My 2017 300h hit 200K this week. I use it to drive Uber and Lyft so it gets a lot of miles. I've had very few problems. At 75K I developed a clunking in the suspension. It turned out to be the sway bar end link on the front passenger side. Not a hard DIY job. About $40 for the part (both sides) and 1 hour or so to replace them. At 190K miles I had the dreaded "check hybrid system" error. I reset the ECU by pulling the negative terminal on the battery for a few minutes. It disappeared and hasn't come back.

That's it

Maintenance wise, just the normal stuff. Pennzoil Platinum oil changes every 10K with the standard Toyota oil filter. Transmission drain/refill every 40K or so using Toyota WS. New Akebono front brake pads at 180K (still had about 25% left) and bled the whole system with new fluid while I was at it. Coolant flush for the engine and inverter with Toyota OEM fluid along with the OEM Denso spark plugs at 100K and 200K. And vacuuming out the mesh filter for the battery fan inlet on the rear drivers side door jam pretty frequently.

No burnt out lights, no rattles, everything still works. No change in MPG. I still get 38-42mpg on average. Doesn't consume any oil. It's at the same level after 10K miles as when I refilled it.

I'd like to upgrade to a 7G but with prices the way they are, that's not going to happen anytime soon. I'll report back when I hit 250K and 300K

 

Congratulations! Just shows that starting with a quality car and maintaining it adequately can bring many years and many miles of trouble free use.

 

Still on the original 12v?

 

Yep. No problems there.

 

mine still measures over 12v overnight. 2016 model.

 

So I ended up selling my 2017 @ 225000 for $16,500 last week. Still getting 40mpg. Sold it to a college kid who was between some econobox with 80K miles or this beauty with 225K. It would have been an easy decision to me.

Nothing significant went wrong during all that time except a downstream O2 sensor that died. Threw a check engine light. Easy replacement. ~$80 part. I still have a few suspension noises here and there but nothing dealbreaking.

 

Curious what made you change the eCVT fluid so often? Especially given skipped recommended maintenance on brake fluid and engine/inverter coolant. IMHO changing eCVT fluid it at 150k should be enough - I have changed mine at 120k and it was looking just slightly darker than normal, no metal flakes and no smell. I have seen many examples of these eCVTs go 300k+ with no fluid replacement and no problems. As a matter of fact I have not seen any reports of failed eCVTs on ESh, Camry-h, Avalon-h or Rav4h.

Also, what did your replace your ESh with?

 

My ESh mileage is getting on the high side it’s 74,000km (45,000 miles) now.

don’t normally keep cars much past 100,000km (60,000 miles), but will see how this ES goes.

 

Mine (2014) is at 116K now. I am debating changing the engine coolant and the inverter coolant. The dealer is so expensive, though. Can Toyota dealers change the fluids?

 

The comments above on the reliabilty of the ES just confirms J D Power based on owners surveyed rated the ES the most reliable vehicle ever.

 

Agree about your comment on the transmission fluid. Lexus states it never has to be changed for the entire vehicles life. My local Lexus Service Manager 26 years with Lexus and has been trained at the Lexus transmission factory in Detroit told me it never has to be changed. When training there he asked what is the #1 cause of Lexus transmission failures. They told him changing the fluid and using the wrong amount or the wrong fluid. Both involve changing which I have never done will never do and will never have a transmission problem.

 

I picked up a 2022 ESh Lux package. Same interior and exterior color. Had to fly down to California to pick it up, then drive it back home because they didn't have any in Utah with the triple beam headlights and ML system.





It's been difficult to shake the tendency to keep the transmission fluid clean after owning several Honda's and Acura's with glass transmissions. So many people on the Pilot, Accord and Acura TL forums have had transmission failures, especially when mated with the V6. In most cases, it's due to failure to maintain the AT fluid. I know that Toyota's don't have as high of a failure rate but it's practically bred into me after 20 years owning Honda's. I probably won't bother with changing it every 40K with the 2022 especially understanding the workings of the eCVT better - it's really just there for basic lubricant. It's not hydraulic at all. A standard auto transmission and this eCVT have practically nothing mechanically similar.

For coolant, isn't it every 100K miles? Or was it 100K miles then 50K miles thereafter? I don't recall. There didn't seem to be any sign of bad coolant at 200K. Still pink. Smelled fine. No debris or deposits. No leaks. Also, 100K miles only takes about 2 years in my case, if that. I know that both heat and time are factors in degrading the coolant but in this case, time doesn't add up to be much.

Fair enough. What I know for sure is that the fluid coming out is pretty nasty. It doesn't have any visible metal shavings, probably due to no clutch packs in an eCVT compared to a regular slush box. But it's dark brown after about 40K miles and doesn't smell all that great compared with the new stuff. It's not too tricky to use the correct fluid and to replace it at the same level. I just measure what came out and put the same amount in - which is always right to when the fluid starts to leak back out of the top hole.

The "changing transmission fluid in an eCVT" discussion is about as pointless as arguing what oil brand is best over on Bobistheoilguy.com. It may be a waste of time and money but it's cheap insurance IMO so I'll likely keep doing it. Probably not as often though.

 

Did you have to pay anything above MSRP?

As for coolant replacement this is what Toyota/Lexus says:

Initial engine coolant replacement at 100,000 miles/120 months. Replace every 50,000 miles/60 months thereafter. Initial inverter coolant replacement at 150,000 miles/180 months. Replace every 50,000 miles/60 months thereafter.

 

For what it's worth, and because I have to wait another 10 minutes or so to let my phone charge, here's my little list of pro's and con's I've noticed after about 3 weeks with the 2022 (for anyone thinking about going with a 7th Gen)

Pro's - Very feasible to get 50mpg with the 7G. If I tried real hard, I could get around 45mpg with the 6G. But the 7G will allow engine shutoff at any speed (rather than ~45mph in the 6G) and seems to have more torque with the traction motor, making accelerating from a stop easier to do without the engine kicking on. Also, the dynamic force A25-FXS has some significant improvements over the previous gen 2AR-FXE in the 6G. My average is hovering around 49mpg over the last 3 weeks. I'd anticipate I'd be about 40mpg even with the 6G with the driving conditions during that time (bad weather recently....)
Doors seem more solid when being shut. There was some "clanginess" with the 6G if you shut them hard. Spin-on oil filters are easier than the cartridge style when changing oil. The front bumper cover seems to have more of an upward lip that doesn't bottom out as easy. The driver seat in the 7G has a thigh support which is super nice when sitting for a long time. The lumbar support also adjusts up and down rather than just front and back like in the 6G. More trunk space. Removeable filter that you can clean for the hybrid battery fan rather than the little mesh thingy in the 6G. Added side and front cameras are nice for parking and backing. Most of the new tech is helpful rather than annoying (e.g. HUD, Android Auto, pedestrian detection, etc.). Headlights are excellent. Has a small passthrough since the battery is under the seat now.

The same - Engine noise. Maybe slightly lower in the 7G. Not much. Acceleration and power are about the same. Ride quality is about the same to me, maybe softer. Not enough to notice IMO. Interior space is about the same. Fit and finish are excellent on both. Parts and maintenance look to be the same cost. Oil and fluids are all standard and inexpensive (no crazy weird stuff like a BMW or Merc). 0W-16 oil, which is different but the same price as 0W-20. I can literally use all the same fluids (AT, coolant, brake) with exception to oil.

Con's - Doesn't show Gracenote info on the multimedia screen unless you're in Park. What's the point in even having it? Can't browse through USB audio files like you could in the 6G. You can switch between folders/artists/etc. but you can't select them from a list, only scroll through like you would with a CD. I preferred the **** in the 6G compared to the touchpad in the 7G although with the addition of the touchscreen it sort of evens out. The ML system isn't as great as I thought it would be. My 2012 TL had a far superior audio system, especially the bass. Adding two under seat subs has helped. I still feel like my ears need to pop when I listen to it. I just need to tinker with the settings. I had to do the same in the 6G. Everyone's different. I preferred the NuLuxe in the 6G to the semi-aniline leather in the 7G. Unfortunately you can't get all the bells and whistles in the base (which has the NuLuxe) otherwise I would have gone that route. We'll see how it holds up. Smaller gas tank (13.2 gallons vs. 17.2 in the 6G). Sun visors are cheapo puny little things that look like they came out of a Mitsubishi Mirage. No fog lights, although the headlights have them built in and admittedly, do a better job than the 6G's headlights and foglights on at the same time. 18" tires are more expensive than the 17's on the 6G. And easier to curb rash the wheels since you don't have as much tire sidewall. Rear passenger headrests seems to stick up higher, restricting the rear view more.

Overall, very happy with it. My plan it to push it to 300K miles at least.

 

Gotcha. Thanks for the info.

No. I paid just over $50K. I think MSRP was $52K new iirc. It had 8K miles. Of course, I had to pay an extra $1500 in tax because, well, California. But it was less than two others that were very similar. That's a good 15K more than I paid for my 2017 when I bought it as a lease return in March of 2020 with 36K miles. But that's where we're at right now.