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Ok well that makes me feel a little better........I tried to force Amazon to have that darn part number.......I must have checked it 10 different ways but still Amazon was a no show. I am happy with the process and the products that I ended up with. I appreciate your efforts and the efforts of others to blaze the path and make these decisions a little easier. I will prob change my oil for the first time next weekend. Just to drive the non OCD people out there crazy ......my oil was just changed by the dealer before I bought it.....so nice gold oil should flow out. I am certain they use the cheap stuff.....cant wait to get that crap out of there!
Not a chance......bought my car from a used car dealer which name I wont mention............but this stuff def came out of a large barrel of cheap. If I knew I was gunna buy a 2016 I would have purchased a certified from Lexus......I made so many errors it aint even funny.
.....my car new to me only has 21k miles on it......it will take forever to put 5k to 7k miles on it for its oil change.
The oil changes should not be based solely on mileage. Most recommend changing the oil at least once a year as the combustion byproducts that are picked up by the oil just sitting around is not good for the engine.
Agreed......thats what I did with my old garage queen.....once a year because it might take 2 years to put 7k on the car.
My Toyota oil has arrived as well as the filter. The only thing I am missing would be a crush washer. I am hoping to do my first oil change this weekend.
Ok finally changed my oil. I was out in the garage forever doing quality control and establishing a system for many more oil changes on down the road. First issue was what oil ...filter...crush washer....to use and I finally gathered all of the needed parts As discussed above I used the Toyota OEM oil and a Mobile 1 filter with a OEM crush washer. Interesting note the OEM Toyota Ow 20 does not say Full Synthetic on the label.....it just says synthetic which leads me to believe that it is a blend....but its Toyota's blend so its ok by me.
It took me 30 min just to figure out the correct way to jack up the front of the car and I am still not sure what to do if I get a flat tire...I assume I would jack up in the normal pinch weld areas for tire change but not sure. I ended up jacking up the car in the front middle where there was a specific jack point listed in the owners manual.
Once up in the air it was impossible to get my jack stand in a safe place so I just pushed a ramp under the side of the car .....
I used a 14mm to remove the drain plug and empty the oil.....then I removed the inner canister fitting to have access to use the special plastic tool to drain the oil filter....this worked well. I then used my special tool to remove the whole oil canister. Man that thing was on tight and HERE IS WHERE I HAVE A QUESTION..........or maybe its just a statement. With two new lubed up O rings in place I installed the cartridge which didnt fit onto anything it just kind of sat in place...the bottom of the canister seemed spring loaded. I am a little confused here because I had to twist the old cartridge out of the canister. The new Mobile 1 cartridge was just sitting in place....when I tried to push it down it just sprung back at me if that makes any sense......so from there I just installed it.....starting by hand I twisted the canister until I could no longer twist by hand. I then tightened with a wrench and my special tool and barely got 1/4 turn before the canister bottomed out and there was no way possible to tighten it any more. Now I know we dont want to over tighten these things but it sure did seem to bottom out early. After listening to my ramble does this all sound familiar to u guys?
Once everything was all snugged up underneath I lowered the car flat and started adding oil.......First I added 5.75 quarts then checked....couldnt see clearly where the oil was on the dip stick so decided to pour all 6 quarts in knowing I still had .4 buffer in play. I started the car and let it run for a while then checked again.......still couldnt confirm where the oil was on the stick it was just too darn clear....so I took the car for a 10 mile drive and checked again. With 6qrts in and after a test drive the oil is so clean it just cannot be determined where it is exactly on the dipstick. For now I have decided to leave it that .4 shy until I can drive it again maybe a bit longer and actually be able to see where the oil registers on the dip stick. My best guess is that it is just shy of the full dot.
Sorry for the long post but does it sound like I have passed modern day oil change 101 or do u guys see issues in how I carried out this basic procedure?
Thanks
Thanks.....its not a difficult job at all....its just when u do anything for the first time you learn all of the idiosyncrasies. I think next time I will just run it up on car ramps which will be much easier.
I had to go to the local dealer to get some crush washers because the folks at Autozone didnt know what was needed. While I was there I purchased 2 additional quarts of OEM oil to cover the .4 in 6.4 .....
I was thrown off a bit when the parts guy came out with the same oil but different packaging.......do u guys see any differences in the 2 bottles?
As a perfectionist not being able to read the oil level on the dipstick after a oil change is driving me crazy. As u know we had a nice sunny day today so out came the garage queen for a ride.
Do u guys know of any secrets to see absolutely clear oil on a dipstick? Keep in mind some of the oil tries to fool you and is gathered further up the stick....but believe me when I tell u....there is no clear mark of oil on the dip stick. This is my first time working with Synthetic oil....it is so thin and clear......its impossible.
I put maybe 40 miles on the car today and have no idea how many miles will be needed to darken the oil...but I feel that is the only way I will be able to see it.
02-02-20, 05:31 PM
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