Removing that stubborn crank pulley (harmonic balancer)
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
Removing that stubborn crank pulley (harmonic balancer)
Ok, there have been some threads dealing with timing belt removal and the removal of the crankshaft pulley and bolt. However, I wanted to add some detail and focus on that stubborn crankshaft bolt. These are all "lessons learned" that I wanted to share. Hopefully it will help some poor soul who is struggling through the same issues.
Starting with the crankshaft bolt, which is torqued to 181 ft-lbs...it can be quite a chore to get that bolt loosened. There are basically three ways to accomplish the removal:
I chose to use an impact wrench. Here's why: I just did not want to shell out the money for the special holding tool (~$60) and the starter "bump" was somewhat unnerving to me. Besides, I could buy another cool tool for the garage that might be handy in other situations.
What does it take as far as impact wrench capabilities and compressor to unloosen that bolt? Good question!
I have a pneumatic impact wrench that I have owned for years and is rated at 260 ft-lbs. I tried that on the bolt. Ha. The bolt just laughed at me. Then I bought an Ingersol-Rand (good brand) for $150 which is rated at 500 ft-lbs. Again, just laughter. The bolt would NOT budge.
I began to wonder if the problem was not with my compressor, a Porter Cable "Pancake" air compressor. Small but fairly powerful, it is rated 5.3 CFM@ 90PSI. Well, undaunted, I decided to find another impact wrench...this time a Harbor Freight (Central Pneumatic) brand. I know, cheap, but hey, they are all made in China anyway, even the Ingersal-Rand!. I knew I would need some "beefiness" so I went with a 3/4" drive rated 1000 ft-lbs with 7 CFM @90 PSI. Was it my compressor or the impact wrench or my 50 ft of 3/8" ID air hose? I was bound and determined to find out. And with that setup, the bolt zipped right off! The Harbor Freight impact wrench was impressive for $95. I think I will keep it.
All for now. I will follow with hints on removing the pulley. The picture shows the difference in my first impact wrench and the Harbor Freight brand. Also shown is the crank pulley bolt. Quit a hefty sized bolt. You can see why it takes such force.
Starting with the crankshaft bolt, which is torqued to 181 ft-lbs...it can be quite a chore to get that bolt loosened. There are basically three ways to accomplish the removal:
- Use a special holding tool.
- bump" the starter.
- Use an impact wrench.
I chose to use an impact wrench. Here's why: I just did not want to shell out the money for the special holding tool (~$60) and the starter "bump" was somewhat unnerving to me. Besides, I could buy another cool tool for the garage that might be handy in other situations.
What does it take as far as impact wrench capabilities and compressor to unloosen that bolt? Good question!
I have a pneumatic impact wrench that I have owned for years and is rated at 260 ft-lbs. I tried that on the bolt. Ha. The bolt just laughed at me. Then I bought an Ingersol-Rand (good brand) for $150 which is rated at 500 ft-lbs. Again, just laughter. The bolt would NOT budge.
I began to wonder if the problem was not with my compressor, a Porter Cable "Pancake" air compressor. Small but fairly powerful, it is rated 5.3 CFM@ 90PSI. Well, undaunted, I decided to find another impact wrench...this time a Harbor Freight (Central Pneumatic) brand. I know, cheap, but hey, they are all made in China anyway, even the Ingersal-Rand!. I knew I would need some "beefiness" so I went with a 3/4" drive rated 1000 ft-lbs with 7 CFM @90 PSI. Was it my compressor or the impact wrench or my 50 ft of 3/8" ID air hose? I was bound and determined to find out. And with that setup, the bolt zipped right off! The Harbor Freight impact wrench was impressive for $95. I think I will keep it.
All for now. I will follow with hints on removing the pulley. The picture shows the difference in my first impact wrench and the Harbor Freight brand. Also shown is the crank pulley bolt. Quit a hefty sized bolt. You can see why it takes such force.
Last edited by randal; 07-15-12 at 04:58 PM.
#2
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
With the crank bolt removed, I tackled the pulling of the harmonic balancer off of the crankshaft. Now, you can "rent" a puller kit from Autozone for $20, which is what I did. Actually, it costs nothing because when (if?) you return the kit, they will fully refund your money. Nice deal.
Wouldn't you know, none of the bolts in the kit would fit my harmonic balancer threads! The kit bolts were all too large. Did I get the wrong kit? A trip back to Autozone said "no" because there was no smaller bolts. So, taking a spare bolt from my junk box and browsing at the local Ace Hardware store, I determined that the bolts were 8MM diameter, 1.25 MM pitch. I settled on 8MM dia., 1.25 MM pitch and 70 MM length (roughly 3 inches long). Those worked great.
I threaded the pulley puller onto the harmonic balancer and, in no time, had the balancer off of the crankshaft. Below are pics of the kit, puller and bolts that I purchased(off to the right side). Note that you should use the bullnose attachment on the end of the large bolt to keep from damaging the crank bolt hole threads.
My harmonic balancer came off fairly easily without much fuss. In all of this, remember, you may have to purchase separate bolts from a hardware store as the kit may come up short.
Wouldn't you know, none of the bolts in the kit would fit my harmonic balancer threads! The kit bolts were all too large. Did I get the wrong kit? A trip back to Autozone said "no" because there was no smaller bolts. So, taking a spare bolt from my junk box and browsing at the local Ace Hardware store, I determined that the bolts were 8MM diameter, 1.25 MM pitch. I settled on 8MM dia., 1.25 MM pitch and 70 MM length (roughly 3 inches long). Those worked great.
I threaded the pulley puller onto the harmonic balancer and, in no time, had the balancer off of the crankshaft. Below are pics of the kit, puller and bolts that I purchased(off to the right side). Note that you should use the bullnose attachment on the end of the large bolt to keep from damaging the crank bolt hole threads.
My harmonic balancer came off fairly easily without much fuss. In all of this, remember, you may have to purchase separate bolts from a hardware store as the kit may come up short.
Last edited by randal; 07-15-12 at 05:00 PM.
#4
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
#6
Lexus Test Driver
I have been using the starter blip / long breaker bar method for a long time on a few vehicles. It works every time. No damage. Just make sure the bolt / HB is spinning in the right direction!!
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Well, I'm stuck! Rx300 sits in my garage with balancer bolt still tight. Amazingly though, I just bought the same impact wrench from Harbor Freight that Randall used! I tried it a few times this afternoon late and the bolt wouldn't budge. I was thinking about switchingf to a 1/2 inch 12 foot air hose tomorrow and see if that works. I don't follow the starter bump idea.. Tell me it's NOT breaker bar on the bolt and lodged against the ground or frame while the starter is bumped?
#10
Just noticed that my Harmonic Balancer is wobbling on my 2004 ES330 with 168,000 miles. So now I need to look into replacing it. I have the tools the remove it but I gotta remove the timing belt? Also what's with the bolt being a huge problem and this starter trick? Also isn't the bolt that holds the Harmonic Balancer a one time use bolt and you gotta replace it?
Is this the starter trick?
Is this the starter trick?
Last edited by Dukenukemx; 02-20-15 at 12:44 PM.
#11
Gaaad that guy is annoying...
You need to call your closest Lexus dealer ASAP and check on the status of the recall on that pulley (have your VIN ready). Both my car and our Highlander had recalls on that pulley. They just pulled it into the shop and looked at it, both were fine. Only time my car has ever been in a Lexus dealership under my ownership. Something about the pulley coming apart and delaminating at the rubber insert. If that is the problem, they will replace it at no cost. Then they will wash your car, top off the fluids, and give it back to you.
No, the timing belt doesn't have to come off.
No, it's not a one-time use bolt.
The bolt can be a pain to get out because it's very tight. The starter trick will work, I've used it many times on other engines. But more importantly you need a tool to hold the balancer so you can properly torque it to tighten the bolt when you put it back on. I think the torque spec is 168 ft-lbs. I made my own tool. Don't just "make it really tight". It will come back out and the pulley will fall off, I've seen it happen. Then you will be stranded on the side of the road, with a trashed balancer, ruined belts, and possibly a damaged crankshaft.
You need to call your closest Lexus dealer ASAP and check on the status of the recall on that pulley (have your VIN ready). Both my car and our Highlander had recalls on that pulley. They just pulled it into the shop and looked at it, both were fine. Only time my car has ever been in a Lexus dealership under my ownership. Something about the pulley coming apart and delaminating at the rubber insert. If that is the problem, they will replace it at no cost. Then they will wash your car, top off the fluids, and give it back to you.
No, the timing belt doesn't have to come off.
No, it's not a one-time use bolt.
The bolt can be a pain to get out because it's very tight. The starter trick will work, I've used it many times on other engines. But more importantly you need a tool to hold the balancer so you can properly torque it to tighten the bolt when you put it back on. I think the torque spec is 168 ft-lbs. I made my own tool. Don't just "make it really tight". It will come back out and the pulley will fall off, I've seen it happen. Then you will be stranded on the side of the road, with a trashed balancer, ruined belts, and possibly a damaged crankshaft.
#13
Lexus Test Driver
I was told those electric and lower pressure compressor might not work as well....
#14
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Alternative way of loosening and tightening a 430 crank pulley bolt
I came up with a new way of both loosening and tightening a 430 crank pulley bolt, that also allows you to torque it up to the right level also. See here
. Also, the bolt you use doesn't need to be threaded into the pulley - just a snug fit part way in
Last edited by markrmt; 11-28-16 at 08:05 AM.