Lexus Boy

how about the rear write up

W4SIM

Ok, just got half the job done, thats removing it all.

The top balljoint is INDEED a one piece item and therefore you have to replace the whole arm. Thats got 3 attachment points, the balljoint to the steering knuckle and 2 plain bolts on the sides. The bolts on the sides require the strut assembly to be removed first (unless you have a small set of spanners with an even smaller set of hands ) But once thats out its a very easy job actually.

The bottom balljoint on the other hand, WELL, where the hell do i start. Lets just say its a bit more trickier.

Firstly, like yourself i too believed there were 3 points of attachment, there are actually 4. Two plain bolts, one castle nut on the under side for the balljoint, and another castle nut on the top that connects a joint to the tie rod.

If your doing this job then please bear in mind that the 2 plain bolts and the castle nut on the underneath are VERY VERY tight. As a matter of fact it broke a ratchet whilst trying to take them off.

But like i said im only half way through the job as the ones i bought seem to be slightly knackered, as when i try to get the nut on the ball joint the ball joint starts spinning aswell. Im pretty sure thats not supposed to be like that as the ones iv taken out dont spin. Got to take them back tomorrow and try again.

phollero

W4SIM,
Good luck with the bottom ball joint!

Here's what the service manual says about the procedure (note SST means special service tool - such as pitman arm puller is an SST):

REMOVAL
1. REMOVE FRONT WHEEL
Torque: 103 N·m (1,050 kgf·cm, 76 ft·lbf)

2. REMOVE BRAKE CALIPER
(a) Remove the 2 bolts and caliper.
Torque: 118 N·m (1,200 kgf·cm, 87 ft·lbf)
(b) Support the brake caliper securely.

3. DISCONNECT TIE ROD END FROM LOWER BALL
JOINT (see first picture below)
(a) Remove the clip and nut.
Torque: 87 N·m (890 kgf·cm, 64 ft·lbf)
(b) Using SST, disconnect the tie rod end from the lower ball
joint.
SST 09610–20012

4. DISCONNECT LOWER BALL JOINT FROM LOWER
SUSPENSION ARM (see second picture below)
(a) Remove the cotter pin and nut.
Torque: 127 N·m (1,300 kgf·cm, 95 ft·lbf)
(b) Using SST, remove the lower ball joint.
SST 09628–62011

5. REMOVE LOWER BALL JOINT FROM STEERING
KNUCKLE
Remove the 2 bolts and lower ball joint.
Torque: 113 N·m (1,150 kgf·cm, 83 ft·lbf)

phollero

Lexus Boy, yes you and me both! I'll post the rear write up separately as soon as I get some "free" time. I actually haven't installed the rears shocks/springs yet so my GS is lower in the front but stock in the back.

phollero

Check it out Lexus Boy...
It took me a while, but I finally did the rear suspension.

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=276535

Next...Putting on some 19" RH Evo GT-5's!

Lexus Boy

thanks bro i plan on using this for when i install my coilovers as soon as i pick out some wheels

bguild

I didn't get very far today when I started this job.

Trying to get that 14 yr old castle nut that holds the upper ball joint shaft, and we obliterated the nut (#1) followed by destroying the shaft (#2) when we tried to use PB Blaster, torches, hammers, nutcrackers, dremel cutting wheels... you name it to remove the nut which might as well have been fused to the shaft from the factory.

When everything was said and done, I used a hack saw to cut the shaft clear off. That was a costly decision I bet.... Now I need at least one new arm and upper ball joint combo.

Does anyone have the Toyota part # for the drivers and passengers side upper ball joints? And, can you get them from anywhere else aside from Toyota... (already checked Autozone and NO DICE)

Thanks,

Brian

phollero

I don't think you can replace just the upper ball joint only. It is part of the control arm and has to be a complete replacement.

bguild

Hi, thanks for the reply. I am aware that the arm and ball joint are one unit from Lexus because I read it in a previous post. Also, you will see in my post above that I make reference to it as "combo". It would be really helpful if someone could volunteer a part number...

W4SIM

I dont wana kick you while your down, but i almost did the same thing on my car, except i bent the shaft whilst trying to disconnect the joint from the steering arm.

But for future refrence, and for any one else trying to do this job, you DONT have to disconnect that balljoint, there is a way around it. I found this when i started thinking back to the time when i replaced my upper and lower ball joints.

1. Remove caliper.
2. Remove Disc.
3. Place a jack under the castle nut for the lower ball joint.
4. Find 2 x 17mm bolts on either side of this castle nut.
5. Undo these 2 nuts, and remove.
6. Hold the dust shield with both hands and simply lift upwards.

The whole hub assembly, steering arm and upper ball joint will just move upwards and out of the way. This is quite heavy and you may need another person to support all of this, but it my life 10 times easier by just removeing these 2 17mm bolts and lifting everything out of the way. This also saved me the hassle of having to seperate the top ball joint.

NOTE:- To all those that want to try it like this, just bear these 2 things in mind.

1. These are quite possibly the tightest 2 bolts on the whole car, you will need some muscle power along with the extension/breaker bar.

2. This may sound silly, but iv seen a few people do this, including myself. Remeber these bolts are upside down and you must remember which way loosening actually is, its almost in your head to turn it one way, but garanteed it will be the wrong way. With the bolts being upside down, anti-clockwise is the other way round. Trust me, your best off putting a socket to it and learning it with your hand first. Its a common mistake!

bguild

dang, I got one side completed, then on the second side the lower strut bolt was in rough shape, and I stripped it. ugh. Not sure what happens now, going to start calling around to mechanics who have big daddy impact guns which might save the day. Guys, I can't emphasize enough, always use 6pt sockets, and soak every bolt like crazy in PB blaster. Most of the bolts on my car (14 yrs old) are disintegrating, and the most frusterating part of this job is all of the bolts I am removing are getting trashed). Weak hardware sucks!

Castle nut part number is: 90171-12002 $2.16 each
Castle nut clip is: 90468-16017 $1.35 each

Now some numbers:

lower strut bolt head is 17mm. lower strut bolt nut is 19mm.

Stabilizer bolt and nut are both 12mm, little bolts that attach the brake line bracket and ABS sensor like to arm are both 10mm. castle nut is 17mm, piston rod lock nut is 17mm, shock mount nuts are 14mm deep. If you end up having to take off the upper arm/ball joint combo, the long bolts (14mm head) attach through the body into the engine bay and attach to square nuts which are locked in place so no need to worry about loosing them.

zazzn

you know it's much eaiser to take out the 2 bolts instead of the balljoint... That way you don't damage the ball joint in the process of removing it.

Thats how I do it on my supra every time. It's vritually the same except it uses one long *** bolt....

just FYI! and you don't have to replace any nuts or clips.

Kaiser

iTrader: (1)

Good Lord no don't seperate the upper ball joint. You can't buy them seperately from the arm. They come pressed into the upper arm and on a deal from Toyota they were $330 a piece. Take out the two bolts as advised.

ricomr

iTrader: (1)

Of course I separated the ball joint and still couldn't get the lower strut bolt out (it has to be fused to the bushing) so I'm putting everything back together and one of the threads on the ball joint stud was damaged so the castle nut didn't want to go all the way back up. I ended up cutting a notch in the bottom of the stud using a dremel tool so I could hold it in place with a flat head screw driver while forcing the castle nut into place. Not my idea of a good time BTW

Aristo-cat

you guys are making it so complicated.

have a fat buddy stand on the hub assembly and remove. Thats it.