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The capacity of the battery was 96% so I decided to balance the cells, clean everything, change the position of the inside and outside cells, and the result is:
"You seen it here first, first in the world, only me and nobody else..."
Originally Posted by ESh
The heat is the main killer of the hybrid battery. When there's too hot in the cabin (no AC), the fan is not able to cool the battery, or if the fan/channels between the modules/filter is/are clogged, the battery will stay hot and it will overheat. When the battery overheats, the modules, especially the middle ones experience thermal stress. When the battery overheats, the ICE will run all the time and the fuel consumption will go up and it will stay like that until the battery cools down. There is an ECU that monitors the module temperature, on the top of the battery they are 3 sensors, one on the left, one in the middle and one on the right. Also, there's the 4th one that monitors the intake air temperature, just after the fan.
You need to know that the NIMH battery overheats very quickly, especially under the full charge/discharge if the cooling system is not OK (during the charge 90% of the regenerated energy goes inside the battery, 10% converts to heat).
Now, when the modules go through thermal stress, they tend to inflate so the channels between them get smaller so very little air will pass, it will drastically decrease the cooling capacity. At that moment, the liquid electrolytes that is inside the modules will start to leak (very very small amount) which will create corrosion on the bus bars as soon as it meets with oxygen, which will increase the resistance.
And then, there's a capacity reduction. The module has 6 cells inside ( 1 2 3 4 5 6 ). Charging will stop when one of them gets to 100%. At that moment, some of them may be at 95%, 92%...also the discharging will stop when one of them reaches 40%, at that moment some of the cells may be much higher (a lot of energy that cannot be used which means reduced capacity).
What I did?
I cleaned the bus bars/bolts/nuts so there will not be any resistance (first, I put them in vinegar for 10-15 minutes and then I polish them with 2000 grit;
I cleaned the fan, the intake, the modules so there will not be any dust/restriction;
All the modules that were trapped in the middle now are outside and they can relax a bit, and all the modules that were outside now are inside ready to roll;
I balanced the cells inside the modules by levelling the energy percentage inside them;
Corroded bus bar:
Cleaned bus bars and nuts:
Fan:
I hope I was able to explain the situation.
Originally Posted by ESh
Every leather piece cleaned and shielded. The best product I ever used.
We all wish our car get serviced by this guy at the dealership LOL
You change your oil every 500 miles sir, hehe?
Man I wish I can do what you do on my cars.
Honestly very impressed with that lip + fit and finish for $188.
i would recommend
as for the side skirts in 3pc I would have to not recommend , I may glue them and do body work to make them seem less, but it might be more cost effective to just buy a 1 Pc version for more money
Less than $1k, but still overpriced IMHO. Other parts (Illuminated Door Sills) prices appears almost 150% higher. So I would like to have the part # to compare online prices.
Exactly, I changed out my oil & filter at my Independent Lexus mechanic/owner's shop at 1,000 and have done it again at about 6,000 miles with Liqui Moly 0W16 Special Tec AA oil and an OEM Toyota filter just like The Car Care Nut recommends on YT. He has a 2022 Camry hybrid and I watched his video where he changed out the factory oil & filter at about 1,000 miles. I change the oil & filter in my wife's XC-40 T5 Volvo (Liqui Moly, as well 0W20) and now my 2023 ES300h Ultra Luxury every 5,000 miles or six-months, whichever occurs first. Oil & filters are cheap, engines are expensive. LOL