Jewel707

iTrader: (1)

Ok well i have been on the forums since 5 looking at some do it your self things. mostly headlight stuff and car stereo stuff. I have a couple questions hoping that maybe some could ask that i could not find within those 6 hours on being on and off the forum.

1. When i oven the headlights in th eoven pre-heated at 200 degrees do i just leave it in there for two minutes then pull out?
2. what do i seal the headlights back up with?
3. Has anyone done the city running lights mod? if so did you tapp it through your parking lights or something that turns on through ignition?
4. last but not least which is the best priced HID kit for our cars?
5. just to get it answered what are some preferred ways to set up a bangin stereo system?

Abear

iTrader: (1)

You can use the hi-lo convertor, but splice it into the OEM sub. That way your just getting the low signal from the sub and not the mids from the rears.
Thats the only way to do it if you want to keep your stock head. If not, you can change the headunit and then youll be set to do whatever you want.

Jewel707

iTrader: (1)

I really appreciate everyones response very much. Thank you all. This stuff is very helpful expecially being that its my project car and i wanna do the work. But i got some people to help. When i proceed all this ill post pics show yall how everything is going. First will be my soudn system since its part of my senior project! haha it feels great to get a grade for something you actually like to do. Thanks again everyone.

Abear

iTrader: (1)

HAHA, thats awesome. Senior Project, I wish my classes were as cool, but no.
Anyway if you want to impress your teacher and classmates so they will want to pay you do their stereos, do it the right way the first time. Buy yourself a new headunit, a nice powerful amp(mono 1600+ watts from a good company) and either 1 or 2 10s. I have one 10 at 1400 watts max and 700 RMS. My amp is 2000 watts max at 1 ohm. Its running at 2 ohms and the max power at 2 ohms is 1400 watts and 800 RMS I think. The gain isnt all the way up though, and it hits pretty good for 1 10. All my friends are always like "thats just 1 10? it hits harder than my 12." I just laugh.
Heres my write-up. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...stereo+install
If you plan on running the type of system I am, make sure you put a new battery and a capacitor. I have a new battery and a 180 amp alt. No capacitor but when Im at cruising speeds the voltage never drops below 13.7
So like I said, do yourself a favor and save money by doing it right the first time, I wish I would have.

Abear

iTrader: (1)

Well, running it off the rear would be good if your planning on using it for more than the sub, but from what I understood, he just wanted a sub, so why not use the sub? Then you wont have to worry about tuning anything, just set the bass level where you want it and crank it up.

Jewel707

iTrader: (1)

I'm thinking of getting two twelves of the new JL Audio W3's being that i heard they were better then my first choice the Alpine Type R's. Im still deciding on the proper amp. I just want enough power and maybe a little over the rated so that i wont get too much over heating. My battery for sure will be changed and get a cap to prevent all that dimming. My question is should i take out the stock sub? and should i replace the inside speakers or are they good? becuase through your write up it seems they are wireable (if thats even a word lol). Or would it be worth it to swap them out?

pitchblaq

Take a look at SPL amps, they are the best thing out, at least i think for the money and is slowly starting to climb in pricing, because they are getting such good feedback on them.
here is the page.

http://www.electronixwarehouse.com/car/amps/spl.htm

Abear

iTrader: (1)

The thing with 2 12s is your just gonna be taking up your whole trunk and adding even more weight to a car that already weighs ALOT. I would get just 1 W3 if thats what you want. Then get a nice powerful mono block amp.
The thing you have to remember, which should be easy for you since your still in high school, is basic physics. Volts x Amps = Watts. The battery runs at like 13.9 +/- .2, so if you want 1000 watts RMS your gonna need an amp that has the right amperage. The way you can tell how much it has is by the fuses on the amps. Ill do mine again just for an example. My amp has 4 fuses, each rated at 30amps a fuse. So 30 x 4 = 120. Now we know the voltage..13.9. So just multiply by 120...1668. Now divide that by 2 to get the RMS wattage..834. So anyway, just see if you can find out how many fuses the amp you want has.
You are gonna need to take out the stock sub, otherwise you will barely get any sound in the cab. You can replace the door speakers if you want. I blew my tweeters, so I replaced the tweeters and the fronts, the rears are stock. Im not sure what you mean by wireable, but if you want to put new speakers and run new wires, just follow the wires that are already for the speakers.

Jewel707

iTrader: (1)

By wireable i ment compatible with the headunit because by the looks of it installing the headunit to work with the stock speakers is pretty difficult theres 3 harnesses. but thanks to your write up it should be pretty easy. I get what oyu mean about the watts haha looking back at physics. So really the rating that they give you can be totally different from what oyu actually get is what you mean? and heres a picture that i took i just got done cleaning my car



Silver 1994 First Gen With Second Gen 16" alloys bought them for 200 off craigslist with tires. All stock besides the wheels. It shouldnt be stock by this coming summer

Abear

iTrader: (1)

Lookin good man.
Thats exactly what I meant. Gotta watch out. The second amp I bought was rated at 2000 watts and it only had 2 30amp fuses lol. I got ripped off on that one.

Theres also an easier way to wire the new speakers if your gonna put in a headunit. I just didnt realize it till after I was done. Theres another block that all the speaker wires run to at the passenger door floor. If you take all the carpet and stuff up, you will see it on the right. The speaker wires are the same color, so just follow my write-up and you wont have to run new wires to the trunk.

Jewel707

iTrader: (1)

Wow that sucks hah. Well now tha i figure its all math/physics. Can you feel the single sub that you have? If anything i might make a custom box through the rear deck with a single 10 or 12" W3 or Type R.

Abear

iTrader: (1)

HAHAHA! Can I feel it? I feel it more than I felt the 2 12s I had with that crappy 2000 watt amp I had first.