IL 2003 Gary Fisher Tassajar (Disc) Chicagoland
#1
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For sale is a 2003 Gary Fisher Tassajara Disc brake model. It was the last year it was hand built in Waterloo, Wisconsin and was about $850 (+tax) new plus I have added a nice Trek water bottle cage and WTB (World Trail Bikes) Pro Gel seat ($50). I have babied this bike and it appears excellent and rides perfect. I have only used Zymol wax on it as well and recently re-greased and re-packed all bearings (except sealed bottom bracket). I also have the OEM WTB seat to throw in as well. All new Fishers are made in China and although they have strict standards, this bike has the USA made pride. This is the Lexus of mountain bikes and worth every penny. The reason I am selling this is to offset the cost on my new 2009 Gary Fisher Tassajara Disc. The 2009 was $1100, but you get what you pay for.
I feel that $400 is a great price for this bike. I also have all papers and the frame has a Lifetime Warranty. This bike is pretty light as well for a MTB. Anyone who buys this is also welcome to join me at a WORS (Wisconsin Off Road Series) event this year.
Feel free to IM me with any questions.
![](http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u63/Brianrszymanski/2003GaryFisher.jpg)
![](http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u63/Brianrszymanski/HayesDiscBrake.jpg)
![](http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u63/Brianrszymanski/USAMade.jpg)
I feel that $400 is a great price for this bike. I also have all papers and the frame has a Lifetime Warranty. This bike is pretty light as well for a MTB. Anyone who buys this is also welcome to join me at a WORS (Wisconsin Off Road Series) event this year.
Feel free to IM me with any questions.
![](http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u63/Brianrszymanski/2003GaryFisher.jpg)
![](http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u63/Brianrszymanski/HayesDiscBrake.jpg)
![](http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u63/Brianrszymanski/USAMade.jpg)
![](http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u63/Brianrszymanski/Seat.jpg)
#2
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This bike is a 17.5" frame and specs are below.
Frame & Fork
Frame Construction TIG-welded
Frame Tubing Material 7005 aluminum
Fork Brand & Model Answer Manitou Six Elite, 3.15" travel
Fork Material Aluminum, single triple-clamp crown
Rear Shock Not applicable
Components
Component Group Mountain Mix
Brakeset Hayes HMX Mechanical Disc brakes, Hayes HML Mechanical Disc levers
Shift Levers Shimano Deore Rapidfire Plus
Front Derailleur Shimano Deore
Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore SGS
Crankset Bontrager Sport, 22/32/44 teeth
Pedals Aluminum platform
Bottom Bracket Shimano BB-LP28
BB Shell Width Unspecified
Rear Cogs 9-speed, 11 - 32 teeth
Chain Shimano CN-HG53, 1/2 x 3/32"
Seatpost Bontrager Sport
Saddle Serfas dual density
Handlebar Bontrager Crowbar Sport
Handlebar Extensions Not included
Handlebar Stem Bontrager Sport
Headset 1 1/8" threadless Dia-Compe STR
Wheels
Hubs Aluminum disc Q/R
Rims Bontrager Corvair
Tires 26 x 2.10" IRC Mythos XC
Spoke Brand DT stainless steel, 14ga. (2.0mm) straight gauge
Spoke Nipples Unspecified
Frame & Fork
Frame Construction TIG-welded
Frame Tubing Material 7005 aluminum
Fork Brand & Model Answer Manitou Six Elite, 3.15" travel
Fork Material Aluminum, single triple-clamp crown
Rear Shock Not applicable
Components
Component Group Mountain Mix
Brakeset Hayes HMX Mechanical Disc brakes, Hayes HML Mechanical Disc levers
Shift Levers Shimano Deore Rapidfire Plus
Front Derailleur Shimano Deore
Rear Derailleur Shimano Deore SGS
Crankset Bontrager Sport, 22/32/44 teeth
Pedals Aluminum platform
Bottom Bracket Shimano BB-LP28
BB Shell Width Unspecified
Rear Cogs 9-speed, 11 - 32 teeth
Chain Shimano CN-HG53, 1/2 x 3/32"
Seatpost Bontrager Sport
Saddle Serfas dual density
Handlebar Bontrager Crowbar Sport
Handlebar Extensions Not included
Handlebar Stem Bontrager Sport
Headset 1 1/8" threadless Dia-Compe STR
Wheels
Hubs Aluminum disc Q/R
Rims Bontrager Corvair
Tires 26 x 2.10" IRC Mythos XC
Spoke Brand DT stainless steel, 14ga. (2.0mm) straight gauge
Spoke Nipples Unspecified
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#8
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Probably, good point.
I would like people to test everything out first. I am 5'11" and 17.5 is perfect. Bar ends allow for more stretch. You never want a bigger bike for stability purposes on the trail.
#11
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Yes,
17.5 is for average sizes (medium). Anyone over 5'11" needs a 19"/20". Below is a grid for measurement.
Step 1
Measure your inseam. This is best done barefoot. Stand against the wall and put a book between you legs so it pressed right up against your pelvic bone. Make a mark with a pencil on the wall along the top of the book. Measure the distance from the floor to the mark in centimeters.
Step 2
Use your inseam measurement to get a rough idea of your road bike size. Multiply your inseam by .65. This will give you a good estimate of you road bike size for bikes measured center to center. Thus if your inseam is 86 cm, you will fit a 56cm road bike (86 x .65 = 55.9). Note that many road bikes are measured center to top. To determine how to fit these bikes, multiply your inseam by .67.
Step 3
Subtract an additional 10cm and convert this measurement to inches to get your mountain bike frame size, roughly. Thus, if you fit a 56cm road bike (c-c), you will fit a 46cm - or an 18" - mountain bike.
Step 4
Consider top tube length. In many ways, this is the most important aspect of sizing a bike. Two 18" mountain bikes may have different length top tubes. Or a 54cm and an 56cm road bike may have the same length top tube. Given the same top tube length, the bigger bike may be more comfortable in that it will allow you to get the bars up a bit higher.
Step 5
Know that women have longer legs and shorter top tubes than men. Unfortunately, most bikes are designed for men, and women often have a hard time finding a bike that will fit them well. Luckily, some manufacturers have begun to make women-specific models.
Step 6
Test ride some bikes once you have gotten a rough idea of what will fit you. This will help you determine what is most comfortable for you.
17.5 is for average sizes (medium). Anyone over 5'11" needs a 19"/20". Below is a grid for measurement.
Step 1
Measure your inseam. This is best done barefoot. Stand against the wall and put a book between you legs so it pressed right up against your pelvic bone. Make a mark with a pencil on the wall along the top of the book. Measure the distance from the floor to the mark in centimeters.
Step 2
Use your inseam measurement to get a rough idea of your road bike size. Multiply your inseam by .65. This will give you a good estimate of you road bike size for bikes measured center to center. Thus if your inseam is 86 cm, you will fit a 56cm road bike (86 x .65 = 55.9). Note that many road bikes are measured center to top. To determine how to fit these bikes, multiply your inseam by .67.
Step 3
Subtract an additional 10cm and convert this measurement to inches to get your mountain bike frame size, roughly. Thus, if you fit a 56cm road bike (c-c), you will fit a 46cm - or an 18" - mountain bike.
Step 4
Consider top tube length. In many ways, this is the most important aspect of sizing a bike. Two 18" mountain bikes may have different length top tubes. Or a 54cm and an 56cm road bike may have the same length top tube. Given the same top tube length, the bigger bike may be more comfortable in that it will allow you to get the bars up a bit higher.
Step 5
Know that women have longer legs and shorter top tubes than men. Unfortunately, most bikes are designed for men, and women often have a hard time finding a bike that will fit them well. Luckily, some manufacturers have begun to make women-specific models.
Step 6
Test ride some bikes once you have gotten a rough idea of what will fit you. This will help you determine what is most comfortable for you.
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