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Oil Pan Drain Bolt Damaged

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Old 01-30-21, 02:01 PM
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qmanman
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Default Oil Pan Drain Bolt Damaged

The Bolt on the left is what came out of my car. There is a groove in the middle with an o-ring in it. The bottom most threads are smashed over like it was cross threaded. It was hard to remove. The bolt on the right is a new one I got from Autozone. It won't go in easily so I ordered a tap to fix that. My question is this.

Is the bolt supposed to have that o-ring or did someone rig this thing with the o-ring after they effed up the threads?


Old 01-30-21, 02:10 PM
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LeX2K
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Here is the OE part the replacement you got looks to be the same.
Oil Pan Drain Bolt Damaged-lf27ccy.png
Old 01-30-21, 02:57 PM
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ESh
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It is not supposed to have that o-ring in there.
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Old 01-30-21, 07:07 PM
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qmanman
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Thanks. Just what I wanted to hear.
Old 01-31-21, 03:50 AM
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Zereldo
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Originally Posted by qmanman
Thanks. Just what I wanted to hear.
Are the drain pan threads damaged?
Old 01-31-21, 09:39 AM
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Tec80
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Use grease on the tap when chasing the pan threads, then pour a half quart of oil in the fill neck with the drain bolt out, just to make sure no metal stays in the pan. Use a new sealing washer every time the plug is removed.
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Old 01-31-21, 11:01 AM
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tronimrich
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I always get called a sucker for going to a toyota dealership to get my oil done (I'm not an inclined gear head)

But this is why. Those easy lube places have idiots and kids working at them and I just don't trust em
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Old 01-31-21, 11:02 AM
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qmanman
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Originally Posted by Zereldo
Are the drain pan threads damaged?
Yes
Originally Posted by Tec80
Use grease on the tap when chasing the pan threads, then pour a half quart of oil in the fill neck with the drain bolt out, just to make sure no metal stays in the pan. Use a new sealing washer every time the plug is removed.
My neighbor is a metal worker. I had to order the tap but he said the same thing about grease. Then magnet. I bought a new drain bolt and always put on a new washer on all our cars.

Thanks guys.
Old 02-01-21, 12:46 PM
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Wilson2000
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Tapping buggered threads can be difficult. It takes a lot of "touch" to land the tapered tap in the correct grove. The amount of cross-threading and the depth of the crossed threads will determine just how difficult this will be. By all means, do everything you can to ensure that no metal chips remain in the pan. I would let a quart of Rislone (or other) engine flush drain through the engine before replacing the plug and refilling with oil.
Old 02-01-21, 03:19 PM
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Sorry to disappoint you, but toyota/lexus also has idiots changing oil. The oil change is a boring task that they rush in. Chances are they will over tighten and overfill.
this is why I do oil changes myself using torque wrench and proper level oil fill
Old 02-01-21, 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by tolian21
Sorry to disappoint you, but toyota/lexus also has idiots changing oil.
The lube rack is the starting position for all mechanic rookies, so, expect the worse! I would never let one of those grease monkeys get their d*%# filthy hands on my vehicle!
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Old 02-01-21, 05:07 PM
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Wow that’s bad. An o-ring on a threaded surface, they may have just gone with duct tape at that point.

Do you happen to know who did your last oil change?
Old 02-02-21, 04:14 PM
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qmanman
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Originally Posted by Hayk
Do you happen to know who did your last oil change?
I do not. This is my first oil change. First time I've ever seen such a screw up.

I ordered a tap on Saturday and Amazon promised it to me on Sunday. Well, a 7/8" tap showed up on Sunday instead of the 12mm x 1.25. That 7/8 tap was heavy as hell. I had to tell Amazon they effed up and I got the correct one about an hour ago.

I tapped the hole and stuck a magnet up in there. This pulled out more bits of steel than I imagined it would. I did this about 50 times and then poured a quart of MMO through it. Then stuck the magnet up there another 50 times and pulled out no more pieces.

From what I can find the oil capacity on this engine is 6.4 qts. Mine took 7 qts. One thing I did was jack up the passenger side to tap it. This made more oil come pouring out of the drain pan after it had slowed to a trickle. This also happens on my 2005 Accord. Capacity is 4.5 qts but if you jack up the passenger side it takes 5 qts. Anyway, does this capacity sound right?

Last edited by qmanman; 02-02-21 at 07:53 PM.
Old 02-02-21, 08:52 PM
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tronimrich
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Originally Posted by tolian21
Sorry to disappoint you, but toyota/lexus also has idiots changing oil. The oil change is a boring task that they rush in. Chances are they will over tighten and overfill.
this is why I do oil changes myself using torque wrench and proper level oil fill
My point didn't come across well.

I bought my car used which was maintained at the same dealership every interval and I do the same now, for everything including OCI. If the newb oiler rack plebs **** up, they will be at fault without any other possible culpable actors, they will not be able to say "oh well its because you took it to jiffy that one time."

So if the oil pan bold thread is ****ed up, it's on them, as the car hasn't been anywhere else in it's 150k history.

Sorry for briefly higjacking the post OP. I hope you can fix your misthreaded bolt problem.

Last edited by tronimrich; 02-02-21 at 08:57 PM.
Old 02-03-21, 01:07 PM
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qmanman
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Originally Posted by tronimrich
So if the oil pan bold thread is ****ed up, it's on them, as the car hasn't been anywhere else in it's 150k history.

Sorry for briefly higjacking the post OP. I hope you can fix your misthreaded bolt problem.
No sweat bro but how would you prove the car hasn't been anywhere else in it's 150k history? How would you be able to prove that you did not **** up the threads yourself, or your neighbor or etc?

I'm figuring that if you have a history of taking it to the dealer they're just gonna take care of you cuz you're a windfall to them. But what would you do if they declined to take care of you?


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