ML system works great now! (after replacing all 10 speakers...)....
#61
Did anyone here use a DPS with their install or just tap into factory high lvl inputs?
Also do the sub frequencies roll off with higher volume? I know some cars that do that to protect factory subs.
Also do the sub frequencies roll off with higher volume? I know some cars that do that to protect factory subs.
#62
I was curious, can you post pictures where you ran the wire through the firewall? Was it on driver or passenger side? I'm trying to run 8awg to Driver seat and don't see any grommets...
Thank you.
#63
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I did have to run a positive line from the battery to the subwoofers that I placed under the driver and passenger seats. I ran that from under the drivers seat, through the lower door plastic panels, up to the seat then through a hole in the rear deck (there are several of them if you remove the rear deck paneling, which requires removing the rear seat), then along the underside of the rear deck and down the passenger side paneling in the trunk. I connected it (with a fused line) directly to the positive battery terminal. That was just for power to the under-seat subs. The signal line for the rear subs came from this thread - https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...l#&gid=1&pid=1, pin 6 and 21. You can tap those two for a signal if you have under-seat subs rather than running a line all the way from the back.
Hopefully that's clear. Let me know if I can provide better details.
#64
Thank you so much for the information. I think you have 300h which has battery in trunk vs 350 with battery under the hood.
The rear sub didn't require any wires to be run through the firewall. For the signal, I used the existing rear deck subwoofer lines and simply ran an extension to the amplifier, which I mounted next to the battery in the trunk.
I did have to run a positive line from the battery to the subwoofers that I placed under the driver and passenger seats. I ran that from under the drivers seat, through the lower door plastic panels, up to the seat then through a hole in the rear deck (there are several of them if you remove the rear deck paneling, which requires removing the rear seat), then along the underside of the rear deck and down the passenger side paneling in the trunk. I connected it (with a fused line) directly to the positive battery terminal. That was just for power to the under-seat subs. The signal line for the rear subs came from this thread - https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...l#&gid=1&pid=1, pin 6 and 21. You can tap those two for a signal if you have under-seat subs rather than running a line all the way from the back.
Hopefully that's clear. Let me know if I can provide better details.
I did have to run a positive line from the battery to the subwoofers that I placed under the driver and passenger seats. I ran that from under the drivers seat, through the lower door plastic panels, up to the seat then through a hole in the rear deck (there are several of them if you remove the rear deck paneling, which requires removing the rear seat), then along the underside of the rear deck and down the passenger side paneling in the trunk. I connected it (with a fused line) directly to the positive battery terminal. That was just for power to the under-seat subs. The signal line for the rear subs came from this thread - https://www.clublexus.com/forums/es-...l#&gid=1&pid=1, pin 6 and 21. You can tap those two for a signal if you have under-seat subs rather than running a line all the way from the back.
Hopefully that's clear. Let me know if I can provide better details.
#66
Pit Crew
Thread Starter
I'm curious as to whether or not the toggle setting persists across open/close cycling of the moon/panoramic roof.
If it doesn't that would be a reason for Techstream to not have a procedure for tuning off Active Noise Cancellation (ANC). It's be pointless since the ECU's firmware would just turn it back on during the next open/close cycle of the moon/panoramic roof.
If it doesn't that would be a reason for Techstream to not have a procedure for tuning off Active Noise Cancellation (ANC). It's be pointless since the ECU's firmware would just turn it back on during the next open/close cycle of the moon/panoramic roof.
#67
Hi! To bring this back from the dead...
When you installed the 3.5s... did you need a bracket? Or did everything fit perfectly as it should.
Also, did you need a wire harness? Or did you just + to + and - to - and secure connections?
Thanks!
When you installed the 3.5s... did you need a bracket? Or did everything fit perfectly as it should.
Also, did you need a wire harness? Or did you just + to + and - to - and secure connections?
Thanks!
#68
Also, did you install any extra sound matting or sound insulation in the doors or other areas while you had things apart? If so, did this help with road and wind noise at hwy speeds?
#69
Driver School Candidate
I had Infinity 3.5" 307REF speakers installed over the weekend in the dash corners. No need to obtain brackets, wiring harness or cut opening. Dropped right in. No need for Dynamat or vibration absorbing material. Just attach the wires and crimp them to the speaker leads. Crutchfield has them on sale right now at $75 and if you don't like them, you got 60 days to return, but you won't . See my recent thread.
#72
I'm looking at replacing all the speakers in mine too. Are you guys getting the Kicker and Infinity 3.5s to fit in the upper front doors? Crutchfield's site basically shows that only tweeters will fit in there. Are the factory speakers just smaller versions of what's in the dash?
#73
I'm looking at replacing all the speakers in mine too. Are you guys getting the Kicker and Infinity 3.5s to fit in the upper front doors? Crutchfield's site basically shows that only tweeters will fit in there. Are the factory speakers just smaller versions of what's in the dash?
#74
Ok my dude. please respond.
I swapped out the dash speakers and two 3.5 in front door.
Same speakers.
the Kickers were AWFUL.
They were considerably softer. I tested them ear by ear.
Left one factory in and swapped the other. I'd play music, listen closely, then run to the other side.
Kickers lost by a mile?
What gives? What happened. I wired them correctly (checked polarity of wiring harness and adjusted).
I do not understand. It was so bad, I actually reswapped them all out for the factory speakers.
I swapped out the dash speakers and two 3.5 in front door.
Same speakers.
the Kickers were AWFUL.
They were considerably softer. I tested them ear by ear.
Left one factory in and swapped the other. I'd play music, listen closely, then run to the other side.
Kickers lost by a mile?
What gives? What happened. I wired them correctly (checked polarity of wiring harness and adjusted).
I do not understand. It was so bad, I actually reswapped them all out for the factory speakers.
#75
Ok my dude. please respond.
I swapped out the dash speakers and two 3.5 in front door.
Same speakers.
the Kickers were AWFUL.
They were considerably softer. I tested them ear by ear.
Left one factory in and swapped the other. I'd play music, listen closely, then run to the other side.
Kickers lost by a mile?
What gives? What happened. I wired them correctly (checked polarity of wiring harness and adjusted).
I do not understand. It was so bad, I actually reswapped them all out for the factory speakers.
I swapped out the dash speakers and two 3.5 in front door.
Same speakers.
the Kickers were AWFUL.
They were considerably softer. I tested them ear by ear.
Left one factory in and swapped the other. I'd play music, listen closely, then run to the other side.
Kickers lost by a mile?
What gives? What happened. I wired them correctly (checked polarity of wiring harness and adjusted).
I do not understand. It was so bad, I actually reswapped them all out for the factory speakers.