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Mods: Can this thread be stickied? Was actually looking to start this thread the other day. This is great. usually stickied in other models sub forums. I would like to add stuff to here.
Pre-wired the ES for subwoofer, disabled ANC via software. Pre-wiring took about an hour. I did a lot of research, purchased the TIS tech docs, and consulted with Crutchfield. So the research took quite a bit to provide you guys with a write up on how to wire a sub to your 10-speaker standard audio system. I will look into the same for the ML system as well. (shouldn't be much different)
PS--based on the wiring schematics for ML, the harness and wire colors and wire positions appear identical to the 10-speaker standard, at least to wire the sub to the stock sub output.
Just waiting for my all-in-one subwoofer to arrive so I can plug my wires in--all ready to go!
Can you post the wiring configuration? I have a Fosgate 5 channel amp I’m going to install in my 2021 ES350 without the Mark Levinson sound.
Email: tsmith11166269@yahoo.com
Yes when I have time some time this weekend. Whats your plan with the 5 channels? The stock amp internally crosses both front channels based on a single input for the fronts L/R which outputs two four front channels. So all four channels of your aftermarket amp will have to run the fronts independently, unless you want to delete the dash speakers. (based on my understanding of the wiring)
the rear speakers would not get any love (which personally i don't mind)
I swapped out the dim stock LEDs for some nice bright ones. Trunk as well. Way way way brighter... i was disappointed at how dim the stock ones were. as if there was no light at all. especially the trunk.
I went through a journey of lowering my car to reduce the wheel gap. My main goal was to have an even gap in the front and rear since the stock setup has a larger gap in the front.
I first lowered the front with RSR springs but realized it was too low. There was barely enough room to pull the low-profile floor jack out.
After doing some research, I decided to try the OEM springs for the TRD Avalon in the front. This lowered the front by .5" and resulted in a perfectly even gap with the rear. It's a subtle difference, but the ride quality is so much better than with the RSR.
I went through a journey of lowering my car to reduce the wheel gap. My main goal was to have an even gap in the front and rear since the stock setup has a larger gap in the front.
I first lowered the front with RSR springs but realized it was too low. There was barely enough room to pull the low-profile floor jack out.
After doing some research, I decided to try the OEM springs for the TRD Avalon in the front. This lowered the front by .5" and resulted in a perfectly even gap with the rear. It's a subtle difference, but the ride quality is so much better than with the RSR.
Here are some pics: Lowered with RSR in the front
Lowered with TRD in the front
Is there a ride difference with the Avalon springs than the stock ones though that you can tell?
no the door panel does not need to be removed. you need to take a plastic pry tool and pry the plastic lens out. they pry only one way though, so careful not to break them. the driver side prys from the front, and passenger from the rear.
these bulbs are not made for this application, and takes a bit of "jerry rigging" to work. basically insert the prongs (reverse it if it doesn't work the first time) and wrap electrical tape so its secure. i bent the pins outward a bit so they form a tight fit in the recepticle)
you'll have to remove the stock LED plastic unit completely to make room for the new LED panel. they're extremely bright. a panel w/ less leds may exist so consider that before you buy these.
also fitting them to the stock plastic lens (these exact panels) work nicely, but you have to be very deliberate how you fit it in. it forms a perfect fit but i had to persuade it with a screwdriver. it's locked in place and not going anywhere. lay the led panel down flat at the bottom of the lens.
for the trunk lens, tape will be required to hold the panel down.
so this mod isn't for your average person... don't expect "oh this is made for my ES" type fit. Cause they're not made for your ES. It's more of an enthusiast type mod as it requires some slight "customization"
The ride quality is almost the same as the stock F Sport springs.
Visually, the TRD springs were much shorter - probably about 1.5".
Once installed, they only dropped the front about .5".
They're really cheap also. I got the front pair for $78 from the local Toyota dealer (part # PTR62-07200-FR).
Triple sealed the brand new paint. Less than 50 miles.
Also I believe the Kentucky Lexus plant where these are built have a serious issue with the front driver and passenger side glass having vertical etching. Perhaps it has to do with some coating that's rubbing on the felt strip as the window goes down?
I think it's only something few may notice as I'm a detail enthusiast and car enthusiast generally, but this has happened on both 2021 ESs I've had where the front two side windows have vertical streaks/permanent etching that can't be cleaned by hand. I could never get the two front side windows perfect. Always etching with hazing. The etching is so aggressive you can feel it with your finger nails, very subtly.
Luckily I have a polishing machine and M105 meguiars and the glass is now smooth as... well... glass. Super pristine now. Picture perfect how I like it. but before I'd wipe it and no matter how much i'd clean it, with any product, it would have straight vertical lines, particularly in bright light and immediate hazing. Someone, somewhere is messing up this glass along the production, assembly, or maybe manufacturing. With my first ES I thought it was a fluke but when I saw my 2nd ES had this, I knew it wasn't by chance.
Most people would not notice though.
Anyway did multi-day multi-stage triple seal using ceramic consumer products and mothers. I'm happy enough.
Also I believe the Kentucky Lexus plant where these are built have a serious issue with the front driver and passenger side glass having vertical etching. Perhaps it has to do with some coating that's rubbing on the felt strip as the window goes down?
Ironically, my 2021 RX has these same subtle vertical striations in the glass. But only the front two windows. The rear windows are completely clear. It was built at the Ontario plant for what its worth. I haven't brought it to the attention of the dealer as it is minor enough that many people wouldn't even notice it. I thought it was just my OCD coming out so I'm intrigued to hear someone else has noticed it on another Lexus model.
Ironically, my 2021 RX has these same subtle vertical striations in the glass. But only the front two windows. The rear windows are completely clear. It was built at the Ontario plant for what its worth. I haven't brought it to the attention of the dealer as it is minor enough that many people wouldn't even notice it. I thought it was just my OCD coming out so I'm intrigued to hear someone else has noticed it on another Lexus model.
Good to know I'm not the only one. So maybe it's a supplier issue, rather than a factory one. Or even a design issue, coating not curing, etc. It must be a coating.
What I'd recommend is take a dual action polisher (don't worry it's safe and won't damage your glass or paint), a fine cutting pad (so it's gentle) which the polisher comes with on Amazon, and some Meguiars M105 polish. 5-10 min per side and the striations will be gone. Glass (and paint for that matter) should feel absolutely silky and perfect. Also my passenger window had a diagonal scuff on it like someone leaned up against it with a steel wool covered pole. Not enough to notice when walking around a dealer light shopping for cars, but enough to notice when you wipe the glass and you see the residue/marks or if you look at it in a certain light.
The polisher is cheap and is a good addition to anyones garage. superb for paint. if interested i can show the one i got.
03-26-21, 09:01 AM
