Turbocharging My 1994 GS300
02-22-09, 09:33 PM
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Turbocharging My 1994 GS300
Hi, I am new to cl and I need to know the cheapest piggyback I could use with my 94 gs300(2JZGE) .I made the mistake and went to my mechanic to install a turbo kit thinking I didnt need anything else so this time I decided to do some homework .Im tring to get 320-350hp and all I have is the turbo kit it includes wastegate, bov, headers, intercooler, turbo(of course) and pipping, oil lines, hoses ect. Do I need anything else as you can see I need all the help I could get ,thanks in advance. BTW what would have happened to my engine if I had the turbo installed without a piggyback.
02-23-09, 12:08 PM
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https://www.clublexus.com/forums/gs-...-t-thread.html
+1 on Apexi SAFC
Easy to use, and affordable. I also think you should get a Wideband Air fuel ratio gauge, so you can tell if your running rich or lean. You can also do a decent tune with the SAFC and the AFR Guage.
+1 on Apexi SAFC
Easy to use, and affordable. I also think you should get a Wideband Air fuel ratio gauge, so you can tell if your running rich or lean. You can also do a decent tune with the SAFC and the AFR Guage.
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02-24-09, 08:48 AM
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Why? Because the factory ecu and simple fuel computers such as an s-afc does not have the ability to pull timing under boost. The ecu will continue to treat the timing map as if its still non-turbo and put in too much timing advance at x rpm. Adding a bunch of fuel to keep the cylinder cool and deter knock might help, but obviously it'll run too rich and untimately you will be sacrificing power.....the whole point of the turbo anyhow 
Now to do this its quite simple. Grab yourself a timing gun, jump the wire per the service manual to adjust timing, the retard it. The amount of boost will tell you how much to retard, being safe will be 1 degree per psi boost which isn't a bad idea with a simple fuel computer than may not allow great resolution of fuel adjustment across the map (lean spots). If you have a good hold of adjusting a/f across the map then I'd be a little more aggressive and pull .5 degree per psi. So if your running 10psi boost, then pull 5 degrees.....timing at idle would now be 5 degrees vs. 10.
Hope this helps clear up any questions.
Now to do this its quite simple. Grab yourself a timing gun, jump the wire per the service manual to adjust timing, the retard it. The amount of boost will tell you how much to retard, being safe will be 1 degree per psi boost which isn't a bad idea with a simple fuel computer than may not allow great resolution of fuel adjustment across the map (lean spots). If you have a good hold of adjusting a/f across the map then I'd be a little more aggressive and pull .5 degree per psi. So if your running 10psi boost, then pull 5 degrees.....timing at idle would now be 5 degrees vs. 10.
Hope this helps clear up any questions.
02-24-09, 05:30 PM
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Well in that case your limited. But depending on turbo and fuel setup you shouldn't have any trouble making that with an safc. Just do yourself a favor and get some cheap insurance in the way of a wide band o2 sensor/gauge. For $300 new you cant go wrong. $400 between that and a used safc and you should be good to go!
02-24-09, 08:16 PM
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Well in that case your limited. But depending on turbo and fuel setup you shouldn't have any trouble making that with an safc. Just do yourself a favor and get some cheap insurance in the way of a wide band o2 sensor/gauge. For $300 new you cant go wrong. $400 between that and a used safc and you should be good to go!