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Not sure if anyone can help me solve this issue. After a week of not driving my 2017 IS I go to start it & it won’t crank. I even changed battery & remote battery still nothing. Hoping to avoid towing to dealer. Any suggestions are Appreciated
are Appreciated
Not sure if anyone can help me solve this issue. After a week of not driving my 2017 IS I go to start it & it won’t crank. I even changed battery & remote battery still nothing. Hoping to avoid towing to dealer. Any suggestions are Appreciated
are Appreciated
Maybe a dumb suggestion, but could the key fob battery be dead? Try a second key?
not a dumb suggestion , that was the first thing I did I changed the battery in both key fobs. Then I put in a new car battery.
Try this. Hold your key fob to the start button (touching) and see if the vehicle will allow a start cycle. This is what you would do if your fob battery dies. There are a few other posts on the forum about similar issues, but varying different models.
Try this. Hold your key fob to the start button (touching) and see if the vehicle will allow a start cycle. This is what you would do if your fob battery dies. There are a few other posts on the forum about similar issues, but varying different models.
yeah I tried that also still nothing. I’ve been searching for similar issues and trying suggestions I’ll keep looking though. Would hate to have to tow it to the dealer. Thanks bro
Unohook the battery starting with the negative terminal first put a towel or something around it so it won't contact anything and the same with the positive. Then turn on hazard lights to help drain the capacitor in the ecu. They won't be one or maybe will flash for a second or two but leave the button engaged for about 10nseconds. Finally turn that switch back to the off position and let it sit still disconnected from the battery for 30 min. Reconnect battery see what happens.
Unohook the battery starting with the negative terminal first put a towel or something around it so it won't contact anything and the same with the positive. Then turn on hazard lights to help drain the capacitor in the ecu. They won't be one or maybe will flash for a second or two but leave the button engaged for about 10nseconds. Finally turn that switch back to the off position and let it sit still disconnected from the battery for 30 min. Reconnect battery see what happens.
@Nilo955 I'd give a shot to what @Armadous1 is suggesting as he's a Lexus tech.
Unohook the battery starting with the negative terminal first put a towel or something around it so it won't contact anything and the same with the positive. Then turn on hazard lights to help drain the capacitor in the ecu. They won't be one or maybe will flash for a second or two but leave the button engaged for about 10nseconds. Finally turn that switch back to the off position and let it sit still disconnected from the battery for 30 min. Reconnect battery see what happens.
Realized there’s no way for me to get the hazard lights to come on with disconnected battery
That’s the point. Remember what he said, that the lights probably wouldn’t even flash. It’s just to drain the very last bit of juice from the ECU. You won’t see them flash, just leave the switch pressed in and follow his instructions from there.
That’s the point. Remember what he said, that the lights probably wouldn’t even flash. It’s just to drain the very last bit of juice from the ECU. You won’t see them flash, just leave the switch pressed in and follow his instructions from there.
Nick
You’re right I read it wrong. Will try later once home
That’s the point. Remember what he said, that the lights probably wouldn’t even flash. It’s just to drain the very last bit of juice from the ECU. You won’t see them flash, just leave the switch pressed in and follow his instructions from there.
Nick
Didn’t end up working. I messaged him so maybe he has more suggestions before I tow it to Lexus