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I just measured my dash tweeters from a 2018 es300h and they measured 3.7 ohm so pretty close to 4 ohm
jbl makes a 4” speaker that measures out at 3 ohms that should give you a little more out of the stock amp that shouldn’t hurt your amp. It even says it’s made for OEM replacement speakers. I’ll try it out on wife’s nx !
I just measured my dash tweeters from a 2018 es300h and they measured 3.7 ohm so pretty close to 4 ohm
jbl makes a 4” speaker that measures out at 3 ohms that should give you a little more out of the stock amp that shouldn’t hurt your amp. It even says it’s made for OEM replacement speakers. I’ll try it out on wife’s nx !
Actually now I remember its been a long time. The NON ML that is possibly correct for the up top L&R dash speakers only. The ML has different ohm's. I did my ES350 w/ M/L years ago. I am now finishing up my GS350. Here is the GS350 info. There is a illustration of the ES350 M/L and Non M/L available. The Lexus M/L systems do all have strange speaker ohms.
Hi , How did you wire the subwoofer in? Obviously 12 volt battery is in trunk, thankfully, and as for the audio connection, did you use high level inputs?
Ok so my plan is this, I bought a taramps amp off eBay Taramps DS160X2 Micro 2 Channel Car Amplifier that is literally palm sized. I’ll try it with stock sub and see what it does or I have a mb quart 8” that swap in with that amp. And if that doesn’t sound right I’m going to have to get a line level converter and see if that works. If that all falls apart I’ll have to get a box built and stick in the two kicker comp r 10’s and then take them out when going in for service. Of course trying to do the cheapest but better than stock setup
In my opinion, the kappas are great speakers but you’re going to need power to make them sound good. That’s what usually top of the line speakers need “power=new amp”. For my non ML my speakers measured out at almost 4 ohms which most car speakers do. I think you would be safe with a 3 ohm or 4 ohm speaker. I can turn up the volume to 52 with distortion only coming from the 6.5” OEM woofers. I did put some infinity refs in the wife’s nx and they do sound very good !
In my opinion, the kappas are great speakers but you’re going to need power to make them sound good. That’s what usually top of the line speakers need “power=new amp”. For my non ML my speakers measured out at almost 4 ohms which most car speakers do. I think you would be safe with a 3 ohm or 4 ohm speaker. I can turn up the volume to 52 with distortion only coming from the 6.5” OEM woofers. I did put some infinity refs in the wife’s nx and they do sound very good !
Just FYI, that Kappas and Reference physically for most models are pretty much the same speakers. The Magnet may be a little bigger for power wise on the Kappa. The real difference is in the Crossovers. The caps, connectors, coils, and electronics in the Kappas are higher end, better quality stuff.
I gave a example of ohm myths a few post ago. You would likely not be able to tell the difference in the Kapp's vs Reference given a low volume blindfold test. At higher volume the Kappas will outshine the Ref. The low end efficiency is going to be more so affected by your source and todays compressed digital music is terrible at that. Pop in a good CD vs the phone music and see what you hear? Or use a high quality streaming service like Tidal.
Yes the ML sounds better done right with most speaker upgrades, but keep in mind that the ML has been measured and can also pump out as much as 67 watts to the front door speakers alone when comparing how much power you need to drive replacement speakers. I plan to one day go in and recapp the ML with some Nichicon capacitors. I think the ML will really shine even that much more then.
Ok now I have a question, are the front door speakers woofers or subs and the dash are tweeters ? I want to know if putting coax speakers would be worthwhile or are they crossed over lower so the tweeters in the speakers wouldn’t work (?) if you have done any measurements it would be greatly appreciated!!
Yes the measure of the 66watts was a stock ML system door mid 6" speakers output. I remember seeing it consistent at one of the Car Audio forums on both the IS ML and GS ML system. Have not seen the ES but I'm guessing based on the other 2 and owning and hearing the ES and GS ML its about the same.
The front door speakers are Mid Woofer just like any other 6 - 6.5 Component system you would buy. No t just Woofers but mid's. The Top dash are Coax if I remember correctly. There are threads and pic al over of the Stock dash L&R and Middle speakers. Just like most here who changed them out for Coax 3.5 they will work.
I am no expert and can only share my findings and research about the Lexus ML systems so Ill share something else here. So on the ES ML on my 2013 The Rear Sub was bottoming out bad sometimes. Others here had complained about it also. The Lexus Dealers had a fix for it which involved having the newer model ML Amp installed. For some it worked, other said it go a little better but still not resolved. What really sucked about it was being that I had the 13 ES350 U/L and GS350 Luxury both with M/L I found that no other Lexus M/L systems in other Model really suffered this problem the way the ES M/L did? (There are older threads about this here in the 6th Gen ES section).
Really digging into this I found that the new upgraded revised M/L amp pulled and cut low bass to the Rear Sub and moved more Bass to the lower Door speakers. I one day called the Manufacture of the Lexus M/L systems out on Cali to ask some questions and they confirmed that that was exactly the frequency mod they did in the revised ES M/L amps. They also told me I could send mine in not warrantied by Lexus anymore and have it done for like $900 or $1100? I forgot how much because no way I was going to pay or do that. What did stick out to me was that the Front door M/L factory speakers and amp were capable of being tuned to fill in the Bass for the reducing of the rear sub. I do know that both in my GS and ES the door speakers as they are are capable of vibrating the hell out of the car with bass shockingly for a stock system, but that they added more to them was surprising to me that they could go lower and louder.
I am in the process of building a upgraded system in my GS with upgraded Infinity Kappa door Mids, a 3.5-4" Dash mid, and custom mounted pillar Tweeter, 2 12" Subs in a custom Bandpass box, and Sub amp. About to buy a Minidsp C-DSP 8x12. That will control each channel for individual channel time Alignment correction, EQ, input/output level adjustment and many more options. Going to keep the Factory M/L amp and wire into it if I can.
Here is a pic of some tweeter pods I am going to modify and install my own Tweeters in higher up on the Pillars.
I don’t have the ML system and the OEM system that’s in it sucks. To me the front 6.5’s play a lot more bass than a mid (just my opinion) and the sub in the rear doesn’t do much at all except for rap music and still bottoms out. I want to replace the front 6.5”s. But I want to know if a coax will work or if it’s cutoff of all high frequencies and would be useless because those Freq’s are sent to the dash speakers. I will replace the sub at some point and add a small stetsome amp. I haven’t looked at any of the door speakers yet and was wondering if anyone has replaced and what they did and why
I don’t have the ML system and the OEM system that’s in it sucks. To me the front 6.5’s play a lot more bass than a mid (just my opinion) and the sub in the rear doesn’t do much at all except for rap music and still bottoms out. I want to replace the front 6.5”s. But I want to know if a coax will work or if it’s cutoff of all high frequencies and would be useless because those Freq’s are sent to the dash speakers. I will replace the sub at some point and add a small stetsome amp. I haven’t looked at any of the door speakers yet and was wondering if anyone has replaced and what they did and why
If you want a opinion I can give you mine right or wrong. The Non ML system is not as bad as you think. Some of owners here in different model Forum claim its better than the M/L that have had both. I don't think it is IMO, but it still better than alot of other cars. Yes the door speakers do play alot of bass but they are ranged and not just low woofers.
If I were you I would put a 2way Coax in there and see how it sounds? If it cut off the tweeters then so be it, but in my experience is that it's going to play some tweeter at the least. There is another thread a few thread below here in the ES Forum or above if you look where some have added Coax in the doors, and are in the process of adding Coax's in the doors.
The GS has a 6x9 cut out in the door with a 6.5 speakers. Don't remember if the ES has the same? If so, put a 6x9 in there, Dynamat, and seal and sound deaden with some speaker trim ring kits. That will also put more sound in the inside cabin and not in the doors. Also not a major difference but have some have discussed here find a 2ohm speaker for just a tiny power increase. I also used material to angle the Dash speaker up in the back some towards me, at more of a 45 degree angle away from pointing straight up to the windshield and filled in the holes to channel the Sound out and seal.
Also again improving your Source (ex.CD or Higher Quality Streaming app), would make the biggest difference along with the upgrades I mentioned. Its easy and inexpensive to improve on. That you can DIY! I think that system would improve to your liking quite a bit.
Ok I get what you’re saying but I really want to cut down the times I take the door panels off and on.
and it’s still under warranty so I really don’t want anything to elaborate or expensive ( I have that in my tundra) it’s a daily commuter and if they see I’ve done electrical to it,they’re going to void the warranty I have left. I don’t even think I have an alternator and it goes off battery when I have the fan on high! Besides I think some of the people on here just want something quick and easy and not a lot of money. That being said I might have to be the guinea pig and do some trial and error Lord knows I have enough speakers in my garage !
Ok I get what you’re saying but I really want to cut down the times I take the door panels off and on.
and it’s still under warranty so I really don’t want anything to elaborate or expensive ( I have that in my tundra) it’s a daily commuter and if they see I’ve done electrical to it,they’re going to void the warranty I have left. I don’t even think I have an alternator and it goes off battery when I have the fan on high! Besides I think some of the people on here just want something quick and easy and not a lot of money. That being said I might have to be the guinea pig and do some trial and error Lord knows I have enough speakers in my garage !
Nothing I mention was elaborate just various improvements. Nothing at all was complex.
You can't change the door speakers without taking off the door panels, as you were asking about the door speakers replacement. They cant Void the Warranty for changing out speakers. Unless you connected something wrong that shorted something out.
That would be like saying putting in a new Battery, (Electrical), plugging a adapter in the cigarette lighter plug in, or plugging in a MP3 source in the USB, voids the warranty or getting a new set of different brand tires. Nothing I said was alot of money. lol!
09-26-21, 06:43 PM
Speakers
