shoaf213

OK, well, to make a long story, well....LONG, here goes...

As some of you know my car has been in the shop for about 2 months now, well, it's been in 2 shops. It was with my boy and mechanic for about a month and a half....

He:
Installed UR cam gears
Replaced cam seals
Installed UR pulleys
Installed Injen Intake
Replaced water pump
Replaced radiator
Replaced hoses
Installed Supra TT alternator

whatever else I forgot

Well, turns out that after all that the head gasket was blown...it was a little hard to diagnose because it took a LONG time to overheat...about an hour

SO, he recommended a shop that is comprised of former Titan motorsport employees...I'm sure several of you are aware of Titan and the work they have done with Supras...

They:
Replaced/Reworked head and replaced head gasket
Sent the head to get milled
Installed ARP head studs
Replaced valve cover gasket
Replaced valve seals
PVC Valve
Installed Nology plug wires
Installed NGK 3330's (1 step colder)
Flush/Fill radiator
Installed Xerd header
Installed Gravity mufflers
Installed resonator
Fabbed and installed custom SS 2.5' mandrel exhaust

whatever else I forgot

SO...I go today to pick her up and it's running fine at idle, with the exception of an intermittant decrease in RPM's, but she rev's herself back up and it's pretty infrequent, so, between my notion that it's something simple that the ECU might have to learn and the fact I'm so excited to have her back I start the trek home.....

This is where it goes terribly wrong....

I live about 12 miles from the shop and before I even got 2 miles away she stalled on me twice. I decided to keep going. It's acting much like a plug is fouled out except it's COMPLETELY intermittant....Basically every SO OFTEN (30 secs-2 mins) the RPM's dive SO MUCH(500-1200), SO MANY TIMES (once-numerous) IMMEDIATELY, and then it rev's back up to normal idle. This happens at idle, accelerating, decelerating, cruising. The intensity is also intermittant. it can be like a hiccup, or a jerk.

Fast forward to the drive home and back and when I get back to the shop it's REAL BAD, idle is extremelely high and erratic, it's running pig rich by the carbon on the new mufflers and when I shut her off, she won't start up again!

The mechanic seemed pretty confused and his only POSSIBLE reasons were, "It's something electrical" or "It might be the plugs". So, here I am AGAIN without the car.

On top of all that, somewhere along the line the left rear window regulator went out and the window WILL NOT stay up and the left rear window moulding is about to fall off, the right front HID fires when turned on, but WILL NOT stay lit! Oh yeah, and the first time I typed this I was 90% done and Internet Explorer froze on me!

So, there you go, that was my day.....

Abear

iTrader: (1)

Dude, this is so bad. I hope they get your car up and running soon!

Xeeeeeem

Ain't that a Biatch. The shop is not his, make em fix EVERYTHING out of their pocket so no guilt is on your buddy. Altough good luck proving it all

shoaf213

I'm sure they'll fix it, the scary thing was the "deer in the headlights" look the guy was giving the engine when I got back....Like he had "No idea" what was wrong!

Lexus Boy

sorry to hear about this bro im sure they'll get it fixed

Kaiser

iTrader: (1)

Kinda like a vacuum hose gradually was melted through and it got worse and worse?

I don't know why they put 3330's in. Are you planning on boosting it soon?

shoaf213

I bought 20 3330's for tuning, not boost, but 130 shot of N2O....

shoaf213

Oh yeah, does anyone know where the thermostat is? Ever since I originally got the car back the outside temp reads -22, I guessed it was on the original body kit....

Abear

iTrader: (1)

try unpluggin the battery for about 20 minutes.

shoaf213

The battery has been disconnected most of the time the car has been down...They re-set the ECU as well

Abear

iTrader: (1)

Mines done the same thing before..shown -22, after I disconnected the battery for a while it went away. Just because its been disconnected since theyve been doing all this, doesnt mean its not the problem, Im sure they will disconnect it to work on it again. Plus just resetting the ECU wont fix that, it has its own fuse, so its still getting power even if the ECU fuse is out.

Epik

iTrader: (7)

in my experience the thermostat for the climate control was mounted up front on the hood latch support. I think.

Interesting problem on the idle issue. Sounds like there is a leak in the throttle body or intake manifold gaskets. They have to be removed to change the plugs and most likely it was all removed to do the head work. That would cause the overly-rich condition as well. Sounds like the richness fouled the plugs.

Where did they set the ignition timing? Was it retarded for the future nitrous? That and a colder plug could cause fouling on a stock motor. Could also have a torn injector O-ring from when they pulled it all apart and stuck it back together.. that also would cause what you are having. Do you smell fuel under the hood anywhere?

not understanding how it took 1 hour to over heat and it was diagnosed as a BHG. Sounds like it was not bled properly.. it can take a LONG time to bleed the coolant on the 2jz sometimes. Have to make sure the heater switch temp is turned to 85* to have the heater core fully open and push out any air pockets. Helps to have the nose of the car in the air too.

Good luck.. let us know how it turns out.

Epik

iTrader: (7)

Also.. put the stock plug wires back on. Nology suck.

shoaf213

Well, the head gasket....That was a story in itself...I was driving between Orlando and Ft Myers...I got to Orlando fine, I went back to Ft Myers and about 2 miles from my father's house the car started to overheat and blow steam, so I got to his house and the upper radiator hose was broken and coolant was EVERYWHERE....SO, I figured it was just dry-rotted since the car sat for about a year. I replaced the upper hose it seemed to run fine. But in the process I sprayed the engine down to get the rust off and fouled the plugs out. Had to take it to a local shop for plugs and wires....anyway, the next day I started to head back to Orlando again and I got about 50 miles outside of Ft Myers when I started overheating again. I pulled over and the coolant had sprayed out of the overflow bottle...So, it has to be the thermostat, right? A roadside guy stops, tells me he'll take me to the store and replace the thermostat on the side of the road for $80. Seemed like a good deal to me, so I took it. I start back down the road and it starts to overheat AGAIN, this time after 10-15 miles. So, I call him back and have him tow me the other 120 miles or so. The guy tells me that he smelled stop leak in the radiator, which would have been in there for over 2 years....SO, I had my mechanic replace the radiator, water pump, thermostat and hoses. The car was puffin' white smoke, but it wasn't overheating, and compression was fine...so, at first we thought it was just condensation left in the exhaust, but it would finally overheat after about an hour. So, there wasn't much left to blame it on but the BHG....

Epik

iTrader: (7)

okay, sounds pretty thorough. FWIW, the BHG may have been the cause of blowing a hole in the rad hose too.. cylinder pressure escaping into the coolant passages has no where to go. I went thru the same thing with mine for a while (2jzge).

try swapping in the stock plug wires and a fresh set of plugs (stock heat range) have the ign timing checked again, 10* BTDC is stock. I ran 12* on mine, along with the tuning of the cam gears. are yours dialed yet?

check the fuel pump as well.. could be the fuel pump ecu/resistor in the trunk. any check engine lights? you could try the FP/+B jumper in the under hood diagnostic box to run the fuel pump straight and see if that clears it up.