Stereo Upgrade
#31
Driver School Candidate
#32
Intermediate
Thread Starter
The Alpine is a non-powered 10" DVC sub.(4 ohm wired to 2ohm) It will handle 500 watts continuous and 1000 watts peaks. Powered by a 500 Watt alpine amp.
The microsub I used was a non-powered 8" SVC.(4 ohm) It will handle 250 watts continuous and 500 watts peak. Powered by the same amp. It sounded good, but just isn't able to keep up like the 10" will. If you are looking for good bass fill, it should work fine. If you want to really feel the bass, you might be disappointed. But it will be a lot better than the stock sub.
The microsub I used was a non-powered 8" SVC.(4 ohm) It will handle 250 watts continuous and 500 watts peak. Powered by the same amp. It sounded good, but just isn't able to keep up like the 10" will. If you are looking for good bass fill, it should work fine. If you want to really feel the bass, you might be disappointed. But it will be a lot better than the stock sub.
#33
Driver School Candidate
The Alpine is a non-powered 10" DVC sub.(4 ohm wired to 2ohm) It will handle 500 watts continuous and 1000 watts peaks. Powered by a 500 Watt alpine amp.
The microsub I used was a non-powered 8" SVC.(4 ohm) It will handle 250 watts continuous and 500 watts peak. Powered by the same amp. It sounded good, but just isn't able to keep up like the 10" will. If you are looking for good bass fill, it should work fine. If you want to really feel the bass, you might be disappointed. But it will be a lot better than the stock sub.
The microsub I used was a non-powered 8" SVC.(4 ohm) It will handle 250 watts continuous and 500 watts peak. Powered by the same amp. It sounded good, but just isn't able to keep up like the 10" will. If you are looking for good bass fill, it should work fine. If you want to really feel the bass, you might be disappointed. But it will be a lot better than the stock sub.
So what size of front and rear speakers did you install 6x9 and 6x8?
#34
Driver School Candidate
The Alpine is a non-powered 10" DVC sub.(4 ohm wired to 2ohm) It will handle 500 watts continuous and 1000 watts peaks. Powered by a 500 Watt alpine amp.
The microsub I used was a non-powered 8" SVC.(4 ohm) It will handle 250 watts continuous and 500 watts peak. Powered by the same amp. It sounded good, but just isn't able to keep up like the 10" will. If you are looking for good bass fill, it should work fine. If you want to really feel the bass, you might be disappointed. But it will be a lot better than the stock sub.
The microsub I used was a non-powered 8" SVC.(4 ohm) It will handle 250 watts continuous and 500 watts peak. Powered by the same amp. It sounded good, but just isn't able to keep up like the 10" will. If you are looking for good bass fill, it should work fine. If you want to really feel the bass, you might be disappointed. But it will be a lot better than the stock sub.
#35
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Rears are still stock.
I will replace all someday but am in escrow on a house that needs a complete interior remodel so funds are being diverted.
I may still go back and replace the rears with the Boston Pros if I ever get the time to mess with it.
#36
Driver School Candidate
[QUOTE=Ratchey;9797757]The front's are 6.5" Boston Pro and Infinity Kappa Tweeters.
Rears are still stock.
I will replace all someday but am in escrow on a house that needs a complete interior remodel so funds are being diverted.
I may still go back and replace the rears with the Boston Pros if I ever get the time to mess with it.[/QUOTI
I confused, sorry. On those pictures the door cut out looks like an oval and you mentioned you have used adapters from your old car in order to install 6.5.
Rears are still stock.
I will replace all someday but am in escrow on a house that needs a complete interior remodel so funds are being diverted.
I may still go back and replace the rears with the Boston Pros if I ever get the time to mess with it.[/QUOTI
I confused, sorry. On those pictures the door cut out looks like an oval and you mentioned you have used adapters from your old car in order to install 6.5.
#37
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Correct, the opening is slightly larger than a 6x9". But the stock speakers are 6.5" and I used adapters to fit a 6.5". Once I have the funds, I will probably upgrade to a 6x9 or 8" in the front just to increase the mid-bass.
Stock Speaker Front
Boston Mid with Adapter
Stock Speaker Front
Boston Mid with Adapter
#38
Driver School Candidate
hmmm very interesting. There is no way to install 6.5 into the OEM adapter, so I need to buy a new adapter or 6x9, right?
#40
Driver School Candidate
I found it very absurd because all websites saying: 6.5 front/ 6.5 rear. Good thing I saw your pictures, because there is now way it will fit.
#41
Driver School Candidate
Sub Humming
Just a quick followup on this. I have not had time to do anymore work on the system. I have it tuned to where it sounds decent on most songs, but I think I want to upgrade to some newer speakers. Looking at maybe the new Infinity Kappa Perfect series with the 6x9s for more upfront mid-bass. Anyway, I am currently trying to purchase a house so this project must sit on the back burner for a while.
Just thought I would post a pic of the current state of the trunk assembly.
Just thought I would post a pic of the current state of the trunk assembly.
Last edited by 40edison; 03-14-17 at 03:08 PM. Reason: Misatke
#42
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Clean the area where you grounded it, or move the ground to a different location.
Make sure the power wires are not near the signal wires.
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seoteric (05-21-19)
#43
Driver School Candidate
Ratchey, really awesome work you're doing! I am like you in that I want a more immersive audio experience when I'm driving. However, I don't have the car audio installation experience that you possess. In your opinion, would it be worth it to change out all the stock speakers (minus the sub and the tweeters, which look to be a pain) with aftermarket speakers? I have a 2013 ES without ML and my old car has aftermarket speakers which I could easily transfer (2x 6.5" Infinity Reference 2-way and 2x 6x9" Pioneer 3-way) to the ES. Do you think this job would be worth my time without changing the amp, sub, and head unit??
#44
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Ratchey, really awesome work you're doing! I am like you in that I want a more immersive audio experience when I'm driving. However, I don't have the car audio installation experience that you possess. In your opinion, would it be worth it to change out all the stock speakers (minus the sub and the tweeters, which look to be a pain) with aftermarket speakers? I have a 2013 ES without ML and my old car has aftermarket speakers which I could easily transfer (2x 6.5" Infinity Reference 2-way and 2x 6x9" Pioneer 3-way) to the ES. Do you think this job would be worth my time without changing the amp, sub, and head unit??
I can't say how much of an improvement you will get. The area where the stereo lacks the most is the bass. I imagine just upgrading the sub system would improve the overall sound greatly.
#45
Driver School Candidate
Digital signal to aftermarket amp?
How exactly did you get the signal from the small white signal harness to the DSP? It wasn’t clear if you spliced that and ran it direct to the DSP? I’m working on adding an aftermarket amplifier and bypassing the factory amp. There was a short in either the amp or the signal wire and it eventually stopped working, so the plan is to take the factory amp out completely. The volume controls etc. don’t work unless they’re hooked up to the amp, which I assume the signal goes through that digital cable. In one of your photos, it doesn’t look like you spliced into that white signal cable.