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1994 GS300 No Fuel, Have Spark and Air

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Old 09-02-07, 09:49 AM
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Noob94GS30
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Unhappy 1994 GS300 No Fuel, Have Spark and Air

Hello All! Noob here. I just got this car, a 1994 GS-300 equipped with the VIP inline six (as I was told). You turned the key and the car turns over normally, but will not fire. I was told that it was tested with some ether sprayed into the intake and it coughed as if it wanted to fire. You can press the gas pedal, but I do not smell any fuel at all nor can I hear the fuel pump working. Before removing the back seat and replacing the fuel pump, is there anything else I should try? As far as I can tell, this car has not ran since 2004 it is 2007 now. Also where can I get a manual for this car or what is a similar car? I read where you can jumper the fuel pump test in on the diagnostic block under the hood, but the fuel pump test is not marked clearly. Is it the one marked FP? What should I jumper it with and what results should I look for? I checked all fuses and relays (i swapped them around) all looked fine. Where does the fuel line come into the engine bay (for testing purposes). Anyway sorry for so many questions, just want to get this baby running.

Thanks All! Noob
Old 09-02-07, 12:06 PM
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Kaiser
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Try to jumper the fuel ECU in the trunk. It's on the driver side hidden behind the carpet. There is one 10mm nut and it comes out, it's clearly labeled as the Fuel ECU. There are 5 wires total. 3 are larger than the others. The white with black is the ground. The other two should be red with black and green with white. Jumper the green with white. Stick a paper clip or something into the back of the harness. Turn the key and this will deliver 12v straight to the pump. If it works, your fuel ECU is bad. Either permanently cross those wires and plug the ECU back in or get another ECU.
Old 09-03-07, 08:25 AM
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Opened the trunk, and removed the carpet. I do see the fuel filler tube along with the gas tank and what I think is access to the fuel pump. On the right side ( passenger side) there is a black block with wires coming in and out. Which is the ECU? There is no panel except what looks like access from the back seat.
Old 09-03-07, 09:23 AM
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Also removed back seat and panel, see another connection to the fuel tank. All is exposed now, but still dont see what could be the ECU. Are you sure it is back here and not under the hood?
Old 09-03-07, 09:40 AM
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Tried this... same results...
The following article courtesy of Steve Janda, Startrade:

"The fuel pump can be forced to operate in the high voltage setting by placing a jumper in the engine diagnostics connector between FP and +B terminals (for location of terminals see the label inside the diagnostics connector cover). A straightened up paper clip can be used as a jumper but must be inserted very deep in the terminals. This function is useful for checking that the fuel pump is not faulty (it can be heard running with the ignition on) and also to make the car mobile in case the fuel pump ECU is faulty. We strongly advise against driving the car for prolonged periods with the jumper inserted as the current draw of the pump in its high setting is about 7.3A and the pump may not have been designed to handle the load permanently and may overheat and seize, creating more (expensive) problems. At idle and under light loads the engine may be running rich due to increased fuel pressure"
Old 09-03-07, 10:28 AM
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Could you hear the fuel circulating?
Old 09-03-07, 03:21 PM
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No, I even unplugged the antenna to be sure... I hear nothing.
Old 09-03-07, 03:25 PM
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I am worried it is actually the fuel pump. What are your thoughts?

If this is that case, is this an acceptable replacment? On Ebay:

Walbro Fuel Pump Lexus 93-99 GS300/GS400 99-00 LS400
GENUINE WALBRO
$95.00 FREE SHIP USA- - ONLY$15 International Item number: 320149777392
Old 09-03-07, 06:01 PM
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Kaiser
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Get a mulitmeter and measure the resistance of the pump. Ohms should be 0.2 - 3.0 at 68 degrees ambient.
Old 09-03-07, 08:03 PM
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Ok, where will that need to be done? Do I measure the resistance at the diagnostic block or actually on the pump itself?
Old 09-03-07, 08:58 PM
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Shop manual says remove the pump to do it.
Old 09-04-07, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Noob94GS30
Tried this... same results...
The following article courtesy of Steve Janda, Startrade:

"The fuel pump can be forced to operate in the high voltage setting by placing a jumper in the engine diagnostics connector between FP and +B terminals (for location of terminals see the label inside the diagnostics connector cover). A straightened up paper clip can be used as a jumper but must be inserted very deep in the terminals. This function is useful for checking that the fuel pump is not faulty (it can be heard running with the ignition on) and also to make the car mobile in case the fuel pump ECU is faulty. We strongly advise against driving the car for prolonged periods with the jumper inserted as the current draw of the pump in its high setting is about 7.3A and the pump may not have been designed to handle the load permanently and may overheat and seize, creating more (expensive) problems. At idle and under light loads the engine may be running rich due to increased fuel pressure"

FYI this is from MKIV.com

There is an easy way around this. You can wire a 12 volt signal directly to the fuel pump, effectively bypassing the fuel pump ECU so that the fuel pump is always in high speed operation. The TT Supra is one of only a few cars that has this dual mode of fuel pump operation, whereas most cars always have 12 volts to the fuel pump. This mod is completely safe. You are basically just turning your complicated fuel system into a basic, Camry style fuel system. You may shorten the life of your fuel pump from say 20 years down to 18 years, but nothing to worry about in the short term. I've personally had mine hooked up this way for over 2 years now without any troubles.
Old 09-06-07, 06:27 PM
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Ordered a new fuel pump... hope this fixes it....
Old 09-10-07, 06:16 PM
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Ok, new fuel pump installed, I can hear that baby pumping now... but still no start. Not even a cough. Should I still jump the diag block to allow for only high voltage pumping? What else could it be!!!! AHHHHH Help!!!!
Old 09-11-07, 11:14 AM
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How are you so sure you have spark? Just cause the guy said it coughed once doesn't mean it's working. If you hear the fuel pump running, you have fuel going to the rail. It doesn't mean that your coil/ignitor/distributor is good. Pull one of the plug wires from the distributor cap. Hold it with a LONG pair of needle nose pliers and hold the pliers with a rag wrapped around it. Then wear a glove if you have it. Have a friend crank the the ignition and get the wire close to it's 'home' hole. The spark should jump from the distributor to the wire. Try to see what color it is if it does jump.


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