… on my 2024 ES300h, at 5200 miles 4 months out of the Georgetown factory. I have read quite a bit about oil change experiences, good and bad, on CL, and I thought I would donate my 2 cents:
First off, it’s a piece of cake DIY oil change. Two Harbor Freight jackstands, 30 bucks on sale. Open a cowl (4 hexheads) and a good part of the lower engine is exposed.
The old oil: drained it hot. No gas dilution smell. No glitter, as some have reported. Oil filter is easy on, easy off. Need WalMart adapter tool and a 3/8 ratchet.
Used 4 3/4 quarts of Mobil1 O16. Beautiful oil!
Boring this far. Now for the (barely) interesting part. I carefully cut the oil filter open, completely stretched out the “accordion” media, found minimal amounts of metallic particulate. Upon full “unfurling” I swept the media with a magnet thoroughly. 50% ferrous metal, the rest, aluminum. Nothing big or no great quantity. A small sliver of silicone gasket.
I fully expect the next oil change to yield no particulate at all. Though I always change the filter, sometimes I wonder how much “work” an oil filter does.
Maybe my essay will bring peace of mind to others, especially when we read of clogged oil passages, etc. A Happy Fourth to all!

 

Good work.
I think on the next oil change you will get much less metal in the filter.

 

Did you generate metal particles when you cut open the filter?

 

Are you placing the HF jackstands (These I assume) on the knife edge of the pinchweld?
I struggled with getting the right stand/adapter combo that wouldn't distort or damage anything including the plastic rocker panel trim. Sounds like yours was a nice cheap solution.

 

artbuc, yes, I used a very fine blade hacksaw and did generate metal particulate. However, that minimal amount did not make it anywhere close to the bottom of the media folds. It was also dry, and the particulate I was looking for was wet.
While we’re on the subject, does anyone out there know of a tool to cut open oil filters conveniently? I think I’m going to make this a habit. My wife and sons already think that dad is a bit of an oddball (with things mechanical) and I want to continue to meet their expectations!

 

5,400 is too late, but better than nothing. (for a 1st change)

On my past ES300hs (both brand new 2021s) I changed at 500 miles on one, and 850 ish on another.

Someone out there got lucky and found two engines that will last an extra long time.

 

Sorry I’m late to get back to you, hot wings. Here’s how I supported my ES: I jacked the car up with my 50 year old Hein Werner floor jack, using the “front and center” jacking point as described in the Owner’s Manual. IMO, this is the only jacking point to use for an oil change, where my body is directly underneath the car. I place the HF jackstands under both lower A frames, the nub on the jackstand saddle fits nicely into the pocket directly under the lower ball joint. (No, I don’t use the pinchwelds at all) I vacate the floor jack and occupy that space with my body and the drain pan. I am also in the habit of setting up my floorjack somewhere else under the car for added safety. By the way, I let my oil drain overnight. My family thinks I’m a bit odd, and I don’t want to disappoint.

I should also mention, those $30 stands are sufficient, though I wouldn’t trust them on a ‘59 Cadillac. Be safe, friend!

 

I’m assuming you changed the oil yourself. I’m curious: Did you find anything untoward with the oil and/or filter? Glitter? Gasoline?

 

Yes I did it myself.

i didn't look. Im guessing like you, I would've found metal stuff, which is to be expected of a new engine. So the act of viewing glitter alone would have no meaning to me. so therefore i didn't want to spend any time on that but instead focus on getting old oil out and new oil in.