jmax.garage

iTrader: (2)

venus auto for the jdm engine. you can talk the price down because, believe it or not, the demand is not high... for now. and as i said before, why deal with all the wiring converting into a turbo? i really think the swap is easier and, as epik, boosting the stock JDm turbos + an LSD+ coilovers = sideways fun. This car WON'T be a drift purpose vehicle, just an occasional track car... something like, 'hey, there is a parking lot event coming up and my hachi is getting a new suspension; I'll take the ari300 down' kind of car, that's why my goal is 270~90 whp, nothing to out of this world. For a track car, i'm building a hachi, but that belongs to a different forum =,]

Abear

iTrader: (1)

Wiring for NA-T will be ALOT easier than trying to wire a JDM 2JZGTE from an Aristo. I get what your trying to do, and Im telling you if all your looking for is 290-350 horsepower, just go NA-T, you wont even need the headgasket. Epik isnt boosting the stock JDM turbos, haha, that dude got rid of them things, they suck. The USDM turbos are much better, something about ceramic turbos or something, I dont remember. Anyway, Epik has some aftermarket twins on his engine, search and you will see his turbos, they are not stock. Lets say you go with a 57-61trim turbo right? Boost 8psi on stop compression, stock fuel injectors and a Walbro pump, you will be making in the 300rwhp range man. Its very easy. Just wait for Epik to respond again, he will tell you hes not on the stock twins, at least last time I saw a picture of his engine, they were def. not the stock twins in there
Research is all I have to say. I know I have said it over and over, but you must not be listening, you can easily attain 300rwhp on the stock 2JZGE. All you need to do is upgrade the fuel pump, bolt on the turbo, intercooler, piping, maybe an exhaust, Apex-i SAFC2 and you will be good. All this depends on the year you have, but if your OBD1 I suggest getting an SC/LS400 MAF and using the SAFC2 piggyback computer to tune the A/F's. Keep searching my friend.

indypwr

buy a new tt wiring harness and do the jdm tt swap and you're done. dont bother with jdm harness cuz you will need to extend them.
need to modify tachometer with msd adapter in order for it to work.
might need a resistor for the temp gauge to work as well.

jmax.garage

iTrader: (2)

I know Epik isn't running the stock JDM turbos but he did what I said; if you boost the JDM ones you can get the figures i want OR get the USDM twins and get 300WHP+ easily. INDYPWR knows what i'm talking about. I researched it already and believe me, I know what I can do with the 2jzge; the only thing i am hestiant about turboing the n/a is the UPGRADE PATH on the n/a motor compared to the turbo engine; there are way more aftermarket parts for the turbo engine. The manifold is already there. The intake is already there. The piping. The compression. This engine already is turbo and is reinforced for forced induction from factory. You can't loose. so later on, maybe i'll make the ari300 a fully track vehicle. I am not starting an argument, just giving my point of view and also i'm not dissing on ppl that turbo their n/a. Major props. but for me, because I will eventually upgrade the engine sooner or later, the JDM swap seems like a better option in the long run.

Abear

iTrader: (1)

This is true, but I thought you JUST wanted like 300rwhp, so swapping would be just a waste of money, unless you could really get the engine for the about 1500 dollars.

Epik

iTrader: (7)

no, i'm not on stock JDM twins. Yes you can make 350+rwhp with JDM twins, I have frineds that are making 380. If you want to make more, and reliably, swap to a USDM set of twins and a BCC and boost happily all the way to 400+.

The Aristo swap is not a big deal. Yes, it is a lot of wiring.. you are adding almost 250ft to the harness..think of that for a sec. Here's the kicker though, it is all repetitive wiring.. lengthening the main leg of the harness to go from one side of the firewall to the other side, JDM to USDM. Everything else just plugs in.. no cutting and changing plugs or pins.. thats it.

The factory tach does not work. I never experimented with the MSD adapters to see if it would work, I just cut my factory tach out and put a SAGA 60mm tach in there instead. The temp guage works perfectly.

There.. no more misinformation. Again, I'm not trying to start a ge vs. gte battle, but for the reliability and boost ability.. it has been proven that the gte cant be beat. yes, the GE can hold power. but can it do it on the stock ecu, no standalone, or piggybacks? No. Any 400+ rwhp GE is on an AEM almost guaranteed. There are many BPU+++ Supras on the stock ECU making well over 400 rwhp.. You guys can go your own way, but I chose mine and I'm very happy. Trouble is, I chose it 3.5 yrs ago before it was the "next big thing" and just recently got around to finishing it up. Damn shop eating up all my time..

Abear

iTrader: (1)

Like I said, yall are right. The GTE is a much better engine to work on to turbo. Maybe I was mistaken, but I thought there were more wiring problems with the JDM GTE, but like you said, I guess its just lengthing the wires... Anyway, my whole point was that I thought he only wanted like 300whp, which if that was the case, and the GTE couldnt be found for cheaper than 2500, which is what its going for on Ebay and many other sites, then I really didnt see a point in getting the GTE, seeing as 300 is very attainable with the GE stock. I myself am only looking for around 300-350whp and, even though most people are always like, you wont be able to stop, trust me, I will. This isnt my last car, and I have big plans for future cars, but Im looking to make this car street and show. Once I finish it, I will most likely buy a daily beater and store my car somewhere.

Kid, good luck with your decision and with you boosting