2008 ES 350 Hesitation upon Start up
01-04-21, 11:01 AM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
2008 ES 350 Hesitation upon Start up
I will start off by saying, I'm completely new to the forums and this is my first Lexus (2008 ES 350 @ 55k miles)
Well taken care of by an old lady who couldn't drive anymore, had all the records from Lexus, and even got the water pump replaced and the brake master cylinder along with the brakes, most of the maintenance other then the ATF was done already, and I will be soon performing a transmission pan drop along with a full fluid exchange using the return hose because the car shifts and hesitate until the its warmed up, I do plan to use Maxlife ATF. I also own a 2014 Avalon with the same engine and transmission, and that car has 98K but it shifts flawlessly. I'm not so sure WS is a good ATF.
Back to the issue that just started 1.5 weeks ago.
I thought the battery that came along with the car was the issue when the first startup hesitation occurred its an Interstate MTP-24F with 1000 CA and 800 CCA, I fully charged that battery using a NOCO battery tender, and it took 3 days and the battery was back to full health, but I decided since this was my wife's car, I would put a new battery in it to be on the safe side, I installed a new EverStart Maxx 24F from Walmart because it's affordable and its the only store easily available for warranty purposes out here in Laramie, WY. The temperature dropped to 15F and when I went to start the car, the same hesitation that occurred with the old battery happened, I blamed the new battery and discussed my options with Walmart and they said they would have to test it before giving me a new battery. I went home and tested the car multiple times and the same 1-2 hesitation during start up continued, then I reinstalled the old Interstate battery and the startup hesitation continued, I charged both the batteries and they are both at full charge within 10-20 minutes, the same batteries I tested in my Avalon and the car starts right up without any issues, so battery doesn't seem to be the issues, I looked at the battery terminals, they look good to me (but I don't know how to verify that).
I decided to clean the MAF and it came out the cleanest looking MAF I have ever seen, and I have seen some very dirty ones, I cleaned it anyways, and the Start up hesitation issue continued, its only 1-2 seconds and the vehicle starts, once it actually took 4 different tries to get the car to start.
I thought it could be the Coolant temperature sensor, as I have had that issue before in an older Toyota vehicle, I did a WOT(wide open throttle) to see if the car would start sooner, I tried it twice but couldn't really tell as the vehicle maybe started slight faster but maybe not. I'm not so sure its the coolant temperature sensor, but I could be wrong.
Two things of note, the vehicle radio doesn't work(previous owner mentioned it) but I haven't checked it as I just play my own music, and after reinstalling the battery after 3-4 days the keyless entry was struggling to be recognized, so it wouldn't lock or unlock the doors but somehow the vehicle would start up, after a long drive, the keyless entry started to function as intended. I checked both the key fob batteries, and they both tested at 3.01 volts so they seem to be good.
There are no CEL and it drivers perfectly fine except the terrible cold performance of the transmission.
I googled the issue and couldn't really find anything definitive, but this link (https://forums.edmunds.com/discussio...rting-problems) has various reason why people had these issues, but looking at everything from that link, it would cost too much to start fixing about everything, would anyone happen to know how I could possibly diagnose this issue other then taking it to a Lexus dealer as according to the posts, it seems they aren't very sure until they replace about everything.
Well taken care of by an old lady who couldn't drive anymore, had all the records from Lexus, and even got the water pump replaced and the brake master cylinder along with the brakes, most of the maintenance other then the ATF was done already, and I will be soon performing a transmission pan drop along with a full fluid exchange using the return hose because the car shifts and hesitate until the its warmed up, I do plan to use Maxlife ATF. I also own a 2014 Avalon with the same engine and transmission, and that car has 98K but it shifts flawlessly. I'm not so sure WS is a good ATF.
Back to the issue that just started 1.5 weeks ago.
I thought the battery that came along with the car was the issue when the first startup hesitation occurred its an Interstate MTP-24F with 1000 CA and 800 CCA, I fully charged that battery using a NOCO battery tender, and it took 3 days and the battery was back to full health, but I decided since this was my wife's car, I would put a new battery in it to be on the safe side, I installed a new EverStart Maxx 24F from Walmart because it's affordable and its the only store easily available for warranty purposes out here in Laramie, WY. The temperature dropped to 15F and when I went to start the car, the same hesitation that occurred with the old battery happened, I blamed the new battery and discussed my options with Walmart and they said they would have to test it before giving me a new battery. I went home and tested the car multiple times and the same 1-2 hesitation during start up continued, then I reinstalled the old Interstate battery and the startup hesitation continued, I charged both the batteries and they are both at full charge within 10-20 minutes, the same batteries I tested in my Avalon and the car starts right up without any issues, so battery doesn't seem to be the issues, I looked at the battery terminals, they look good to me (but I don't know how to verify that).
I decided to clean the MAF and it came out the cleanest looking MAF I have ever seen, and I have seen some very dirty ones, I cleaned it anyways, and the Start up hesitation issue continued, its only 1-2 seconds and the vehicle starts, once it actually took 4 different tries to get the car to start.
I thought it could be the Coolant temperature sensor, as I have had that issue before in an older Toyota vehicle, I did a WOT(wide open throttle) to see if the car would start sooner, I tried it twice but couldn't really tell as the vehicle maybe started slight faster but maybe not. I'm not so sure its the coolant temperature sensor, but I could be wrong.
Two things of note, the vehicle radio doesn't work(previous owner mentioned it) but I haven't checked it as I just play my own music, and after reinstalling the battery after 3-4 days the keyless entry was struggling to be recognized, so it wouldn't lock or unlock the doors but somehow the vehicle would start up, after a long drive, the keyless entry started to function as intended. I checked both the key fob batteries, and they both tested at 3.01 volts so they seem to be good.
There are no CEL and it drivers perfectly fine except the terrible cold performance of the transmission.
I googled the issue and couldn't really find anything definitive, but this link (https://forums.edmunds.com/discussio...rting-problems) has various reason why people had these issues, but looking at everything from that link, it would cost too much to start fixing about everything, would anyone happen to know how I could possibly diagnose this issue other then taking it to a Lexus dealer as according to the posts, it seems they aren't very sure until they replace about everything.
Last edited by AKhan87; 01-04-21 at 12:19 PM.
01-04-21, 11:33 AM
#2
So, the cars cranks longer and after it starts it runs OK?
01-04-21, 12:20 PM
#4
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
01-04-21, 01:37 PM
#6
I would measure the fuel pressure on the rail after you turn the car off and a couple of hours later. If the pressure drops then the problem is the non-return valve which is located on the fuel filter assembly in the tank.
Try this, with the engine cold press the start/stop button twice without pressing the brake pedal, leave it like that a couple of seconds and then repeat the process 2-3 times for 4-5 minutes, then try to start the engine.
01-04-21, 06:20 PM
#7
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I would measure the fuel pressure on the rail after you turn the car off and a couple of hours later. If the pressure drops then the problem is the non-return valve which is located on the fuel filter assembly in the tank.
Try this, with the engine cold press the start/stop button twice without pressing the brake pedal, leave it like that a couple of seconds and then repeat the process 2-3 times for 4-5 minutes, then try to start the engine.
Try this, with the engine cold press the start/stop button twice without pressing the brake pedal, leave it like that a couple of seconds and then repeat the process 2-3 times for 4-5 minutes, then try to start the engine.
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ESh (01-05-21)
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01-05-21, 02:45 PM
#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
how do I upload a video that I made of the start up, the start up was as usual, slight struggle and it would start, and the RPMs are too low as well but drives perfectly.
Last edited by AKhan87; 01-05-21 at 02:50 PM.
01-05-21, 03:12 PM
#9
Stremable or youtube.
01-05-21, 06:33 PM
#10
I will start off by saying, I'm completely new to the forums and this is my first Lexus (2008 ES 350 @ 55k miles)
Well taken care of by an old lady who couldn't drive anymore, had all the records from Lexus, and even got the water pump replaced and the brake master cylinder along with the brakes, most of the maintenance other then the ATF was done already, and I will be soon performing a transmission pan drop along with a full fluid exchange using the return hose because the car shifts and hesitate until the its warmed up, I do plan to use Maxlife ATF. I also own a 2014 Avalon with the same engine and transmission, and that car has 98K but it shifts flawlessly. I'm not so sure WS is a good ATF.
Back to the issue that just started 1.5 weeks ago.
I thought the battery that came along with the car was the issue when the first startup hesitation occurred its an Interstate MTP-24F with 1000 CA and 800 CCA, I fully charged that battery using a NOCO battery tender, and it took 3 days and the battery was back to full health, but I decided since this was my wife's car, I would put a new battery in it to be on the safe side, I installed a new EverStart Maxx 24F from Walmart because it's affordable and its the only store easily available for warranty purposes out here in Laramie, WY. The temperature dropped to 15F and when I went to start the car, the same hesitation that occurred with the old battery happened, I blamed the new battery and discussed my options with Walmart and they said they would have to test it before giving me a new battery. I went home and tested the car multiple times and the same 1-2 hesitation during start up continued, then I reinstalled the old Interstate battery and the startup hesitation continued, I charged both the batteries and they are both at full charge within 10-20 minutes, the same batteries I tested in my Avalon and the car starts right up without any issues, so battery doesn't seem to be the issues, I looked at the battery terminals, they look good to me (but I don't know how to verify that).
I decided to clean the MAF and it came out the cleanest looking MAF I have ever seen, and I have seen some very dirty ones, I cleaned it anyways, and the Start up hesitation issue continued, its only 1-2 seconds and the vehicle starts, once it actually took 4 different tries to get the car to start.
I thought it could be the Coolant temperature sensor, as I have had that issue before in an older Toyota vehicle, I did a WOT(wide open throttle) to see if the car would start sooner, I tried it twice but couldn't really tell as the vehicle maybe started slight faster but maybe not. I'm not so sure its the coolant temperature sensor, but I could be wrong.
Two things of note, the vehicle radio doesn't work(previous owner mentioned it) but I haven't checked it as I just play my own music, and after reinstalling the battery after 3-4 days the keyless entry was struggling to be recognized, so it wouldn't lock or unlock the doors but somehow the vehicle would start up, after a long drive, the keyless entry started to function as intended. I checked both the key fob batteries, and they both tested at 3.01 volts so they seem to be good.
There are no CEL and it drivers perfectly fine except the terrible cold performance of the transmission.
I googled the issue and couldn't really find anything definitive, but this link (https://forums.edmunds.com/discussio...rting-problems) has various reason why people had these issues, but looking at everything from that link, it would cost too much to start fixing about everything, would anyone happen to know how I could possibly diagnose this issue other then taking it to a Lexus dealer as according to the posts, it seems they aren't very sure until they replace about everything.
Well taken care of by an old lady who couldn't drive anymore, had all the records from Lexus, and even got the water pump replaced and the brake master cylinder along with the brakes, most of the maintenance other then the ATF was done already, and I will be soon performing a transmission pan drop along with a full fluid exchange using the return hose because the car shifts and hesitate until the its warmed up, I do plan to use Maxlife ATF. I also own a 2014 Avalon with the same engine and transmission, and that car has 98K but it shifts flawlessly. I'm not so sure WS is a good ATF.
Back to the issue that just started 1.5 weeks ago.
I thought the battery that came along with the car was the issue when the first startup hesitation occurred its an Interstate MTP-24F with 1000 CA and 800 CCA, I fully charged that battery using a NOCO battery tender, and it took 3 days and the battery was back to full health, but I decided since this was my wife's car, I would put a new battery in it to be on the safe side, I installed a new EverStart Maxx 24F from Walmart because it's affordable and its the only store easily available for warranty purposes out here in Laramie, WY. The temperature dropped to 15F and when I went to start the car, the same hesitation that occurred with the old battery happened, I blamed the new battery and discussed my options with Walmart and they said they would have to test it before giving me a new battery. I went home and tested the car multiple times and the same 1-2 hesitation during start up continued, then I reinstalled the old Interstate battery and the startup hesitation continued, I charged both the batteries and they are both at full charge within 10-20 minutes, the same batteries I tested in my Avalon and the car starts right up without any issues, so battery doesn't seem to be the issues, I looked at the battery terminals, they look good to me (but I don't know how to verify that).
I decided to clean the MAF and it came out the cleanest looking MAF I have ever seen, and I have seen some very dirty ones, I cleaned it anyways, and the Start up hesitation issue continued, its only 1-2 seconds and the vehicle starts, once it actually took 4 different tries to get the car to start.
I thought it could be the Coolant temperature sensor, as I have had that issue before in an older Toyota vehicle, I did a WOT(wide open throttle) to see if the car would start sooner, I tried it twice but couldn't really tell as the vehicle maybe started slight faster but maybe not. I'm not so sure its the coolant temperature sensor, but I could be wrong.
Two things of note, the vehicle radio doesn't work(previous owner mentioned it) but I haven't checked it as I just play my own music, and after reinstalling the battery after 3-4 days the keyless entry was struggling to be recognized, so it wouldn't lock or unlock the doors but somehow the vehicle would start up, after a long drive, the keyless entry started to function as intended. I checked both the key fob batteries, and they both tested at 3.01 volts so they seem to be good.
There are no CEL and it drivers perfectly fine except the terrible cold performance of the transmission.
I googled the issue and couldn't really find anything definitive, but this link (https://forums.edmunds.com/discussio...rting-problems) has various reason why people had these issues, but looking at everything from that link, it would cost too much to start fixing about everything, would anyone happen to know how I could possibly diagnose this issue other then taking it to a Lexus dealer as according to the posts, it seems they aren't very sure until they replace about everything.
01-06-21, 01:30 PM
#11
Intermediate
Once started, how does it idle?
Also just as an FYI, I had my ES350 fail to start at all after replacing the battery. Started up the second time though. Once I got a few miles on it the problem never reoccurred. I suspect some of the parameters in the ECM reset themselves after the battery swap and the car had to relearn some stuff. Not sure if this is applicable to your scenario.
Also just as an FYI, I had my ES350 fail to start at all after replacing the battery. Started up the second time though. Once I got a few miles on it the problem never reoccurred. I suspect some of the parameters in the ECM reset themselves after the battery swap and the car had to relearn some stuff. Not sure if this is applicable to your scenario.
01-07-21, 02:25 PM
#12
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
I would measure the fuel pressure on the rail after you turn the car off and a couple of hours later. If the pressure drops then the problem is the non-return valve which is located on the fuel filter assembly in the tank.
Try this, with the engine cold press the start/stop button twice without pressing the brake pedal, leave it like that a couple of seconds and then repeat the process 2-3 times for 4-5 minutes, then try to start the engine.
Try this, with the engine cold press the start/stop button twice without pressing the brake pedal, leave it like that a couple of seconds and then repeat the process 2-3 times for 4-5 minutes, then try to start the engine.
Other then that, 9/10 start ups are 1-2 second slight hesitation upon start up, and I do have acceleration hesitation too but only when they vehicle is cold and I think that's related to the ATF because it shifts funny during cold, and when hot it's only the downshifts that you can slightly feel.
IACV & Throttle body worth cleaning? my only concern is that MAF looked extremely clean, maybe the throttle body may not be dirty?
Also worth cleaning the Coolant temperature sensor? I know this weird but when I used to rebuild engines, I would clean the Coolant temperature sensor of the "black" build up with a brush gently, and it would come out looking clean and golden like it should, did that over 50+ times and never had an issue. why did I do it? I once had an issue with Coolant temperature sensor not letting a car of mine start, WOT and it would start, I used after market sensors and they didn't work properly, so I just took a brush to an old one and it start working perfectly, I'm not sure if that would work in this scenario.
01-07-21, 03:17 PM
#13
Try to clean the throttle body and then disconnect the negative from the battery and leave it like that for 30 minutes. When you reconnect the negative the first start should be a bit problematic, most likely it will switch off immediately but start it again.
There is a small chance that you will fix the problem by cleaning the TB, there’s some sort of problem with the fuel pump or the pressure regulator.
There is a small chance that you will fix the problem by cleaning the TB, there’s some sort of problem with the fuel pump or the pressure regulator.
01-07-21, 03:28 PM
#14
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Try to clean the throttle body and then disconnect the negative from the battery and leave it like that for 30 minutes. When you reconnect the negative the first start should be a bit problematic, most likely it will switch off immediately but start it again.
There is a small chance that you will fix the problem by cleaning the TB, there’s some sort of problem with the fuel pump or the pressure regulator.
There is a small chance that you will fix the problem by cleaning the TB, there’s some sort of problem with the fuel pump or the pressure regulator.
what kind of mileage you guys get on highway in the 07-12 ES 350? one without eco modes
I got 23-24 mpg on highway driving strictly, that's a little low because me 14 Avalon in eco mode gives me 28 mpg on the highway, I do drive really fast, especially on long drives, its not your typical 70 mph cruises.
01-07-21, 03:30 PM
#15
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Once started, how does it idle?
Also just as an FYI, I had my ES350 fail to start at all after replacing the battery. Started up the second time though. Once I got a few miles on it the problem never reoccurred. I suspect some of the parameters in the ECM reset themselves after the battery swap and the car had to relearn some stuff. Not sure if this is applicable to your scenario.
Also just as an FYI, I had my ES350 fail to start at all after replacing the battery. Started up the second time though. Once I got a few miles on it the problem never reoccurred. I suspect some of the parameters in the ECM reset themselves after the battery swap and the car had to relearn some stuff. Not sure if this is applicable to your scenario.