what else when working in suspension area and motor mounts?
#1
Pit Crew
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my mechanic is changing my front right lower control arm and outer tie rod end and my motor mounts ( he says 2 i think? for 200$) is that a good deal? anything else i should do while hes in those areas?
my car has 240k miles i already did struts all around, still hearing some noise on bumps in the rear, and more road noise then i was expecting, the only bushing ive inspected is the front right and the bushing looks torn on the control arm, is it safe to assume they will all be in bad shape? what other bushings will have failed at 240k in texas?
also should i do the inner tie rod , as the boot has accumulated oil on it (black) and looks to be torn (maybe from road debris) is it easy to inspect inside? (im new to cars but trying to learn )
my car has 240k miles i already did struts all around, still hearing some noise on bumps in the rear, and more road noise then i was expecting, the only bushing ive inspected is the front right and the bushing looks torn on the control arm, is it safe to assume they will all be in bad shape? what other bushings will have failed at 240k in texas?
also should i do the inner tie rod , as the boot has accumulated oil on it (black) and looks to be torn (maybe from road debris) is it easy to inspect inside? (im new to cars but trying to learn )
#2
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Balljoint. I might even replace the wheel bearing with that much mileage.
The upper engine strut, commonly called a dog bone, is a common fail part. Replace if the rubber bushing is torn.
The inner tie rod is best checked with tie rod removed. Pull/push gently on the tie rod shaft and replace if you feel slack.
The upper engine strut, commonly called a dog bone, is a common fail part. Replace if the rubber bushing is torn.
The inner tie rod is best checked with tie rod removed. Pull/push gently on the tie rod shaft and replace if you feel slack.
#3
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when doing suspension, you generally want to replace things in pairs, both sides, otherwise, your car may not act quite right. The control arms for example, holds a lot of force, your going to have a weak one, and a strong one if you only replace one. at your mileage, anything you can afford to replace will make it a better handling, more responsive car.
#4
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I've always had wheel bearings give me notice when they needed replaced. they get noisy. generally, what you want to replace is ball joints, tie rods, control arms, shocks, sway bar bushings and sway bar end links. and any torn rubber you may find down there. motor mounts dont need replaced unless rubber is torn or they are broken.
you can come over here for your make, model and get a parts list together and pick them up cheap at Rock Auto. I generally stick with moog. there are a few others I've had good luck with as well. I think the moog control arm came with ball joints installed. make sure to check the torque on them. found mine not torqued down.
https://www.mylparts.com/v-2008-lexu...e--3-5l-v6-gas
https://www.mylparts.com/v-2008-lexu...ont-suspension
https://www.mylparts.com/v-2008-lexu...ion-components
www.rockauto.com
full suspension rebuild over here
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...y-options.html
you can come over here for your make, model and get a parts list together and pick them up cheap at Rock Auto. I generally stick with moog. there are a few others I've had good luck with as well. I think the moog control arm came with ball joints installed. make sure to check the torque on them. found mine not torqued down.
https://www.mylparts.com/v-2008-lexu...e--3-5l-v6-gas
https://www.mylparts.com/v-2008-lexu...ont-suspension
https://www.mylparts.com/v-2008-lexu...ion-components
www.rockauto.com
full suspension rebuild over here
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...y-options.html
Last edited by w84me; 03-30-22 at 09:39 AM.
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