NoiseFree

I really don't recall whether I have the original battery or a replacement (leaning towards a replacement).
It's a 2007 ES-350.

I went to the car yesterday and immediately noticed the driver door was ajar.
Sure enough the car wouldn't start, the battery was totally dead.
I noticed some corrosion on the negative terminal.

A buddy came over and boostered the battery and the car started.
I let it run around 10 minutes before driving off.
The battery light did not come on.

Drove back that night with no issues.
Drove the car today with multiple stops (engine off/on) with no issues.


Questions:
1. Can a battery be drained totally as was my case, and then come back to life as normal, or will
I soon have problems with it?
2. What would you recommend I do?

Mike734

First off, there should be a date on the battery. If it’s less than three years old you should be able to drain it and bring it back to a useful life. If it’s over six years old then discharging it will be more damaging. You might as well replace it. Useful life is on a downhill slope. You should certainly clean up those battery connectors. The battery light won’t be on if the alternator is still charging the battery. Take the car to any battery shop or auto parts store and let them load test it. They will give you an idea of how much starting capacity it has left.

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

Agree with the above post. I also wanted to add that I find that old batteries continue to corrode the battery cables even after cleaning. I had a battery about 3-4 years old that had corrosion on both terminals. Cleaned it multiple times and it kept coming back. Replaced with a new battery and the issue went away. There is a gas that comes out of the battery that oxidizes the terminals from what I understand and it happens more with age.

So if you see corrosion it’s a good sign to get a new battery. Costco has a good deal on Interstate AGM batteries but you may need to wait till one comes in (I called once a week till it showed up).

NoiseFree

Thanks Mike and Hayk, I'll take your advice and start with a load test and go from there.

NoiseFree

If it's any help, I just tested the battery with my multi-meter.
Reading of 12V, can't get finer than that.
The name at the top of the battery is:
8002 6L
MF

If that means anything to anyone?
Does that tell you anything? (It doesn't have a red top, it's black).

I have an appt. at a mechanic shop tomorrow.

Hayk

iTrader: (1)

Doesn't mean much unfortunately, see what the mechanic finds. A voltmeter can only tell the state of charge and needs to read in tenths of a Volt for an accurate assessment. 12.6V or higher is a 100% charge, 12.0V is around 50%. The battery should have a brand name sticker and a rating in CCA, somewhere around 500-700CCA. You need a load tester to check the health of the battery - the mechanic will have one.

NoiseFree

Thanks Hayk.
Well this is what the test yielded today:
Result: Replace Battery
Battery rating: 600 CCA
Voltage: 12.50V
Measured: 273 CCA
Temperature: 68F
Cranking health: Replace Battery
Reserve health: No test

So I made an appointment to replace the battery on Wednesday afternoon.

NoiseFree

Was less than thrilled with the service the garage gave today.
The report I gave above came from the computer read-out.

First off when I arrived, he said he couldn't find me in the appointment schedule!
Then he said come back in 15-20 minutes to get my car.
45 minutes later it still wasn't ready.

This is what the service guy wrote on the my invoice/receipt,
directed at the repair guy:
"Customer reports battery dies and will not hold a charge."
Both were fabrications!
My battery died once, on Friday.
It held its charge before that time, and since it was boostered on Friday.

Mike734

You don’t need an appointment test the battery. Any shop can do it. But now it’s been done and that CCA is low. Do you have Costco near you? They have a good deal on batteries and a good warranty.