Drag GS - pics
01-21-09, 09:28 AM
#1
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Drag GS - pics
So while my motor is out for another refresh and some stronger rods(bent the stock ones) I decided to start working on the chassis. Engine bay is going to be spottless with nothing but an engine, turbo, radiator and brake booster.
Interior will still have the dash, but nothing behind it, and of course a cage.
I hope to keep the car around 3200lbs with the cage.
Interior will still have the dash, but nothing behind it, and of course a cage.
I hope to keep the car around 3200lbs with the cage.
01-21-09, 12:15 PM
#3
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I'm subscribing to this tread!
Now that’s what I've wanted to do. I ended up with a VIP style car with street and strip capabilities. Now I'm torn whether to put the car on a diet then cage it.
I'm on the look out for a rolling chassis and will strip it down and put it on a significant diet and a full 25 pt compliant cage. I have all the parts to build another monster drive train, just need the chassis and funding.
I've thought about converting my daily driver to the getrag V160. But if I do this to this car, I’m converting it to a road racer.
Consider welding all the seams to get the chassis stiffer and not having to worry about the seams pulling apart. The cage will primarily provide the stiffness but since you have everything out, might as well take care it before the cage gets put in.
Good luck with the build.
I'm on the look out for a rolling chassis and will strip it down and put it on a significant diet and a full 25 pt compliant cage. I have all the parts to build another monster drive train, just need the chassis and funding.
I've thought about converting my daily driver to the getrag V160. But if I do this to this car, I’m converting it to a road racer.
Consider welding all the seams to get the chassis stiffer and not having to worry about the seams pulling apart. The cage will primarily provide the stiffness but since you have everything out, might as well take care it before the cage gets put in.
Good luck with the build.
01-21-09, 12:37 PM
#4
Intermediate
Thread Starter
I think with a cage, especially a 25 point you won't need to weld the seams. Plus they are glued together, so good luck even attempting to weld.
I will be going with a 10 point cage...at lease for now
Ordering a JD2 bender, notcher and their cool little needle notch guide.
Goal for this year is low 9's and possibly high 8's. We will see.
New motor will be built much stronger with more turbo and more nitrous.
I will be going with a 10 point cage...at lease for now
Ordering a JD2 bender, notcher and their cool little needle notch guide.
Goal for this year is low 9's and possibly high 8's. We will see.
New motor will be built much stronger with more turbo and more nitrous.
01-21-09, 01:25 PM
#5
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True the cage will take care of the stiffness.
Here's my experience on my test chassis last year.
I had a JDM half clip that I took apart. The firewall area the spot welds and glue are really strong. The wheel well and shock towers is extremely strong as one would expect and for the obvious. I did experiment removing exposed glue and welding the seams. It’s a lot of work no doubt but would add eventually keep the chassis from ever separating. The chassis will twist if there's no additional structural support specially when pushing big power and torque.
The left and side lower runners the seams were easily separated by a pneumatic hammer with a chisel and spade. The front area radiator support was also easily dismantled the same way.
Here's my experience on my test chassis last year.
I had a JDM half clip that I took apart. The firewall area the spot welds and glue are really strong. The wheel well and shock towers is extremely strong as one would expect and for the obvious. I did experiment removing exposed glue and welding the seams. It’s a lot of work no doubt but would add eventually keep the chassis from ever separating. The chassis will twist if there's no additional structural support specially when pushing big power and torque.
The left and side lower runners the seams were easily separated by a pneumatic hammer with a chisel and spade. The front area radiator support was also easily dismantled the same way.
01-21-09, 01:43 PM
#7
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Looks great.....so far! Your car is honestly the only car that makes this site worthy of me to come look at 
Check your PM for one of our past convo's regarding eliminating wheel hop and LMK.
Check your PM for one of our past convo's regarding eliminating wheel hop and LMK.
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01-22-09, 04:34 PM
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I wish I cleaned the seams
Your engine bay will look something like this.
If I had to do it again, I would have cleaned up the glue from the seams and then weld the seams and smooth them out. Lots of work but the engine bay would have looked great!
No cage in this car... yet. But SuprRunner's build is tempting me. I hate to loose the passenger seats and getting 4/5 people in the car.
SuprRunner should be reach the low 9's with a stripped down drag GS. I'm looking forward seeing this happen!!!
If I had to do it again, I would have cleaned up the glue from the seams and then weld the seams and smooth them out. Lots of work but the engine bay would have looked great!
No cage in this car... yet. But SuprRunner's build is tempting me. I hate to loose the passenger seats and getting 4/5 people in the car.
SuprRunner should be reach the low 9's with a stripped down drag GS. I'm looking forward seeing this happen!!!
05-17-09, 04:27 AM
#12
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Here is an update.
I ordered the JD Squared bender...along with some other goodies and built this:
Two days after finishing the bender, this is how the GS looks now.
Sorry, first pic a little blurry.
I ordered the JD Squared bender...along with some other goodies and built this:
Two days after finishing the bender, this is how the GS looks now.
Sorry, first pic a little blurry.
05-17-09, 06:48 AM
#13
nice work Rob. i like what you did with the bars to the tunnel off the main hoop. you dont require a diagonal on the main hoop?? rear legs are permitted to be bent? mine have to be straight, so i welded a bar in btween the rear shock towers and attached them there. of course mine is subject to a little more twist swinging side to side 
