Used car prep
09-29-23, 09:21 PM
#1
2nd gear
Thread Starter
Used car prep
I am closing on a 2017 ES 350 soon. This is my first time owning a Lexus/Toyota car and would like some advice on what to do in terms of ensuring I take good care of it from the get go.
2017 ES 350, 120KM. The car drives quite well, no sounds or issues in engine during startup or running, transmission shifting smooth while driving though the shifter felt slightly stiff when moving between Park to drive or to reverse, like not effortless but not stuck either? Would like insights on cause/potential fixes.
Dealership covers engine oil + filter + new tires, independent mechanic checked and said rear brake pads are quite good and front are at 60%, suspension in solid shape, spark plugs replaced recently. I am planning to do the following once I receive the car, please advise if you think I should add or remove something.
2017 ES 350, 120KM. The car drives quite well, no sounds or issues in engine during startup or running, transmission shifting smooth while driving though the shifter felt slightly stiff when moving between Park to drive or to reverse, like not effortless but not stuck either? Would like insights on cause/potential fixes.
Dealership covers engine oil + filter + new tires, independent mechanic checked and said rear brake pads are quite good and front are at 60%, suspension in solid shape, spark plugs replaced recently. I am planning to do the following once I receive the car, please advise if you think I should add or remove something.
- Replace engine oil + filter (done by dealer)
- Replace engine and cabin air filter
- Coolant flush
- Replace brake fluid (would you recommend a flush instead of just replacing?)
- Replace transmission fluid (planning to follow the advice on this forum, drain and top up the quantity drained, then repeat at next oil change)
- Top up washer fluid with winter fluid (in GTA - Ontario and winters here soon)
- Put Techron fuel system cleaner (open to suggestions on better products) plus 91 Octane gas and take the car on a long drive.
09-30-23, 05:07 AM
#2
Intermediate
Congratulations, here's what I'd do:
1. Assuming service records show regular oil changes, and dealer is using the correct oil and OEM filter, then I'd leave it for a few thousand miles.
2. Personally I'd just check them, or even ask the dealer to include new ones, but they're not expensive to replace if you feel inclined.
3. I'd check service records to see when last done and go from there.
4. As 3.
5. Unless changed recently then I'd do it.
6. Yep.
7. I have done, but not sure how much difference it makes if using premium fuel.
In addition I also do the following ahead of winter:
8. Apply some kind of rust proofing. This can be anything from a full blown expensive treatment, to just spraying some kind of protection underneath. I do the latter.
9. I'd treat all the door and rubber trim with something like Gummi Pflege.
1. Assuming service records show regular oil changes, and dealer is using the correct oil and OEM filter, then I'd leave it for a few thousand miles.
2. Personally I'd just check them, or even ask the dealer to include new ones, but they're not expensive to replace if you feel inclined.
3. I'd check service records to see when last done and go from there.
4. As 3.
5. Unless changed recently then I'd do it.
6. Yep.
7. I have done, but not sure how much difference it makes if using premium fuel.
In addition I also do the following ahead of winter:
8. Apply some kind of rust proofing. This can be anything from a full blown expensive treatment, to just spraying some kind of protection underneath. I do the latter.
9. I'd treat all the door and rubber trim with something like Gummi Pflege.
09-30-23, 10:35 AM
#3
2nd gear
Thread Starter
Congratulations, here's what I'd do:
1. Assuming service records show regular oil changes, and dealer is using the correct oil and OEM filter, then I'd leave it for a few thousand miles.
2. Personally I'd just check them, or even ask the dealer to include new ones, but they're not expensive to replace if you feel inclined.
3. I'd check service records to see when last done and go from there.
4. As 3.
5. Unless changed recently then I'd do it.
6. Yep.
7. I have done, but not sure how much difference it makes if using premium fuel.
In addition I also do the following ahead of winter:
8. Apply some kind of rust proofing. This can be anything from a full blown expensive treatment, to just spraying some kind of protection underneath. I do the latter.
9. I'd treat all the door and rubber trim with something like Gummi Pflege.
1. Assuming service records show regular oil changes, and dealer is using the correct oil and OEM filter, then I'd leave it for a few thousand miles.
2. Personally I'd just check them, or even ask the dealer to include new ones, but they're not expensive to replace if you feel inclined.
3. I'd check service records to see when last done and go from there.
4. As 3.
5. Unless changed recently then I'd do it.
6. Yep.
7. I have done, but not sure how much difference it makes if using premium fuel.
In addition I also do the following ahead of winter:
8. Apply some kind of rust proofing. This can be anything from a full blown expensive treatment, to just spraying some kind of protection underneath. I do the latter.
9. I'd treat all the door and rubber trim with something like Gummi Pflege.
09-30-23, 01:33 PM
#4
Intermediate
You're welcome.
It's as simple or as hard as you want to make it, and can be anything from cleaning off all surface rust with a wire brush, treating everything, and spraying inside every panel and cavity; to just raising the car and spraying the underside. What you do is entirely up to you, how thorough you want to be, and how much time you want to spend on it. Whichever you choose, anything is better than nothing, and I chose a middle ground. I used the Dynax products from Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 & UB), as well as ACF 50, and this is what I did:
Last year I started by rinsing the underside with a lawn sprayer, and once dry I sprayed any cavitities I could see with Dynax S50. I also removed the wheels and arch liners (one at a time), cleaned up inside the arches, covered the brakes with a plastic bag, and gave the area a good spray of S50, especially around the brake lines and fuel filler. I then gave the underside a good spray of Dynax UB. Both Dynax products come in a can, with a fairly long 360 degree lance, as such they're pretty easy to apply. This took most of a day, and I then left it overnight for the Dynax to dry. The next day, for good measure, I took a garden pump sprayer and sprayed the entire underside with ACF 50.
I figure the Dynax is good for 2 or 3 years, so this year I gave the underside a rinse with a lawn sprayer, and the following day gave the underside a good spraying of ACF 50, which only took about half an hour.
I will add that it's wise to put something under the car before you start, I used flattened out cardboard boxes, to catch any drips, especially from the ACF 50, which is quite runny; and allow a day or so for things to dry off before using the car.
It's as simple or as hard as you want to make it, and can be anything from cleaning off all surface rust with a wire brush, treating everything, and spraying inside every panel and cavity; to just raising the car and spraying the underside. What you do is entirely up to you, how thorough you want to be, and how much time you want to spend on it. Whichever you choose, anything is better than nothing, and I chose a middle ground. I used the Dynax products from Bilt Hamber Dynax S50 & UB), as well as ACF 50, and this is what I did:
Last year I started by rinsing the underside with a lawn sprayer, and once dry I sprayed any cavitities I could see with Dynax S50. I also removed the wheels and arch liners (one at a time), cleaned up inside the arches, covered the brakes with a plastic bag, and gave the area a good spray of S50, especially around the brake lines and fuel filler. I then gave the underside a good spray of Dynax UB. Both Dynax products come in a can, with a fairly long 360 degree lance, as such they're pretty easy to apply. This took most of a day, and I then left it overnight for the Dynax to dry. The next day, for good measure, I took a garden pump sprayer and sprayed the entire underside with ACF 50.
I figure the Dynax is good for 2 or 3 years, so this year I gave the underside a rinse with a lawn sprayer, and the following day gave the underside a good spraying of ACF 50, which only took about half an hour.
I will add that it's wise to put something under the car before you start, I used flattened out cardboard boxes, to catch any drips, especially from the ACF 50, which is quite runny; and allow a day or so for things to dry off before using the car.
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alih (09-30-23)
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