Epik

iTrader: (7)

I finally got back to the dyno on Saturday to set up my HKS cam gears and tune for nitrous.

Let me tell you guys something.. if you want a little more power across the whole power band get yourself a set of adjustable cam gears. If you are changing the timing belt on your car, or even if you are not, they are a worthwhile mod. Keep in mind you need to factor in at least an hour of dyno time to get them dialed in, around here that is $160.00 ($100.00 dyno time, $60.00 tuning labor).

What I'm talking about is, on Thursday I posted my #s from just SAFC2 tuning on the GE/GTE motor. The figures were 163.50rwhp and 150.71 lb/ft peak. The #s are down from the last motor due to the 1.5 drop in compression ratio... so what, I only lost 12hp and 11 lb/ft and got a near bulletproof bottom end. besides, it won't be running NA for much longer. Now on Saturday I dialed in the HKS cam gears and found all kinds of hp and torque. The peak #s didn't increase by much, only to 165.47hp and 155.12 lb/ft, but anyone that knows how to read a dyno sheet knows you look at the graph, not just the peak. Proper tuning of the cam gears gave me a minimum of 4hp/tq across the whole rev range, and as much as 8 lb/ft from 3500 to 4800 rpm. Not one single area on the graph lost power at all. The car is different to drive now.. feels smoother and just pulls harder thru the low end. Definitely recommended.

Now to the good stuff.. the happy gas. Due to the strength of the bottom end, I upped the shot considerably. I cant really say how much, lets just say a drill bit was involved I'm guessing it is roughly a 120hp shot now. Whoa.. what a difference. On the first nitrous run, the car was shooting for 270rwhp when the tranny slipped (213k miles.. ) and dropped it to 249.88hp and 266.52 lb/ft. The 266 tq was basically a spike as the tranny couldnt hold it.. torque leveled out at roughly the same as hp.. so 250/250 is what I'll claim. I have discovered that if i want to go further, additional fuel is needed. I'm almost maxed out on the SAFC2 thru the low end on my "spray" fuel map. I'll be getting an intank 255lph pump for the turbos anyway, so maybe I'll throw that in and head back to the dyno to see if the low end air/fuel spike can be calmed down. As it is, on tip in of the throttle the A/F shoots up for a second and then settles down. Still it is enough to trip a limp mode on the next run.. I'm guessing it is the knock sensor yanking timing. I needed to reset the ecu between runs to avoid this.

Driving impression.. If I ran a 14.0@99 on the old tired motor, this one is going to be much better.
okay.. here's the scenario.. manually shifting. Sitting power braking the car to bring the rpms up to stall speed, 1st gear. Floor the gas and the tires break loose instantly. The rear end steps out to the right for about 15ft before she grabs traction and takes off. Upshift manually at about 5200rpm and as soon as the gear grabs, she steps out to the right again.. spinning for another 10ft or so then rocketing forward again. Now I'm at almost 70mph.. on the side street of my shop which is almost a clear 1/8 mile long. End of the street.. clamp on the Supra binders.

I turn the car around, headed back down and I decide to see what the car will do shifting for itself. So, in drive.. rolling about 2-3 mph I floor it. Same thing.. sideways to the right.. about 20ft this time.. on the upshift it hits the rev limiter once then grabs and spins again and steps out.. again.. and takes off. I see a true 70 mph again and then I'm on the brakes. I cant wait to go to the track, but it looks like Hurricane Ivan has other plans.

Stay tuned!

indypwr

you're off to a good start, bro....congrats!
i trully think that you'll have more fun once you get the turbo installed. you can 4get about the nitrous fr now. i used to drive a direct port 100 shot nissan and that wz hell of fun!! the adrenaline rush was just phenominal!...hehe
what are yr hp goals on the gs by the way? i believe the stock injectors will be ok with the turbo set up
including the walbro pump, safc2. make sure you installsome air/fuel meter and wideband 02 to get accurate readings on the mixture. if you go beyond 9psi with the turbo set up, you will need to upgrade
yr injectors. heck, this was my plan on my old gs and now that i drive an sc which shares the same engine except it's obd1, im still heading to that direction. i've got a few parts here now but not totally complete.

i want to ask you something, though. my mechanic is charging me 1600.00 for complete engine rebuild which includes labor. is that a good price? the only thing i might need to consider is for him to change the head gasket to the gte one....or even the hks head gasket. well, either one will work anywyas.

well, keep us posted man............!!!

Epik

iTrader: (7)

Thanks man, it's been a long time coming, but the project is finally on the move. I'm going to do a drop in 255lph pump and an Aeromotive external fuel pressure regulator to replace the stock one. I'm also out of fuel now on the stock injectors and a 120 shot, so I'll be dropping in some 450s (at least) to replace them as well. As far as 9 psi goes.. I have the GTE complete shortblock and ARP studs clamping the head to the block so I have no such limitations. I'll have more than 9 psi on my wastegate spring alone. My initial goals are 450rwhp, but I'm designing the setup to be well into boost before 3000 rpm, as it is a drift vehicle. I'm not concerned with 600hp that you have to hurry up and wait for, I like my tires smoking early I'm desiging the manifold also for a completely custom set of twins. I have a GReddy air/fuel guage installed right now and a full set of GReddy gauges going in to monitor the other functions.. oil pressure, water temp, exhaust gas temp and boost.

As far as the rebuild, $1600.00 is a fair price.. what parts are included in that? I'm using the GE headgasket, it is still metal, just thinner than the GTE.. only 3 layers vs the GTE which I believe has 5 or 6. It is actually helping me to raise the compression slightly, since I'm losing 1.5 at the moment on the GTE shortblock compared to the GE. Do yourself a favor, while the engine is in pieces... buy ARP studs, dont reuse stock ones anyway. And buy a set of adjustable cam gears. Should be no extra labor over stock parts to assemble the engine with tunable parts.

Thanks again Indy.. good luck with your Soarer.

gompka

iTrader: (6)

hmm interesting...... guess that the tranny can't really hold that 320 wrhp thats its supposed to be able to handle when its got high mileage.

Also i checked my timing and i was running like 8* btdc so i moved it to about 12-13* btdc like you said. I can definetly feel a difference, especially on the highway. And i dunno if its just me but now my intake sounds different, better.

You wouldn't happen to know what the tolerances are supposed to be on the stock gs300 injectors do you? I want to check mine to see if they are working properly i'm hoping they might somehow be contributing to my low gas mileage.

Epik

iTrader: (7)

Thanks David, glad to hear that the timing worked out for you. I saw a good increase when I tuned my car all motor by bumping it to 12*. Since upping the nitrous I actually retarded it back to factory spec at 10* for safety when I'm spraying. I'm not surprised you hear a difference in the induction sound.. it is combustion happening faster and earlier..

Not sure on the injector tolerances.. not sure what you mean actually. Have you tried a GOOD fuel injector cleaner? Try using Redline S1. They sell it at Advance Autoparts around here in SC.. may be the same for you.

sillbeer

Hey Jeff, Sounds like it's coming along nicely. Will stock 550cc gte injectors bolt into the ge rail? Or can you take the ge rail out and put the gte rail in?

Gompka, A buddy of mine sent his FD injectors out to http://www.rceng.com/ and had good results. They clean your injectors and flow test them and send them back with a flow chart and actual size in cc of each injector. It was around $90 for 4 injectors.

-Destin

sillbeer

You said you have the stock Aristo tranny right Jeff? I'm not sure what the HP limits are on it but I can find out this weekend when I go to my buddys shop. Whasn't there a plug or something that was different? If you can take a pic of it I can try to get a wirring diagram and figure out where it goes. Shouldn't be to much trouble.

-Destin

Epik

iTrader: (7)

Well, there's a problem there. the GTE uses side feed injectors (and they are a different design than SR20s and Nissan injectors, Destin) and the GE uses top feeds. I also tried to bolt on the GTE rail and injectors to the GE manifold.. no go.. the spacing is just a little off. The JDM GTE uses 450s too and they are different impedance than US.

I do have the Aristo tranny. The only differences I can tell are, the bellhousing is slightly longer to make room for the turbo torque convertor, and it is stamped J3, where as mine is stamped J2. The only other difference is on the rear drivers side of the tranny.. the black plug on my tranny has 6 pins and on the Aristo tranny it has 8 pins. I'm willing to bet that this is only because my car is a 93 and has only a 4 spd auto. Didnt the 96-97 US GS300 have 5 spd auto? The Aristo probably has that same 5 speed auto.

I didnt swap the bellhousings to use the turbo converter when I was doing the engine install b/c I wasnt sure about drive shaft length issues. But now that I've done it, there is plenty of slack and I will at least swap to the J3 bellhousing and turbo converter sometime in the near future. Would be great to just install the lower mileage Aristo tranny instad of tearing it apart.

gompka

iTrader: (6)

So the only thing holding you back from from installing the complete aristo tranny is the extra pins on the plug?

Epik

iTrader: (7)

I'm not exactly sure. can anyone confirm what I'm thinking? That the 8 pin plug on the Aristo tranny is only because of the 5 spd auto? I may be wrong..

gompka

iTrader: (6)

Hmm maybe you could ask a dealership or talk with someone at carson toyota maybe they could check it out in the manual for you.

sillbeer

Hey Jeff, I'm going to be heading down to my buddys shop tomorrow. Can you tell me what year Aristo your motor came from? I'll try and dig up some info.

-Destin

Epik

iTrader: (7)

Can someone tell me if there is a head stamping for the production date or something? I'll look on the ECU too, but I really dont know. I'll definitely go over the head and see if I can find anything.

sillbeer

My buddy said the Aristo tranny is good for 450hp. He said it should be pretty easy to figure out the wirring. He didn't shed any light on what the pins could be.

-Destin

Epik

iTrader: (7)

Thats good info Destin. I'm going to pick up a service manual on CD and see if I can trace out the wiring.
That means the Aristo tranny..maybe with a valve body kit will be perfect for my short term power goals. At least till I swap to a 6 speed