ES - 5th Gen (2007-2012) Discussion topics related to 2007+ ES350

Belt tensioner replacement

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Old 09-15-18, 01:42 AM
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Hoobash
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Default Belt tensioner replacement

anyone had to deal with this? I was told it’s a major repair and cost $1200 does ac compressor really need to be removed? I consider this to be a really bad design for a part that wears I am very unhappy
Old 09-15-18, 10:31 AM
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nevernu
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Old 09-15-18, 04:44 PM
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ellocovg
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Sheesh that sucks, Good to know hope mine never goes.
Old 09-16-18, 03:07 AM
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chuyrobles
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Is the tensioner bad or is it just the bearing that needs replacing? The bearing can be replaced but I do not know what size the ES350 takes. You'll have to unbolt the bearing and press out the bearing. I'm pretty sure the bolt is reverse-threaded. Bearing will be less than $30. I've replaced the tensioner pulley bearing in my V6 Tacoma and daughter's I4 Camry.
Old 09-23-18, 10:20 PM
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Took the tensioner pulley out as part of the water pump install and decided to rake it apart to see what bearing it has. Turns out it has two bearings, size 12X40X17 (may sell as a 6203-2RS) with a pressed in reducer. It as Sunday and no one, locally, had that bearing size in stock. But, what do you know, I had an AC Delco bearing #36174 (for a V6 07 Tacoma Idler #1) and it fit perfectly; it even comes with a reducer, but you'll need the OEM one if you are getting the two bearings.

Old 09-24-18, 04:00 AM
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Hoobash
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The question is can just the pulley be taken out much easier then replacing the whole belt tensioner
Old 09-24-18, 04:01 AM
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Yes its the bearing
Old 09-24-18, 08:05 AM
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The AC compressor has to be removed and it’s much easier and 20 times cheaper to replace only the bearing.
Old 09-24-18, 08:45 AM
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The bearing can be replaced without removing the ac compresser?
Old 09-24-18, 08:39 PM
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chuyrobles
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Yes, once the belt is off, turn the tensioner pulley bolt clockwise to remove. Unless you have small hands, you will likely have to remove/install from the bottom, but you can easily break free the bolt from the top. 14mm socket and breaker bar are the only tools you need to remove the pulley. To remove the bearings, a press comes in handy, but you'll find videos of folks using a sledge hammer to remove the bearings. Or buy the referenced ACDelco pulley. Gates uses the same numbering system; so, you can buy that one if it's more affordable, part# 36174.

Last edited by chuyrobles; 09-24-18 at 09:02 PM. Reason: more info
Old 09-24-18, 09:50 PM
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chuyrobles
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Here is a pic of the new bearing installed. It lines up perfectly and the bearing is same width as OEM - 24mm. I goofed on the brand; it's actually a Gates pulley - I had first looked into the ACDelco boxes when looking to see if any of the pulleys would fit. But, if you check the interchange part # for either brand, you'll see Gates and ACDelco use the same part #'s.


Old 09-25-18, 02:57 AM
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Hoobash
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If I am going to have to do it from the bottom do I need a lift? I have access to a press at my bike shop really good friends with those guys
Old 09-27-18, 02:00 AM
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chuyrobles
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You need a lift to remove the tire and plastic engine guard behind the tire. Matter of fact, all the pulleys can be reached from the bottom easier than through the top. The highest idler pulley, below the thermostat housing is the trickiest and probably easier to unscrew from the top, but easier removed through the bottom.
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