ES - 5th Gen (2007-2012) Discussion topics related to 2007+ ES350

Car vibrates/shakes during acceleration

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Old 07-13-20, 01:09 PM
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ESh
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Which aftermarket axles are OK? TRQ? Cardone?
Old 07-27-20, 10:13 AM
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ff54976
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I have a 2010 es350. Have the same problem, the car shakes when accelerating and not when decelerating. The shake feels like the front wheels are moving left to right, like turning a salt shaker horizontally and shake it back and forth. I have rebuilt the front axels, replaced the motor mounts(all of them), replaced rotors with oe, new michelin tires and alighment. Still have the same problem. Here lately ive noticed my idle is rougher. Any advice would be appreciated!!
Old 07-28-20, 01:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ff54976
I have a 2010 es350. Have the same problem, the car shakes when accelerating and not when decelerating. The shake feels like the front wheels are moving left to right, like turning a salt shaker horizontally and shake it back and forth. I have rebuilt the front axels, replaced the motor mounts(all of them), replaced rotors with oe, new michelin tires and alighment. Still have the same problem. Here lately ive noticed my idle is rougher. Any advice would be appreciated!!
Some torque-steer is normal during hard acceleration. Why did you rebuild your axles vs replacing with lifetime, new axles? They're only about $100 a pop. Did you check your axle shafts for run-out when you rebuilt them?

A rough idle can be due to a dirty mass air flow sensor, a dirty throttle body, a torn or loose air intake hose/duct, a leaking vacuum line, or any other number of things that can cause a vacuum leak. Idle the engine and listen for a sucking/hissing noise. To pinpoint it, you can use a sawed-off garden hose (one end in your ear, the other moved around the suspected area).
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Old 07-28-20, 02:59 PM
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I already ordered some new axels. Everything I keep seeing leads back to axels. Plus I can’t say if the rebuilder did a good job so with new ones I know 100%

Ill post after I get the new ones on. Does brand make any difference on axels? I ordered some aftermarket
Old 07-28-20, 03:33 PM
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I had some vibrations under acceleration, I bought the tripods and the boots. I replaced them with no change. After I discovered that my wheel was really bent, I fixed it and now there's no vibration at all.
Old 07-28-20, 03:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ff54976
Does brand make any difference on axels? I ordered some aftermarket
The Carquest lifetime replacements (linked in post #2) look good to me.
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atilla19 (08-26-20)
Old 07-28-20, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by LjeksesES
I had some vibrations under acceleration, I bought the tripods and the boots. I replaced them with no change. After I discovered that my wheel was really bent, I fixed it and now there's no vibration at all.
That's interesting...I would have assumed a bent wheel would vibrate, at speed, regardless of acceleration, de-acceleration or even coasting. Good to know!
Old 08-26-20, 12:18 PM
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atilla19
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Default ES350 acceleration vibration gone with new axle

Originally Posted by LjeksesES
That shaft is shot. That's why you have that vibration.
Per LjeksesES, I replaced the moving passenger axle and the car vibration is gone. Per Wilson2000, I went with the Carquest. Thanks to both and all the other input. The youtube
is fantastic, though the axle nut was very stuck, and the shock nut broke my breaker bar.
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Old 08-26-20, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by atilla19
... the axle nut was very stuck, and the shock nut broke my breaker bar.
Excellent...I'm glad you got rid of the vibration and I hope the replacement axle lasts a lifetime!

Advice for future frozen nuts...Rather than break your tools, soak the treads of a stuck fastener overnight with multiple applications of Liquid Wrench. If it is still stuck, hit it with a torch if feasible. Or, try hammer blows to your breaker bar. Many times the shock of a hammer blow will break loose a nut that constant, progressively stronger torque won't. That's how impact drivers work...weights inside the driver gun provide a barrage of machine-gun-speed impact blows upon pulling the trigger. If you can afford a compressor and good air-impact wrench (as seen in the video), all your automotive repairs will become easier!
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Old 08-26-20, 08:04 PM
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Good advice on tools and hammers and penetrating oil and torch. I've only done a Toyota axle once before, and the big nuts yielded to my big old 150ft-lb impact driver and breaker bar, so I expected the same. I did not do penetrating oil the day before, just when things got ugly. So with perfect hindsight, I just bought an 1100ft-lb 2-hammer for the next time, and would advise anyone doing this job to save the hassle and get one ahead.
Old 08-27-20, 08:23 PM
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Question for the group, can bad axles create a vibration even if the car is not accelerating? For example, at 45mph and also at 65-80? Or would that be something else?
Old 08-28-20, 01:41 AM
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I think that something else. Like a bent wheel or bad/non balanced tire.
Old 08-28-20, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Hayk
Question for the group, can bad axles create a vibration even if the car is not accelerating? For example, at 45mph and also at 65-80? Or would that be something else?
Anything that spins and becomes worn and out of balance can cause vibration at some speeds and not others. I agree that a worn tire or bent wheel is the most common cause of vibrations at different speeds, but I wouldn't rule out an axle either. Worn axles can pose a variety of symptoms under a variety of conditions, but most common is vibration under acceleration/de-acceleration, or clunking noises when turning, or reversing, all felt in the steering wheel.
Old 08-31-20, 12:13 PM
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I changed my axels and it fixed the shaking!
Old 01-01-21, 12:41 PM
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2007 ES 350 130K miles. The car would shake violently at constant speed - did not matter the speed - usually on the highway. It would happen intermittently. When I decelerated it would stop. After reading this forum this past spring, I decided to have my mechanic replace the axles, even though he could not get the problem to repeat. My small town mechanic did the whole job for $300.00 (labor and parts) and it solved the problem. Hope this helps someone.


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