Ill take any suggestion at this point. I tried switching it from park to Drive three times and no luck. Car still wouldn't start.

 

Ive seen this video before. I have multi reader, but I don't know how to read the starter relay fuse like he does.

 

Can you verify that the steering wheel will lock when the car is completely off? I know you've opened the door a few times, but you can try reinitializing the steering lock ECU. (Make sure the DCC fuse is installed, btw). Put shift in 'P' -> open and close driver's side door -> brake -> press Start/Stop switch.

If this doesn't work, there's a TSB for an updated Start/Stop switch for this exact problem. I'm not sure if you know if the start/stop switch has been replaced before, but if you're unsure, send me your VIN and I can look up the service history for you.

 

I am not sure if it has been replaced or not. Vin: JTHBJ4G372019687

I tried your steps above. I had the car off and had the gear in Park. I opened and closed the driver door. Hit the brake and pressure the push button start. The wheel did not lock. It turned freely.

 

Can you retry entering your VIN? That's only 16 digits, thanks

Also, does your interior lights come on when the door is open? And if you close the door, do lights turn off by themselves? The courtesy switch may not be seeing the door open/close if not.

 

Vin: JTHBJ46G372019687
The interior lights do come on when the door is open and they turn off after the door is closed for a period of time.

 

try this may help


also do u get any light on the start/stop switch when u have it in park and step on brake pedal

also any codes thrown?

 

You use the physical key to unlock the door? This is not typical. Does the fob lock and unlock the doors properly?

I'm sorry you spent so much $ on replacing so many parts that didn't fix it. I worry that you got a bad part, or maybe you missed something in your replacement procedure. Perhaps you have a bad connection. Recheck all your connectors and make sure you don't have any bent pins/receptacles in each connector. Pay particular attention to non-battery side of of your battery cables (as you said the battery side is OK). I had a starting issue once that turned out to be a lose connection where the battery ground cable bolts to the body. Check all your fuses and relays in the starting circuit, if you have the reference material (shop manual) needed that identifies and gives detailed troubleshooting info. Good luck and let us know when you fix it and how you fixed it.

 

I used the physical key when the battery was dead. That was early last week. Since I have replaced the car battery with a new battery, the key fob and unlocking car with door handle works.

I checked all fuses/relays yesterday and they where not blown and provide the right voltage. I took the starter off today and used jumper cables to connect the battery to the starter while using a screwdriver. Starter turned on with no problem. I made sure to reconnect the starter properly and tighten the bolts enough. I had a mechanic put the alternator on and I watched him the entire time to make sure nothing wasn't missing or broken. All was done properly. The battery turns the interior lights, exterior light on and they don't go dim. The cables look fine. I can't tell anything bent or broken. I replaced the starter relay yesterday out of concerns that it could be that part. Still no progress.

The only thing that happens is when I depress the brake and push the "Stop/Start" button is it will not turn over. I've also tried the process of disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes and making sure the car is in park. Open and close the door. Depress the brake and press the "Start/Stop" button to re-initialization procedure for the steering lock ECU. Still nothing has worked.

I do have a question. I looked at my battery and did some research on it. This battery has a CCA of 585. It says its a fit for the 07 Lexus ES350, but there are other batteries with higher CCA? Would that be too low to start the car even though battery is brand new?

 

The 585 CCA battery should be fine as long as it is charged and reading above 12 volts. Your symptoms are pointing to some sort of fault in the starting circuit. An earlier poster recommended you move the shifter, which was a good suggestion (even though it didn't fix it) as the switch that tells the ECU the car is park or neutral can become faulty and prevent starting.

Was there anything else that led-up to your starting issue? Did this all begin after you replaced the battery? Did you do any jump starting that could have cause a voltage spike? Modern cars are sometimes finicky about jump starting as sensitive electronics are prone to damage from voltage spikes. Hopefully you haven't fried any of your electronic modules as they are expensive to replace and you already have a lot invested in this repair.

Your only hope may be to have a dealer or independent troubleshoot it for you, but that won't be cheap either considering you'll have to tow it.

 

The battery was reading 12 volts. So im glad that isnt the issue. I have moved the gear from P to D multiple times and tried to start it. I even left it in N and see what the dash tells me. It said, "Place shift to P to start". So I would like to think that the gear shifter isn't the problem. I know that before this all happened, I had some issues with it trying to start. It would click and I would have to hit the "Start/Stop" button a couple of times to get it to start. This went on for about two months. Before the car died on me, I changed 3,5,6 spark plugs and coils because I got a faulty code for misfiring.

If having it towed is my only option, I guess Ill have to do it. Id hate to get rid of the car because it drove like a champ.

 

I don't think you'll have to get rid of your ES. You can fix it, it might just cost you more $ than you expected.

The fact that you were having starting issues prior to the starting circuit crapping-out altogether is interesting. Did you need to resort to jump starting? Again, if so, I would be concerned that some of your electronics fried. Or, hopefully, the whole issue is the result of a bad connection in the circuit. Try re-seating all of your harness connectors involved in the starting circuit, even those you didn't disturb when doing your repair work, replacing parts.

Sorry I can't do more without hands-on involvement. Keep thinking about what may have led up to the problem as that will help the mechanic you take it to. For instance, was the vehicle ever exposed to deep water; any aftermarket mods or parts; any prior electronic gremlins?

 

Does you check engine light come on if you hit the start switch twice without holding the gas pedal?

Have you tried checking the 30amp fuse that's part of the Starter circuit (@ 3:22 in the previously mentioned YouTube video)?

Have you tried jumping the starter relay with a piece of wire?

Are you able to check for power at the copper contacts of the fuse box where the relay sits while depressing the start button? This was done with a test light in the video.

Are you able to check for power at the starter solenoid while jumping the starter relay contacts?

A good diagnostic tool that could make this easier for you is a set of diagnostic relays that you can easily control from under the hood. Check this out

 

I did have to jump it a couple of times. I have a Beatit 1080mAh/39.96WH Output 12v Jump starter that I used when I needed a jump.
I know the car was never exposed to any deepwater and no aftermarket mods where put on the car.