Sanding Inside of Headlights.
04-12-09, 05:30 PM
#4
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A good way to find out is start high and go low, don't start too low because you could get the scratches going too deep then make the plastic really thin trying to get those scratches out, GL man !
04-12-09, 07:24 PM
#5
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Hmm, Ill try this method, I was hoping a member who has already done this would chime in. Also the lines seem to contribute to the yellow haze after I painted the inside of the lights black, thats the main reason Im getting rid of em.
04-13-09, 12:01 AM
#6
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i tried it,but gave up shortly after.the lines are pretty thick and i first used 80 grit on a palm sander,then used higher grit paper as it was getting close to being flat.it took me awhile to get them flat and then i used 1000-2000 grit paper to make them smooth.then i used a clear plastic polish to make them clear.oh,i should mention i only did it to a very,very small portion of the headlight just to see if it worked.its very time consuming.
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04-13-09, 02:42 AM
#8
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use a very low grit as stated above..
80-100 or so.. USE A POWER TOOL! they have some discs
that have sandpaper on them(under 100 grit) on a 2" diameter
wheel that u can put on a power drill..
once most of the lines are good. you can move up..
220, then to like 400, then to 800..
as you move up the grit levels.. YOU MUST SAND ALL the deeper
marks completely off. that means u cannot proceed to 400 if there
are still lines that 220 can take off on there..
this is because as you move up the ladder, it'll be harder and harder
to get rid of deeper marks because your sand paper is less aggressive.
i do 1000, 1500, 2000 as well.. i managed to find some 3000 grit from meguiars
but its hard to locate.. special order in most stores. the paper itself
it from japan..
after this, i use rubbing compound and a buffing pad/powerball type piece
with it to buff the lens back to a glass finish.. you can use novus as well..
novus #3 first, then #2 after...
after that u can use plastiX and/or other swirl removers to help the gloss
show up better.. seal it with some wax.
80-100 or so.. USE A POWER TOOL! they have some discs
that have sandpaper on them(under 100 grit) on a 2" diameter
wheel that u can put on a power drill..
once most of the lines are good. you can move up..
220, then to like 400, then to 800..
as you move up the grit levels.. YOU MUST SAND ALL the deeper
marks completely off. that means u cannot proceed to 400 if there
are still lines that 220 can take off on there..
this is because as you move up the ladder, it'll be harder and harder
to get rid of deeper marks because your sand paper is less aggressive.
i do 1000, 1500, 2000 as well.. i managed to find some 3000 grit from meguiars
but its hard to locate.. special order in most stores. the paper itself
it from japan..
after this, i use rubbing compound and a buffing pad/powerball type piece
with it to buff the lens back to a glass finish.. you can use novus as well..
novus #3 first, then #2 after...
after that u can use plastiX and/or other swirl removers to help the gloss
show up better.. seal it with some wax.
04-13-09, 02:48 AM
#10
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i usually start with 400 grit for the rough stuff...then onto 1000 grit....and end with 2000 grit. if you can find 2500 or 3000 grit...go for it....then finish off with rubbing compound or plastix.
04-13-09, 12:08 PM
#12
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there was a company in canada recently posted up..
"clear as the moon" or something? and they were producing various
rare parts for our body style GS300(jzs147)... they were making
clear lens for the JDM housings...
and YES it is a lot of work.. heres mines...
i have some 1 watt luxeon as a driving light along with a few
superflux amber to go in the little hump on the jdm ones..
in the end.. ive compared the results with a SC that has the
clear lens from japan. an aftermarket clear lens would be much cleaner
looking than a sanded down oem one with a buff. dont get me wrong.
a new piece just looks like a new piece, thats why.
"clear as the moon" or something? and they were producing various
rare parts for our body style GS300(jzs147)... they were making
clear lens for the JDM housings...
and YES it is a lot of work.. heres mines...
i have some 1 watt luxeon as a driving light along with a few
superflux amber to go in the little hump on the jdm ones..
in the end.. ive compared the results with a SC that has the
clear lens from japan. an aftermarket clear lens would be much cleaner
looking than a sanded down oem one with a buff. dont get me wrong.
a new piece just looks like a new piece, thats why.
Last edited by VIPin626; 04-13-09 at 12:13 PM.
04-13-09, 06:53 PM
#13
the orig lenses are what a 15 year old injection molded plastic and with age = pretty rough. a replacement lense out of acrylite or a 2009 polymer is much nicer. site admin deleted the moon thread but someone else can post a link. we are pretty much on schedule.
04-13-09, 07:53 PM
#14
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04-14-09, 12:19 AM
#15
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^^^hmmmm,i dont know about that.its not a complete lense replacement.meaning you cant just remove the original one and pop that one right in.looks like you're gonna have to cut out the outer of the original lense and glue the replacement on.but other than that,it'll make the car look much better.