ES - 7th Gen (2019-present) Discussion topics related to 2019+ ES models

Rock Chip Paint Repair

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Old 05-06-24, 03:39 AM
  #16  
es250fsport
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You mean the paint will expire in a year?
How about the paint on the car?
Does that need redoing?
Originally Posted by DCNY
I used Dr. Colorchip for a rock chip on my driver's side door(2024 ES300H, blue). It worked out fine following the instructions and watching a couple of videos.

Dr. Colorchip says the results won't be body shop perfect. Looking at my repair straight on, you can't see it. You can see it when looking at certain angles and knowing what you're looking for.

I did several passes to build up the paint(as shown in some videos). I bought the basic kit which was $50 with shipping included. Dr. Colorchip says the paint will last about a year, the leveling solution about 3 years.
Old 05-06-24, 03:56 AM
  #17  
DCNY
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The paint in the jar will expire according to DCC. They say nothing about the paint you put on the car.

They say their paint is formulated so it works with their leveling solution, the mfr's paint won't work with their leveling solution. You can buy the paint and leveling solution separately on their site.

Last edited by DCNY; 05-06-24 at 04:14 AM.
Old 05-06-24, 03:59 AM
  #18  
es250fsport
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Does it work on plastic parts like bumper?
Do you need plastic primer first?
Old 05-07-24, 02:57 PM
  #19  
hotwings
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Originally Posted by es250fsport
Does it work on plastic parts like bumper?
Do you need plastic primer first?
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/aut...ic-bumper.html
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Old 05-10-24, 02:58 PM
  #20  
xmlstarks
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Tricky, trying to fix yourself. I tried on my Mercedes with no luck. It looked terrible even with the correct touchup paint. Two choices: Either live with it or have the dealer repaint it and pay the price for perfection. This is especially true if you have one of the special paint colors that we all paid extra for. I have Cloudburst Gray and got a ding the first week. I'm living with it, it's just a fact of life driving on the freeways in America. Oh, and I had her ceramic coated three days after we got home from the dealer.
Old 05-10-24, 04:33 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by xmlstarks
Tricky, trying to fix yourself. I tried on my Mercedes with no luck. It looked terrible even with the correct touchup paint. Two choices: Either live with it or have the dealer repaint it and pay the price for perfection. This is especially true if you have one of the special paint colors that we all paid extra for. I have Cloudburst Gray and got a ding the first week. I'm living with it, it's just a fact of life driving on the freeways in America. Oh, and I had her ceramic coated three days after we got home from the dealer.
Yep, it's not possible to repair rock chips in my paint, which is the Matador Red Mica, so that they disappear. I had some success with my Expedition, which is White Platinum. However, the touch up pen had both the base paint on one end and the clear coat on the other. The base coat was not metallic, the metal flakes are in the clear coat. I thought that was weird. In order to blend it you'd need the base paint to be below the original level, which I was unable to do, then bring it flush with the clear coat. From 3-5' away it looks okay, but not up close.

Rock chips typically have raised edges, which would require sanding to level. We're just going to fill in the chip with touch up paint and call it good. At least that will prevent rust if the chip penetrates down to metal.

No surprise the ceramic didn't prevent your chip.
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Old 05-10-24, 08:33 PM
  #22  
Jersey5974
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Originally Posted by Paddler213
Yep, it's not possible to repair rock chips in my paint, which is the Matador Red Mica, so that they disappear. I had some success with my Expedition, which is White Platinum. However, the touch up pen had both the base paint on one end and the clear coat on the other. The base coat was not metallic, the metal flakes are in the clear coat. I thought that was weird. In order to blend it you'd need the base paint to be below the original level, which I was unable to do, then bring it flush with the clear coat. From 3-5' away it looks okay, but not up close.

Rock chips typically have raised edges, which would require sanding to level. We're just going to fill in the chip with touch up paint and call it good. At least that will prevent rust if the chip penetrates down to metal.

No surprise the ceramic didn't prevent your chip.
Old 05-11-24, 06:58 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Jersey5974
Thanks for posting that. We ordered that file. I'm wondering how one can file off the repair paint but not damage the surrounding paint. Maybe I'll wax the area after the paint and before filing off the nibs. Note also that the paint in the video was solid, not a metallic. I'll be trying this method on my Expedition first.
Old 05-11-24, 07:11 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Paddler213
Thanks for posting that. We ordered that file. I'm wondering how one can file off the repair paint but not damage the surrounding paint. Maybe I'll wax the area after the paint and before filing off the nibs. Note also that the paint in the video was solid, not a metallic. I'll be trying this method on my Expedition first.
After filing, I would compound with a da polisher or a palm sander if you don't have the da. Use a cutting pad. Then ipa wipe, then use a polishing pad on your machine with some finishing polish. Keep it on for 15mins, ipa wipe down, then buff in a ceramic coat or wax. I've been getting into auto detailing for the past couple months and this is generally the process for all paint correction, depending on severity.

Last edited by Jersey5974; 05-11-24 at 07:16 PM.
Old 05-11-24, 08:05 PM
  #25  
es250fsport
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Anyone tried this method on silver Lexus paint?
If I buy the DR Colour-chip paint and order hardener separately, would that work?
Is the DR Colour chip paint compatible with hardener?
Originally Posted by Jersey5974
Old 05-12-24, 12:46 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Paddler213
Got couple of tiny rock chips on the hood of our new 300h. Given the self-healing clear coat, what's the best way to repair them?
I just got a touch up pen from the dealership, 12 bucks.
Old 05-12-24, 07:43 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Jersey5974
After filing, I would compound with a da polisher or a palm sander if you don't have the da. Use a cutting pad. Then ipa wipe, then use a polishing pad on your machine with some finishing polish. Keep it on for 15mins, ipa wipe down, then buff in a ceramic coat or wax. I've been getting into auto detailing for the past couple months and this is generally the process for all paint correction, depending on severity.
I tried the file on my Expedition and it scratche the surrounding paint. Not sure why as the video doesn't show any scratching at all. I may tape around the chips to hopefully prevent that. It doesn't look good right now as the paint looks globbed on. But also the touch up paint itself looks darker than it should.

I'm using a drill with these 3" pads, but am not sure which one to use:

Amazon Amazon


and Turtle Wax Clean Cut Rubbing Compund.

I have a 5" random orbit sander but the seems like overkill.
Old 05-12-24, 08:03 PM
  #28  
Jersey5974
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Originally Posted by Paddler213
I tried the file on my Expedition and it scratche the surrounding paint. Not sure why as the video doesn't show any scratching at all. I may tape around the chips to hopefully prevent that. It doesn't look good right now as the paint looks globbed on. But also the touch up paint itself looks darker than it should.

I'm using a drill with these 3" pads, but am not sure which one to use:

https://www.amazon.com/Kshineni-Buff...hlbWF0aWM&th=1


and Turtle Wax Clean Cut Rubbing Compund.

I have a 5" random orbit sander but the seems like overkill.
Have pics? You probably just need.to sand it flat, then start the buffing process. Make sure to dampen the heavy compounding pad then put on a few dots of compound. You run the risk of heating up area with a drill, so make sure to go slow with breaks until it's uniform. Then polish out any of the marring.
Old 06-04-24, 07:48 PM
  #29  
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Yeah I just had to use some touch up paint on the rear door. Obviously used Toyota/Lexus brand. Came out well!
Old 06-05-24, 07:42 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Jersey5974
Have pics? You probably just need.to sand it flat, then start the buffing process. Make sure to dampen the heavy compounding pad then put on a few dots of compound. You run the risk of heating up area with a drill, so make sure to go slow with breaks until it's uniform. Then polish out any of the marring.
I have done two chips. I put a single layer of Scotch tape around each to prevent the file from damaging the surrounding paint. Then on the first one I used 1500 wet or dry sandpaper followed by 2500, then the rubbing compound followed by the polishing compound. I just wrapped the sandpaper around my index finger, which led to a bit of dishing out the clear coat a bit. So on the second I super glued the 1500 and 2500 paper to small blocks of wood. That prevented dishing and damaging the surrounding paint, but also didn't allow me to sand the touch up paint flush with the Scotch tape in place. Think I'll leave it that way, as it's okay from 3' away. Not perfect, but okay.

I find it interesting that the video shows the file lets him file the repair down flush without scratching the surrounding paint, as when I tried it on my Expedition it did scratch the entire area. That's why I taped around the chip. The file is fairly coarse, even on the fine side. I don't see how he was able to not scratch the surrounding paint. In the future I may just carefully apply the paint and call it good.
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