First time lexus owner and first time getting it detailed questions.
05-12-15, 12:02 PM
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First time lexus owner and first time getting it detailed questions.
I've got an 09' Obsidian and it has a few scratches from people walking by and one scuff on the passenger from someone opening their door onto mine (Not a scratch, vertical scuff marks). Also a knick or two near my tires probably from rocks, they're probably a mili sized in rust so I covered it with some clear coat nail polish to prevent anymore rusting. So I read that I could get the exterior fully detailed to maybe lessen the appearence of the scratches and get rid of my swirl marks. I made an appointment at ---> http://www.yelp.com/biz/jo-jos-profe...g-philadelphia
I was wondering if polishing and the five hour process that they do onto a Obsidian lexus would be harmful after a few months? I believe they do a 7 step detailing process which includes clay bars, compounding, wax, polish and seal for about $130. I'm worried the shine will wear off and my clear coat will get dull after a few months.. How long does detailing last and how often should I get it? Does detailing involve polishing down some clear coat? I really do not know much about cars, so I'm sorry for the multitude of silly questions. Thank you!
I was wondering if polishing and the five hour process that they do onto a Obsidian lexus would be harmful after a few months? I believe they do a 7 step detailing process which includes clay bars, compounding, wax, polish and seal for about $130. I'm worried the shine will wear off and my clear coat will get dull after a few months.. How long does detailing last and how often should I get it? Does detailing involve polishing down some clear coat? I really do not know much about cars, so I'm sorry for the multitude of silly questions. Thank you!
05-12-15, 03:23 PM
#2
Lexus Test Driver
It should go in this order:
*Wash it with a soap to remove any dirt and previous wax. Dawn is usually preferred for this step, as it does a good job for getting everything off. Otherwise, stay away from repetitive use of dish soap.
*Claybar: there are tiny pores in the clear coat that fill up with dirt and other debris. Using a claybar picks these up so you aren't marring the paint as you polish. This step also helps with getting that awesome mirror effect
*Polishing: Scratches and swirls are scratches on the top surface of the paint(to clarify, clear coat is simply paint with no pigment). In order to removed those you must use a mild abrasive to remove them, which does remove a minuscule amount of the clear coat. However, the abrasive is so mild and is used in stages that it gets all the microscopic and near-microscopic(swirls) scratches out. Once you have done this properly, you should have a mirror finish on the paint.
*Waxing: this is the sealing layer. It provides a barrier for your clear coat against elements and UV rays. It also helps with water beading on the surface and makes repeat washes much easier. Again, don't use dish soap when washing the car. Buy special auto soap, it will make all the difference.
There should be zero hazing of the clear coat unless it was already on the edge and/or the detailer does a poor job. The durability of the wax depends on how many times you wash it(and if you do it with quality equipment and the proper steps, like two bucket method and microfiber towels), how harsh the outside elements are, and the type of wax/coating they use. Some people get a year out of a detail, but that's not going to be true of every detailing job.
Finally, I would have the rust chips checked out. The only way to truly stop the rust is by removing it. Coating it with clear coat simply puts a coat over it and may simply slow the effects, but the oxidation will continue. Just an FYI.
*Wash it with a soap to remove any dirt and previous wax. Dawn is usually preferred for this step, as it does a good job for getting everything off. Otherwise, stay away from repetitive use of dish soap.
*Claybar: there are tiny pores in the clear coat that fill up with dirt and other debris. Using a claybar picks these up so you aren't marring the paint as you polish. This step also helps with getting that awesome mirror effect
*Polishing: Scratches and swirls are scratches on the top surface of the paint(to clarify, clear coat is simply paint with no pigment). In order to removed those you must use a mild abrasive to remove them, which does remove a minuscule amount of the clear coat. However, the abrasive is so mild and is used in stages that it gets all the microscopic and near-microscopic(swirls) scratches out. Once you have done this properly, you should have a mirror finish on the paint.
*Waxing: this is the sealing layer. It provides a barrier for your clear coat against elements and UV rays. It also helps with water beading on the surface and makes repeat washes much easier. Again, don't use dish soap when washing the car. Buy special auto soap, it will make all the difference.
There should be zero hazing of the clear coat unless it was already on the edge and/or the detailer does a poor job. The durability of the wax depends on how many times you wash it(and if you do it with quality equipment and the proper steps, like two bucket method and microfiber towels), how harsh the outside elements are, and the type of wax/coating they use. Some people get a year out of a detail, but that's not going to be true of every detailing job.
Finally, I would have the rust chips checked out. The only way to truly stop the rust is by removing it. Coating it with clear coat simply puts a coat over it and may simply slow the effects, but the oxidation will continue. Just an FYI.
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