Johnny D

u know the story..aristo clip, blah blah blah

Anyways..the car has hardpipes and an FMIC along with a full exhust and intake. i havent touched the boost..but im sure from the mods and the recent tempurature drop, im getting prolly 2 more lbs of boost.

which unfortunatley is causing me to hit fuel cut and its just been bugging the living hell outta me.

what do we have to do to raise or eliminate this boost cut? does the BCC work as it does int he USDM MAF type 2jzgte's?

Johnny D

*sigh*

JZZ30TT

The amount of ignorance in this post is amazing.

Anyways, I have the same issues with my car. You just need to buy a FCD and you'll be good.

indypwr

get the greddy FCD and you'll be ok. that's what i use on my jspec swap on my sc300. i get 1.2 bar daily with pump gas.

Johnny D

lol alright..i know im going against you guys a little bit here...cause I just had a greddy Boost Cut Controller delivered to me just a few hours ago. Ill probably install it tomorrow.

i guess my main concern is...the ECU and harness of the Aristo is the same as the Supra, yes? cause i got Supra installation directions to tap it into the harness.

Kaiser

iTrader: (1)

If your supra is running a maf then they are not the same. However I believe the supra still has a wire for a map just for the boost cut.

Epik

iTrader: (7)

Kaiser.. you know how it goes, you just put one on.

Yes, the GReddy BCC is the unit to have, it is actually the MR2 one, same as the Supra guys use. You need a voltmeter to set the switch point on it. Kaiser, care to share the specs? I can't remember which is which with obd1/obd2 floating inside my head.

i REALLY have to pick one of these up very soon. 14psi is getting slow to me

Johnny D

I dont think that one running maf and one running map would make a difference since the BCC just taps into the TPS (Turbo pressure sensor)

Kaiser

iTrader: (1)

Map = TPS on the JDM. If it's a 93-95 motor set it to 4.28ish. 95-98 go with 4.08ish. Take the back off the BCC or pull back the sticker to reveal the dial to adjust the output. You will need a very tiny phillips or flat. Put the black wire to ground, the red and white go to the positive terminal. The green goes to the multimeter. Dial in the right voltage and then wire to the ECU. If you have OBDI and an APEXi it's really easy as you have already identified the three wires needed. Just tap the BCC after the APEXi so that you can still read the proper psi even though it will be clamped going to the ECU.

indypwr

i still hit fuel cut when i exceed 1.2 bar and that's far as i can boost with stock tubbies. i wouldn't recommend boosting more than that on a daily basis.

also, if you took the cats out to get more free flow on yr exhaust, then you will hit boost creep as well. the jspec motors dont run exactly as the usdm .
on the jspec, you need to control the exhaust flow in order to control the boost level and to avoid boost creep. this happned to me when i first drove my sc300 after the swap. i had 3inch downpipe and 2.5 all the way back with free flow cat, i get boost creep all the time. what i did was i installed a 2 1/4 flange between the downpipe and connecting pipe to give it a little back pressure so that you can control the boost either with EBC or manual controller.

Kaiser

iTrader: (1)

I have a Jspec with a single. I don't have creep, I have a spike. I'll hit 1.2 bar and then back down to 1 bar. I have a 3" turbo back single out with a cat, resonator and a muffler. I'm adding another resonator to kill the drone I get at highway cruising.

gs300pnp

Absolutely NOT!

ARISTO wiring harness for the JZS147 is in no way similar to the MKIV. And the MKIV have differnet iterations for specific years.

The end plugs and pinouts are different. There's two options you can take and both will reqire time and capital expenses.

if you have an ARISTO engine extending the harnes 3 additional feet will work fine. That is if your going to use the matching JDM Aristo ECU. Aristo and MKIV sensors and placement is not a one for one match there are different end plugs and the lengths will differ as well. This requires further cutting and extending and replacing plug ends.

For the USDM MKIV and I'm speaking of harness for 93-94 no extension but you must match the pinouts. Additionally, as mentioned above, wires will have different end plugs some may be short or long so proper mod will be required. Also, MKIV there's a section of the harness that is not used at all. so you'll need to determine which of those wires you will need so that it will interface with your entire electrical system. the key word here is "entire" not just the the engine wiring its self. there are analog signals that pass to other electronic controllers like ABS, TRAC, Auto Heat/AC etc...

My recommendation, stick with the ARISTO harness and work withit or get someone in Japan to order a new one specfic for the year and then extend it.
You'll find after exposure to heat and elements the connectors become brittle and break easily. Toyota or commercial electronic stores can order you the rigth connector ends. This will take some research and yes in some cases trial and error.


Good luck!

Johnny D

Thanks for all that...I have the Aristo motor, harness and ECU all plugged in..the car is running.
I just need to know what wires to go what so I can install this BCC..i got the SW20 one...im sure itll work on this aristo ECU....but isntallation directions..yeah..nowhere to be found

Johnny D

apexi?? i have the greddy SW20 one. It has 4 wires. Red, black, white, green.

Epik

iTrader: (7)

kaiser is talking about the SAFC2 (apex'i). The MAP wires are cut and run thru the SAFC2, so you already have the wire there that you need to intersect.

if you still havent figured it out in a few days, i'll post the install info.. screw it i'm buying one. tired of 1 bar.