Toyota says the 0w-16 is Mobil 1.

 

There have been previous posts by CL members who have asked the service adviser what brand of oil was used for oil changes at the dealer. Answers ranged from "I don't know" to
Mobil One, "a private brand", Quaker State, and others. All falling under the most comprehensive "Toyota Motor Oil"... One member watched oil being pulled from an unbranded 55 gallon drum... Dealer service advisers are not known for their veracity or knowledge of automobiles. Ask member Poppa who was asked if he wanted a differential service for his ES350...

Decide for yourself...

 

Yeah it's hard cause manufacturers switch up oil suppliers all the time. For example BMW used to run Castrol then they switched to Shell. Shell is also what Ferrari uses. Porsche & Mercedes uses Mobil 1. Subaru uses Idemitsu. Lexus uses Mobil 1 for the LFA. but not sure about other models.

Today though all oil is good, even Walmart Supertech. brand doesn't matter like it did 15-20 years ago.

 

Change it often and it won't matter what brand it is. That's what my neighbor told me who ran Dodge Caravans (multiple ones) upwards of 350K miles on SuperTech - he owned a messenger service.

 

+1 - agree with this...

 

Thanks for the advice, I thought about changing the oil myself, but I will do as you said. I usually use Castrol GTX Ultraclean Conventional 5W-30 or Castrol edge 5W-30. I want to learn how to change the oil myself, as this is a simple procedure that can be done in the garage, here https://davesoilchange.com/5w-30-oil-guide/ you can see Best 5W-30 Oil, this information is very useful, because what is written here about the benefits of certain oils and oil drain intervals.

 

I used to be a Fleet Manager with over 450 vehicles. It's easy to get high miles on fleet vehicles that are driven relatively high miles in relatively short time periods, as compared to our personal vehicles. We had many Caravans in our fleet. They were just OK regarding reliability and longevity.

Changing one's oil according to the manufacturer's recommendation is key, but I also recommend quality oil and filters. I only recommend one change their own oil if one is a good mechanic. Otherwise, leave it to the professional grease-monkeys!

 

To those who change your own oil, did you guys remove the plastic piece that protected the oil filter? I am thinking to remove it completely because I don't want to remove all the pins and bolts when every time I changing the oil. What is your thought on that?

 

I think it's a good idea. I had a 2013 WITHOUT the shield and it was a breeze to change the oil. Took no more than 20-25 minutes. Never an issue without the shield and plan to keep the one on my 2019 off as well...

 

Haha we used to have a similar discussion back in the day on the BMW boards about a plastic shield, removing it, not removing it etc.

Definitely keep it in place. That's not even debatable. You start creating turbulence by creating a void and getting air where it's not supposed to and you're flushing all the engineering effort down the drain. Cars 15 years ago were carefully engineered by the help of supercomputers and analyzing plots of flow and collecting data over to the finest detail over several thousand points on a car's body... now imagine today where manufacturer's will avoid spending an extra penny if they have to.

Not to mention all the extra noise you're introducing by catching turbulent air (and ambient sound) being thrown up into the engine bay in front of the passenger compartment. To those who drive with theirs missing, and say they don't notice it any downsides, that piece is part of the package that is the underbody cladding and the above is being affected. All modern cars especially the price of an ES and higher have flat/sealed underbodies to help with aero and NVH. It's all a package.

It's worth the extra effort of removing the "pins and bolts" during an oil change in order to drive your car as it was designed.

 

Changed oil yesterday on 2020 ES300h and 4 bolts no pins to remove cover. If I had used my air ratchet it would have taken less than a minute. Agree with keeping cover on

 

f-sport comes with 3 pins and 2 bolts you have to remove in order to access the oil filter. I only removed 3 pins and 1 bolt.

 

Nahhh... It's coming off for me...

 

My personal impression has long been that everybody obsesses more than they need about oil changes, yet gives less attention than they should to transmission fluid changes. I'd bet a lot more powertrains fail with the original fill of ATF in them than with low-priced but faithfully changed motor oil.

 

It's a great debate. I work with a guy whose 305k Elantra has the original ATF. Another whose 250k 4runner has the original ATF.