2007 Lexus ES with 240k miles
05-14-17, 04:09 PM
#16
perhas if you offer 4200 then you can get it for 4500. Since you are not fixated on specific make or model, you have nothing to louse.
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Franks87 (05-14-17)
05-14-17, 04:40 PM
#17
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Cant demand spotless service service details on a car with 240k miles. He should be glad that car was maintained for most part at the dealer and that information is available. I would not br surprised dealer lied about leak or exaguarated, when car gets old there are always oil spots around timing chain cover. Its a car with 240k miles, take it for what its worth or move on.
I revised the history:
- Catalyst bank 2 not yet replaced...hopefully won't be soon.
- A SHAFT, DRIVE AXLE (FRONT) - REPLACE. PASSENGER SIDE AXLE CLICKING AND EVIDENCE OF BOTH BOOTS LEAKI --> CUSTOMER DECLINED.
Kinda OCD about this car for the past 24 hours. LOL
05-14-17, 06:53 PM
#18
Axle replacement is 2 hours of labor on each side. Parts range from about $80 for a remanufactured axle to $650 for an oem factory one. Just a fyi. They are sold as halves so you'll need to buy one for each side if replacing both.
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Franks87 (05-15-17)
05-14-17, 10:17 PM
#19
catalyst bank two if it's the cat you can get an OEM Manifold with the cat for around 600-700 if you know where to look or an aftermarket for 350 to 450 then I think about 200-300 for the labor
that will be the left side of engine wich is the front side near the radiator I am replacing the right side on mine and that the rear side near firewall going to be about 1000 after labor
this is sounding more like not a bargain 5,000 seems about retail price now for a car that needs around 1500 to 2500 worth of work to it which is probably what the dealership quoted him for the work it needs so your really not getting a bargain at 5,000 your paying FMV value less the cost of repairs.
if they accept the 4200 offer than that would be nice if not i would walk away
that will be the left side of engine wich is the front side near the radiator I am replacing the right side on mine and that the rear side near firewall going to be about 1000 after labor
this is sounding more like not a bargain 5,000 seems about retail price now for a car that needs around 1500 to 2500 worth of work to it which is probably what the dealership quoted him for the work it needs so your really not getting a bargain at 5,000 your paying FMV value less the cost of repairs.
if they accept the 4200 offer than that would be nice if not i would walk away
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Franks87 (05-15-17)
05-15-17, 02:39 AM
#20
catalyst bank two if it's the cat you can get an OEM Manifold with the cat for around 600-700 if you know where to look or an aftermarket for 350 to 450 then I think about 200-300 for the labor
that will be the left side of engine wich is the front side near the radiator I am replacing the right side on mine and that the rear side near firewall going to be about 1000 after labor
this is sounding more like not a bargain 5,000 seems about retail price now for a car that needs around 1500 to 2500 worth of work to it which is probably what the dealership quoted him for the work it needs so your really not getting a bargain at 5,000 your paying FMV value less the cost of repairs.
if they accept the 4200 offer than that would be nice if not i would walk away
that will be the left side of engine wich is the front side near the radiator I am replacing the right side on mine and that the rear side near firewall going to be about 1000 after labor
this is sounding more like not a bargain 5,000 seems about retail price now for a car that needs around 1500 to 2500 worth of work to it which is probably what the dealership quoted him for the work it needs so your really not getting a bargain at 5,000 your paying FMV value less the cost of repairs.
if they accept the 4200 offer than that would be nice if not i would walk away
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Franks87 (05-15-17)
05-15-17, 05:23 AM
#21
Driver School Candidate
Just because the car has been listed for a while, it does not mean it is a lemon. Sadly, 70% of Americans don't even have $1000 dollars cash in savings, much less $5000, so it takes time to sell a car when it is an all cash transaction. I just bought a 2004 ES330 with 134K miles, I paid cash for it and this car has been by far the best car I have ever owned.
If I were you, I would consider buying an older ES 300/330 model with less miles- I have seen some good looking ones with 100-150 K miles in the 4-6K range. You could get easily 10 more years out of a car like this versus buying a newer model with that many miles. Just my opinion!
If I were you, I would consider buying an older ES 300/330 model with less miles- I have seen some good looking ones with 100-150 K miles in the 4-6K range. You could get easily 10 more years out of a car like this versus buying a newer model with that many miles. Just my opinion!
Last edited by iowaman; 05-15-17 at 05:30 AM.
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Franks87 (05-15-17)
05-15-17, 12:56 PM
#22
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Just because the car has been listed for a while, it does not mean it is a lemon. Sadly, 70% of Americans don't even have $1000 dollars cash in savings, much less $5000, so it takes time to sell a car when it is an all cash transaction. I just bought a 2004 ES330 with 134K miles, I paid cash for it and this car has been by far the best car I have ever owned.
If I were you, I would consider buying an older ES 300/330 model with less miles- I have seen some good looking ones with 100-150 K miles in the 4-6K range. You could get easily 10 more years out of a car like this versus buying a newer model with that many miles. Just my opinion!
If I were you, I would consider buying an older ES 300/330 model with less miles- I have seen some good looking ones with 100-150 K miles in the 4-6K range. You could get easily 10 more years out of a car like this versus buying a newer model with that many miles. Just my opinion!
May be stepping it up a little more with a lower mileage clean 2006 ES330- 130k miles
http://tovimotors.com/2006-Lexus-ES3...2/Details.aspx
Last edited by Franks87; 05-15-17 at 01:06 PM.
05-15-17, 01:53 PM
#24
Lexus Champion
05-15-17, 02:32 PM
#25
Driver School Candidate
I didn't care much about cars until I test drove my 2004 ES330. I took a trip to Oregon recently and rented a 2017 Nissan Maxima- does not even come close to the comfort and performance of my 13 year old Lexus- I think it is really hard to go back to a Toyota, Honda or Nissan after you get used to a Lexus.
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Franks87 (05-17-17)
05-15-17, 02:48 PM
#26
for a first time driver, it's hard to beat a civic. Reliable, good on gas, and at least I wouldn't care if it got banged up (which is likely to happen). If you want something bigger, a Camry or Accord works. I'm not saying this ES350 is a bad car, but in this situation, it probably isn't the ideal choice.
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Franks87 (05-17-17)
05-17-17, 07:32 AM
#27
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
for a first time driver, it's hard to beat a civic. Reliable, good on gas, and at least I wouldn't care if it got banged up (which is likely to happen). If you want something bigger, a Camry or Accord works. I'm not saying this ES350 is a bad car, but in this situation, it probably isn't the ideal choice.
There was a local storm nearby so we got to a Toyota dealer and bough a hail damage (kinda ill looking on the roof + pristine interior ) 2011 Avalon Limited with 110k miles for $7500 cash OTD- was listed at $14k ( certified) just before the HAIL. lol.
Dealer made some big $$$$ from insurance Co ( or deductible was too high for them to file a claim ???) and decided not to fix it but selling it AS-IS.
Carfax is clean, clean title after the purchase and I am sure it will be a safe box for her to drive in as the first car, Insurance still cover for collison/ personal injury not for further HAIL until damage gets repaired from our pocket.
We take that. Problem solved.
Thanks again and see you guys when I trade my Camry and get a CPO lexus. Not anytime soon tho.
Last edited by Franks87; 05-17-17 at 08:04 AM.
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