2019 ES350 Best prices paid so far?
#136
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I don't know the history of Lexus pricing, but read a lot here.
I went into the dealer today and told him that I'd be willing to wait until December unless the price is right. And I got "corrected" and he told me the summer sales event is better. Is that even remotely true?
I went into the dealer today and told him that I'd be willing to wait until December unless the price is right. And I got "corrected" and he told me the summer sales event is better. Is that even remotely true?
#137
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I don't know the history of Lexus pricing, but read a lot here.
I went into the dealer today and told him that I'd be willing to wait until December unless the price is right. And I got "corrected" and he told me the summer sales event is better. Is that even remotely true?
I went into the dealer today and told him that I'd be willing to wait until December unless the price is right. And I got "corrected" and he told me the summer sales event is better. Is that even remotely true?
Anyone with a brain can tell you that the deals on 2019s will be better after the 2020s are out. However, the selection of 2019s are much better now.
#138
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Unless you convince them to see the light on that used car, they`ll throw lines at yah such as its a new car with barely any use, or its never been titled so its a new car. Plug it into some major used car databases and see what they return as a fair market value. If they get at or below that price fine.
HOWEVER, majority of times, those event used demo vehicles never price better then an equivalent remaining new stock vehicle. The bottom on the market right is now 15-16% with purchase cash only. If you can negotiate the odds are with yah. Remember to also make sure what fees are being added, as certain locations love to number pad.
HOWEVER, majority of times, those event used demo vehicles never price better then an equivalent remaining new stock vehicle. The bottom on the market right is now 15-16% with purchase cash only. If you can negotiate the odds are with yah. Remember to also make sure what fees are being added, as certain locations love to number pad.
Sorry if this is a dumb question, but you wrote "15-16% with purchase cash only." So does that mean 15-16% off the MSRP or 15-16% off the MSRP plus the Lexus rebate for paying with cash. My first quote was 9% off MSRP, but with Lexus cash rebate it is 13%.
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raiders3 (04-29-20)
#139
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Although, you are right, in my area the Lexus I want is thinning out. I really don't want Navigation and most out them out there seem to have it.
#140
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That seems true for 300h's and F-Sports, but I don't see any ES 350s (Base, L or UL) in this thread for less than 12% to 13% off.
Also, you typically need to employ competitive bidding tactics to get prices in this range . Most people pay more for their ESs because they don't have the motivation and/or skill to bargain down to these prices.
Also, you typically need to employ competitive bidding tactics to get prices in this range . Most people pay more for their ESs because they don't have the motivation and/or skill to bargain down to these prices.
So I have the motivation, but do you have any "skills" or tips you can give me? Do I basically let these people bid it out? Best to go in or all by phone? What works for you?
#141
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DavidZ - you seem to have a lot of knowledge - so can I pick you brain? I agree with your early August statement that I quoted above. My current price for a base is 10% off MSRP less discounts. I've talked to two dealers so far - one dealer - I made 2 visits and they gave me 9% and the other dealer I started with their internet department and shared the 9%, so that quoted 10%. Both before any rebate. I've going to call another dealer on the other side of the state as well.
So I have the motivation, but do you have any "skills" or tips you can give me?
Do I basically let these people bid it out? Best to go in or all by phone? What works for you?
Also, before you decide on the dealer, ask them (by email) for a preliminary bill of sale for the car. That's to give you some degree of confidence they won't hit you with surprise "dealer fees, etc." when you get there. If they do that (and that's always a possibility with car dealers), then you whip the drat bill of sale and say "no dice, we had a deal" and stand your ground. Keep your options open to go back to the other competitive dealer who perhaps won't pull that stuff on you.
#142
Lead Lap
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DavidZ - you seem to have a lot of knowledge - so can I pick you brain? I agree with your early August statement that I quoted above. My current price for a base is 10% off MSRP less discounts. I've talked to two dealers so far - one dealer - I made 2 visits and they gave me 9% and the other dealer I started with their internet department and shared the 9%, so that quoted 10%. Both before any rebate. I've going to call another dealer on the other side of the state as well.
So I have the motivation, but do you have any "skills" or tips you can give me? Do I basically let these people bid it out? Best to go in or all by phone? What works for you?
So I have the motivation, but do you have any "skills" or tips you can give me? Do I basically let these people bid it out? Best to go in or all by phone? What works for you?
"I would start by selecting all of the Lexus dealerships within, say, 200 miles of your location. Even if you would be reluctant to travel that far to buy the vehicle, starting with a larger number of dealerships allows you to begin with more negotiating leverage. Then, send identical emails to the internet sales departments of all of those dealers.
In the email, make several things clear. First, tell them, in as much detail as you can, what vehicle you are looking for, what packages you want, and what major options you are interested in. Then, let them know that you are sending the same email to all of those dealers, that you are prepared to buy immediately, and that you will buy from the dealer that makes the best offer.
You will likely get proposals from most, but possibly not all, of those dealerships. Take the best offer, and send that to the other dealers that responded to your initial email, and ask them if they are interested in trying to beat that offer. Then, take the best of those second round offers and repeat the process. After repeating the same process a couple of times, within a couple of days you should have a very good idea about where the floor of the market is.
When you get down to 2 or 3 dealers, that is when you need to start looking at the offer proposals that they sent you very carefully to make sure that doc fees are reasonable, that processing fees for the title and license are reasonable, and that there are no hidden fees, dealer add-ons or options, etc.
If you have a trade-in, you should even be able to get a firm offer for that trade-in. First, use the websites of Edmunds and KBB to determine a fair value for your trade-in. Then, send pictures of your car to the dealership. If that dealership is really interested in getting your business, they will make a fair and firm offer on the trade-in. It is important, though, that you do not bring the trade-in into the discussion until after you have locked in an offer on the new vehicle.
An important part of the process is to get a price locked in for the new vehicle (and trade-in) via email and phone discussions before you set foot in the dealership. Until you have set foot in the dealership, you are the one who is in control of the situation. Once you are at the dealership and have started to negotiate a price at the dealership, you have given up a good portion of that control to the dealership.
I've found that dealerships are quite competitive with regard to internet sales. I've bought my last 2 vehicles using the method described above. I've found that that method is less stressful, and it has yielded prices that I could not have gotten by physically visiting multiple dealerships and negotiating pricing at the dealerships. I've come to believe that, with more traditional methods of buying a car, it isn't likely that I would ever know how low the floor of the market is. I'll never buy another car any other way."
#143
Driver School Candidate
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I'm a Lexus salesrep.
The customers that get the best deals are typically repeat buyers, ones that are local, and will spend money in our service department.
Too many times we get internet leads, calls and emails, I go to the desk asking for pricing, and I do send you the pricing you requested, but it's not our BEST deal, especially if after we sell you the car we never see you again. Less chance of referrals and repeat business later on.
The customers that get the best deals are typically repeat buyers, ones that are local, and will spend money in our service department.
Too many times we get internet leads, calls and emails, I go to the desk asking for pricing, and I do send you the pricing you requested, but it's not our BEST deal, especially if after we sell you the car we never see you again. Less chance of referrals and repeat business later on.
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raiders3 (04-29-20)
#144
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I'm a Lexus salesrep.
The customers that get the best deals are typically repeat buyers, ones that are local, and will spend money in our service department.
Too many times we get internet leads, calls and emails, I go to the desk asking for pricing, and I do send you the pricing you requested, but it's not our BEST deal, especially if after we sell you the car we never see you again. Less chance of referrals and repeat business later on.
The customers that get the best deals are typically repeat buyers, ones that are local, and will spend money in our service department.
Too many times we get internet leads, calls and emails, I go to the desk asking for pricing, and I do send you the pricing you requested, but it's not our BEST deal, especially if after we sell you the car we never see you again. Less chance of referrals and repeat business later on.
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raiders3 (04-29-20)
#145
![Default](https://www.clublexus.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm a Lexus salesrep.
The customers that get the best deals are typically repeat buyers, ones that are local, and will spend money in our service department.
Too many times we get internet leads, calls and emails, I go to the desk asking for pricing, and I do send you the pricing you requested, but it's not our BEST deal, especially if after we sell you the car we never see you again. Less chance of referrals and repeat business later on.
The customers that get the best deals are typically repeat buyers, ones that are local, and will spend money in our service department.
Too many times we get internet leads, calls and emails, I go to the desk asking for pricing, and I do send you the pricing you requested, but it's not our BEST deal, especially if after we sell you the car we never see you again. Less chance of referrals and repeat business later on.
#146
Lead Lap
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I'm a Lexus salesrep.
The customers that get the best deals are typically repeat buyers, ones that are local, and will spend money in our service department.
Too many times we get internet leads, calls and emails, I go to the desk asking for pricing, and I do send you the pricing you requested, but it's not our BEST deal, especially if after we sell you the car we never see you again. Less chance of referrals and repeat business later on.
The customers that get the best deals are typically repeat buyers, ones that are local, and will spend money in our service department.
Too many times we get internet leads, calls and emails, I go to the desk asking for pricing, and I do send you the pricing you requested, but it's not our BEST deal, especially if after we sell you the car we never see you again. Less chance of referrals and repeat business later on.
Considering the source of those kinds of suggestions, I'm skeptical, and I'd guess that they have reasons other than getting customers the best deals possible for trying to steer customers away from using the internet to generate competition between dealers.
#147
#148
Driver School Candidate
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Everyone's idea of a deal is different. Say we offer $6k off, how will the managers know he or she wouldn't have closed at $5k off?
Don't get me wrong, there are instances with internet customers that they do get our best deal up front, but the best example I have of that is they forward me the quote from the dealer that is south of us and only a 5 min longer drive. So we beat their price.
A general rule of thumb I tell my friends and family when they are car shopping is that their out the door should be less than the MSRP. If after taxes and fees you are paying over sticker, there's greater probability of negative equity in the future.
Don't get me wrong, there are instances with internet customers that they do get our best deal up front, but the best example I have of that is they forward me the quote from the dealer that is south of us and only a 5 min longer drive. So we beat their price.
A general rule of thumb I tell my friends and family when they are car shopping is that their out the door should be less than the MSRP. If after taxes and fees you are paying over sticker, there's greater probability of negative equity in the future.
#149
Lead Lap
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Everyone's idea of a deal is different. Say we offer $6k off, how will the managers know he or she wouldn't have closed at $5k off?
Don't get me wrong, there are instances with internet customers that they do get our best deal up front, but the best example I have of that is they forward me the quote from the dealer that is south of us and only a 5 min longer drive. So we beat their price.
A general rule of thumb I tell my friends and family when they are car shopping is that their out the door should be less than the MSRP. If after taxes and fees you are paying over sticker, there's greater probability of negative equity in the future.
Don't get me wrong, there are instances with internet customers that they do get our best deal up front, but the best example I have of that is they forward me the quote from the dealer that is south of us and only a 5 min longer drive. So we beat their price.
A general rule of thumb I tell my friends and family when they are car shopping is that their out the door should be less than the MSRP. If after taxes and fees you are paying over sticker, there's greater probability of negative equity in the future.
I unfortunately still believe that the best advice when purchasing or leasing is being as close to equal grounds in regards to the information surrounding a deal. Walking into a dealership without any knowledge of lease/finance rates, established pricing rates, and dealership only fees (some states have some ridiculous fees) is not the best thing to do. At the end of the day, a customers best interest is served best by the customer. While this may sound like a pretty terrible thing to say, I think it also in the best interests of sales rep as a) no time wasting time on educating a customer. b) customers dont have inflated expecations c) more time to spend on dealing with on the floor customers.
Those are dealer discounts + purchase cash that Lexus is giving if you do not use Lexus Financial Services
#150
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The customer wants to pay the lowest price possible. However, the customer is at a significant disadvantage when it comes to knowledge and complexity of the transaction.
A general rule of thumb I tell my friends and family when they are car shopping is that their out the door should be less than the MSRP. If after taxes and fees you are paying over sticker, there's greater probability of negative equity in the future.