no heat, and i'm freezing
02-02-08, 10:48 AM
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no heat, and i'm freezing
ok, I bought this car in october, runs great, it started getting cold, and i noticed the heater didn't work, so I looked under the hood and found the heater control valve was missing, so i got one hoping that would fix my problem, well still no heat!! I also noticed that the electric fan is always on, is it suppose to be on all the time? I am starting to think that the t-stat is stuck open or missing, i am going to go buy a new one, today, i haven't really looked to where it is on this car, i hope it isn't in a hard to get to place!
I also noticed the car doesn't really warm up, the temp guage bearly makes it to the first line on the guage, what is the normal operating temp line?
I hope someone could get me some feedback soon, it is cold at 2:30 in the morning when i get off work.
I also noticed the car doesn't really warm up, the temp guage bearly makes it to the first line on the guage, what is the normal operating temp line?
I hope someone could get me some feedback soon, it is cold at 2:30 in the morning when i get off work.
02-02-08, 12:57 PM
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ok, I took the hose off the heater core, and the other end off the heater control valve, i blew through the hose and I think the core might be plugged, should I be able to blow through the hose?
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02-03-08, 07:21 AM
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02-03-08, 12:30 PM
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i can drive hours and it doesn't warm up, i was pulled over to the side of the road on my cell phone, for about 30 min. the temp guage went alost half way, but as soon as i took off, it dropped down all the way down
I used an air compressor and forced air through the heater core, and now i get a little heat, i might get some flush and see if that will loosen anything up in there. after the car had been sitting for a while, and i put everything back together, i started the car up with the rad cap off, it was flowing through right when i started it up, so that tells me there is either a stuck t-stat or no t-stat, now i need to know where the t-stat is, upper rad hose or lower?
I used an air compressor and forced air through the heater core, and now i get a little heat, i might get some flush and see if that will loosen anything up in there. after the car had been sitting for a while, and i put everything back together, i started the car up with the rad cap off, it was flowing through right when i started it up, so that tells me there is either a stuck t-stat or no t-stat, now i need to know where the t-stat is, upper rad hose or lower?
12-10-08, 09:18 PM
#11
Sure. Follow the lower radiator hose which exits the radiator near the bottom on the passenger side. That hose is about 18" long with a couple of factory bends, at the end of it is the hose clamp attached to the thermostat housing, which meets the engine just a few inches away and around the corner from the water pump. It's held in by two bolts is all, that are kinda angled down on the passenger side of the engine, you don't even need to take the hose clamp off of the housing to change the stat. I didn't have to move anything to get it out of there, just be sure have a pan underneath to catch all of the coolant because it will drain most of your radiator out. Replace stat, refill radiator, bleed system with engine running and heater on high, hopefully you are good to go. It can take awhile to bleed system, up to 20 minutes even. My temp needle sits right in the middle when the car is warm, and only takes a minute or two to start blowing warm air in the morning. I think it's more likely an open thermostat rather than a clogged heater core. Good luck and sorry for my run-on sentences, getting kinda late.
12-12-08, 08:03 AM
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Sure. Follow the lower radiator hose which exits the radiator near the bottom on the passenger side. That hose is about 18" long with a couple of factory bends, at the end of it is the hose clamp attached to the thermostat housing, which meets the engine just a few inches away and around the corner from the water pump. It's held in by two bolts is all, that are kinda angled down on the passenger side of the engine, you don't even need to take the hose clamp off of the housing to change the stat. I didn't have to move anything to get it out of there, just be sure have a pan underneath to catch all of the coolant because it will drain most of your radiator out. Replace stat, refill radiator, bleed system with engine running and heater on high, hopefully you are good to go. It can take awhile to bleed system, up to 20 minutes even. My temp needle sits right in the middle when the car is warm, and only takes a minute or two to start blowing warm air in the morning. I think it's more likely an open thermostat rather than a clogged heater core. Good luck and sorry for my run-on sentences, getting kinda late.
Thanks, been looking all over for a diagram of the cooling system, both hoses look like they could run into a t-stat housing, my luck i would have taken the wrong one off..
12-12-08, 02:40 PM
#13
The best diagrams I've found online, which include OEM Lexus Part #'s are on www.sewellpartsonline.com . Click on Engine & Cooling tab, enter your year & model, go to 'radiator & water outlet icon' and there you have it, a diagram with catalog #'s. Also, if you choose to purchase from Sewell which I recommend for their good pricing & service, enter 'SEWELL' in the promotional code at checkout for 10% off your parts total $.
Good luck, Mike
12-16-08, 10:01 AM
#15
bigdogg:
Have you replaced the thermostat and did that fix your heat?
Have you replaced the thermostat and did that fix your heat?