Life.)
Lots of paper towels and rags

Procedure:
1. Put the vehicle on stands. Put a level on the frame to level the car. Turn steering wheel to far left.

2. Remove plastic covers below engine and the splash guard inside driver side wheel well (covers the trany ATF filler plug.)

3. Drain ATF fluid. Drain plug takes 6mm allen wrench. If engine is cold, very little, if any fluid should come out. Insert allen wrench again to remove the plastic level tube; as you remove it ATF will start to drain, up to 3 qts. Wear rubber gloves; it’s going to get messy.

4. Loosen motor mounts. While ATF is draining, loosen the driver-side and front motor mounts. Don't forget to loosen dog-bone shaped mount on top, pass. side.
.
Driver-side: remove top 19mm nut through wheel well. It’s a tight fit; only my 3/8 drive 19mm socket would fit.


Front mount: loosen but do not remove three 14mm nuts from the bottom; one is hidden in the subframe requiring removal of a 2-inch plastic cover. Use 14mm deep socket on these three nuts.



5. Raise engine to remove PIA bolt. Re-install the pan drain bolt. Lift engine from area just aft of the trany pan. Raise just enough to be able to reach in and remove that one trany pan bolt – an inch or so should do it. Remove the bolt using 10mm ¼ drive socket and 4-inch long wobble extension. Alternatively, you can reach in from the side using an offset wrench.

6. Lower engine back down and remove the remaining pan bolts. Be careful removing the last bolts as pan may fall down. Pan will have about half a quart of ATF; pour it into the drain pan.

7. Trany pan cleanup. Clean the pan and two magnests with paper towels. I would avoid using chemical agents. Replace the magnets in the pan at the marked settings. Remove drain plug and reinstall the orange filler tube; hand-tight it (torque spec is 15 in/lb; my torque wrench starts at 20). Install drain plug, using a new washer if it needs one. You can torque it down now if you want, but will be easier once the pan is bolted in.





8. Replace ATF filter. Remove ATF filter; it is held in place with two bolts. An o-ring adds tension; wiggle and pull downward on filter to remove it. Be careful as some more ATF will pour out. (Be sure to remove the o-ring; it may stick to the valve body.) Lube the new o-ring with ATF and slide over snout of new filter. Gently wiggle filter back into place and re-install the filter bolts. Torque to 8 ft/lbs (or 96 in/lbs).



9. Optional step: It will make life easier if you replace two or three trany bolts with stud bolts. They will serve as guide pins when installing the pan and gasket. I used 25mm studs and inserted ten threads into the trany using high strength thread locker. The bolts are M6-1.0.



10. Install trany pan/filter. Wipe dry and clean the gasket and gasket mounting surfaces. Install the trany pan and bolts, with threadlocker sealant, but leave loose enough to move pan. Raise engine to install PIA bolt. Be careful not to cross-thread the bolt. (That’s why I replaced this bolt with a stud bolt.) Once the PIA bolt is in, snug all the bolts and tighten to spec using a criss-cross pattern. Torque spec is 66 in/lb.; however, that’s with the .65mm thick OEM pan gasket. In my opinion, this is too high for a rubber/cork gasket. The oil pan and trany spec for my other Toyota products with a rubber gasket is 35 in/lb. That’s what I used and have had no leaks after two years (as of 7/11/17).

11. Torque the drain plug to 15 ft/lb. and lower the engine.

12. Re-tighten engine mounts’ nuts. Torque for nut on driver-side motor mount is 70 ft/lb. I could not find torque specks on the three nuts on the front engine mount - 35 ft/lb felt good. Don't forget the dog-bone strut on top.

13. Complete the drain/refill procedure, or proceed with the trany flush procedure. I would wait a week or two to check for leaks before re-installing the plastic covers.[/QUOTE]

Trianon

I am going to change transmission filter in RX350 and has to lift engine too to get access to the pan bolt that is blocked by sub frame. Could you explain or show the picture of dog-bone shaped mount on top of the passanger side.