Lexmart

OK, I've started something I'm not sure exactly how to finish but I'm game. This is a long list of things I've torn into over this past weekend, learning a lot about my car as I go. Maybe it's all this cabin fever, but I've started messing with my recent 2013 Lexus ES350 purchase. It's actually been about 5 months. To date, all I did was clean it up a bit, install new wipers, fixed the failed passenger side mirror adjustment motor, clean up the throttle body and MAP sensor, and change the oil. I haven't even bothered with a new air filter (just tapped the dust out).

But this weekend I got an itch to start checking things in the engine bay. I had previously written that I was noticing some whistling and whirring sounds when the windows were rolled down. I also hear some tapping (doesn't seem to be engine knocking, fingers crossed) sitting at idle (even in the closed cabin). I'm seriously contemplating dropping the transmission pan, replacing the fluid and filter, to check that all out. I know, controversial subject. I want to know the condition for myself. Transmission seems pretty good and the pre-purchase inspection didn't raise a concern, but it's 160,000 miles after all.

I was curious about the spark plugs because of the knocking and I figured it was a fast easy check. Lexus service history indicates they were replaced at 118,000 miles (about 3 years and 50,000 miles ago). I only felt like checking the front 3 plugs since I wasn't relishing the idea of digging into the work to get to the back three. I'll save that for later if necessary. I figured I would see how the front 3 looked and dig more if needed. I found that all the coil packs (original) were just fine. No oil, no burn marks, no loose pieces. The plugs were all the same, surprisingly easy to loosen. Should they be that easy? Regardless, I found what looks to be old burnt oil on the threads of all 3, and no indication of any fouling of the tips so I'm thinking there is no large cylinder oil leaks probably. Could it be that the dealer put some oil on the threads when installing them? Like I said, the tips were clean. See the pictures below. They all look about the same to me. The oil thread it a bit of a mystery, but I think they are probably fine and only have about 50,000 miles on them. Any opinions on the oil and concerns since the tips are clean?

Next, I had noticed some noise near the serpentine belt, and when I listened to the belt tensioner pulley with a stethoscope, it was noticeably louder than the idler pulley. So I decided to remove the serpentine belt. Inspecting the belt, it seemed a bit old and dry and a few small cracks were in the ribs. Since the service records don't show any replacement ever, I'll put a new one on. Before I pulled off the tensioner pulley and idler pulley, I gave them a spin. The tensioner pulley spun more freely but has some slight metallic ball bearing sound, but no real play. The idler spun quiet, but had some play when I jostled it side to side. I pulled them both off and inspected. I'm trying to find replacement bearings to save money and learn some more. I've heard various things about different suppliers, NKG, Koyo, FSK, Moog, etc. Basically trying to stay away from cheap chinese bearings. Toyota sells the idler pulley with new bearing for about $60, and only the whole belt tensioner with pulley and bearings for $200. Not going to happen if I can help it. New bearings are about $10 a piece. Any advice for a good source for good bearings would be appreciated. I'm willing to do the work to press the old ones out and press in the new ones. I know, there are special tools, or a hammer.

I also inspected the crank pulley, the alternator pulley, water pump pulley, and a/c compressor pulley while I was in there. Might as well see what I have in this vehicle while the belt is off. Water pump was quiet when spun, and so was the alternator. No play in those either. But the water pump has 166,00 miles on it now. Replacing it looks to be a bear, though so I'm not leaning towards that until it's more evident that I need a replacement. But, the a/c compressor pulley rattled a bit. I have some pictures of the idler and tensioner pulleys and bearings I'm looking to replace as well as the a/c pulley with bearing.

The a/c compressor was the biggest challenge. The bolt in the clutch sits so close to the frame, there isn't much working room for a wrench and socket. I ended up just using a non-socketed closed end wrench since it allowed me to fit it onto the bolt head. Then, it's hard to get a grip on the clutch to keep it from spinning when you try to loosen the bolt. I ended doing some searching and found there is a special Toyota tool called a "magnetic clutch stopper" part number 07112-76060-01 for about $50 on toyota.service-solutions.com but I couldn't wait and didn't want to spend that. Then I came up with the idea of using my oil filter wrench that has large jaws to grab onto the protruding rubber covered cap on the clutch. Luckily it worked (with some slight marring from the wrench teeth, be careful) and I was able to remove the clutch! Pictures of that below. I will still replace the bearing in the pulley due to the excessive play and clanking noise as soon as I buy some snap ring pliers to be able to remove the snap ring holding on the a/c pulley. All other internet sources seemed to require complete removal of the alternator and a/c compressor, so I'm here to say it seems possible without doing all that, and proud I figured out a way to do it without that special tool or all those hours of work. You just need to jack up the car, remove the passenger tire and inner wheel well plastic shield to gain very tight access to the a/c clutch near the crackshaft pulley. Pictures below. Again, any good bearing sources would be appreciated.

And lastly, inspecting things I saw that the lower control arm rear bushings on both side of the car were cracked. I'm thinking of replacing those because I noticed excessive outside tire edge wear on the very worn tires and multiple suggested services for front end alignment in the service records. But Toyota only sells the whole control arm with the front and rear bushings as a whole. Although, I see there are some bushings available third party and videos of pressing out those old bushings and replacing them on other vehicles (couldn't find Lexus videos doing that other then replacing the entire control arm that has new bushings). I seem to only find third party bushings for avalons, camrys, and RX350s. But I've confirmed all those vehicles use the same control are part number, so those third party bushings should theoretically work on my ES350. I've also read that they may not perform like the OEM (for what that is worth). So, it's a matter of spending $200 for each control arm, or $30 a bushing and renting the tool to press out the old and press in the new bushing. The front bushing looks OK but is much different than the rear bushing. Maybe they should both be replaced. I hate to throw away a perfectly good control arm though. Seems like a waste of an otherwise perfectly good non-rusted part. I'm leaning towards taking up the challenge while this COVID thing keeps me at home and not driving the vehicle. I'm not afraid to learn and enjoy it actually. Then I know how much a job is worth to me in the future. Plus I'm an engineer and love to tinker and fix by nature.

Sorry for the long post, but I thought some of you might be interested and/or have some advice on these parts. Thanks for reading this far, and enjoy the pictures!

Picture of the cracking in the lower control arm rear bushing. Both passenger and driver side look the same.



Idler Pulley with what looks to be metals seals (Searching part number PU107016RMXY for the bearing type)

Tensioner pulley with rubber seals, type 6203 bearing (actually two stacked bearing from my research with a center sleeve to neck down to the bolt diameter).

Removed a/c clutch with some nicks from the oil filter wrench in the rubber cover on the clutch (be careful)

View from the fender access of the tight space for the a/c pulley (shown with clutch off and snap ring in place still)

Demo of the oil filter wrench gripping the clutch to gold it when removing the 10mm bolt holding in onto the a/c shaft. Hey, it worked...

View of the clutch plate (be careful to not loose the washer(s) in the center hub. Those spacers (one or more) are used to shim the gap between the clutch and the pulley for proper a/c clutch operation.

Spark plug #1 (left to right facing the front cylinder bank)

Spark plug #2 (left to right facing the front cylinder bank)

Spark plug #1 (left to right facing the front cylinder bank)