7Cain

Hey guys (and gals). My car was recently flooded from a storm in my area and I am having electrical problems. Some of you have had your cars completely apart and may be able to help me get my machine back on the streets with your knowledge of whats under the carpet. My car had standing water in the floorboards but the water did not go over the center console. I know there are computers and connections under the carpet, what I don't know is what they are called and where to find replacements for them. I cleaned the car out, drained all the water, checked the motor for any water in the oil or tranny. I got the car running and everything was fine, until the next morning when I went to start it the battery indicator came on and I figured the alternator might have been failing so I went to move the car and as soon as I hit the brake to put it in reverse I heard a click and lost all my guages, power steering, power brakes, windows are nonresponsive as well as the seats. Mechanically the engine is sound but I have not been able to bring the electrical back to life (even though the car is completely dry now). Please help me, I miss my car and it sucks having sit in the driveway with the windows down and sunroof open covered by a tarp like a catrina victim.

Rising_Sun

iTrader: (2)

What year is your GS? I have a spare 93-95 ECU from my parts car.

Duds

Does the engine still start? Just the electrical went or both? What happens when you turn the key? Any noises?

7Cain

Engine starts and runs fine, mechanically everything is functional. Just no dash, brake lights, ect.. It is a '93.

7Cain

Ok I know it's been a while but I'm still working on this. I have tried swapping ecu's as well as the relay integration module. I am now having to check all the junction blocks and relays. The integration relay is getting power from port 6 but it looks like it should have power coming through more than just that port, and I have nothing coming out of the module. A different module has not made any improvement, the dealer wants 300+ but a salvage yard gave it up for 35.

Still no dash, gauges, power windows and sunroof, brake lights, turn signals, or power seats. I do have, a great running engine, headlights, entry lights, door dinger, horn, and dome light.

Oh yeah, and I pulled up all the carpet and seats, and there is nothing on that floorboard under the carpet. Insurance companies will try to tell you that you have a bunch of computers and modules under the seats and carpet but that is not true. I even had one agent try to tell me that my car is exactly like a camry, I told him he was an idiot.

7Cain

just decided to try to replace my 100A alt fuse in junction box 2 because it looked like it got fried, fuse started to fall apart while removing. Nothing I could do to save it, so started letting it break apart so I could grab the metal leads to remove the fuse. It does not want to come off, and I have pulled with quite a bit of force using some good pliers (not needle-nose) and it doesn't seem to want to budge. So I have to ask, this fuse is sopposed to slide on and off right? just like all the other maxi fuses? it's a little bigger but same basic construction. I can't for the life of me figure out what is holding these leads on. any help would be great. thanks, for now i'll try a little more elbogrease

7Cain

Well that was interesting, I figured out the fuse and in case anyone else tries to pull this, DON'T TRY TO PULL THE FUSE! You cannot pull the 100A ALT fuse on junction box 2 (under the hood) without removing the fuse panel first! I learned the hard way once you unbolt the battery main side of the panel and the negative side there is one more bolt toward the rear closer to the fender. the unit picks up a little bit and you have to disconnect the harnesses, then the unit comes free. now you have access to the bolts that clamp the alt wire to the fuse from underneath. you cannot get this fuse out without doing this.

once I reinstall this it's on to the next thing. Testing all these relays and connections related to the problems: main power relay to box 1, testing relay integration, cleaning harness terminals and checking for continuity.

7Cain

well, went to autozone who said they had the right fuse for 100A alt fuse, turns out its a cheap universal unit that doesn't even have the right size bolt pattern. I could file it and make it work but I'm not interested in taking the chance since the faceplates are not the same size anyway, it is the size of a maxi fuse, but the alt fuse is much bigger in the face even though the basic shape is the same, different dimensions. so no progress tonight.

Am I going to have to go through the dealer to get this fuse or is there a reputable company who will sell these fuses.

Carfreak70

iTrader: (16)

You are prolly going to have to go to a dealer. I was going to suggest checking every single one of your fuses, in both places.

7Cain

I'd go to a dealer if they wouldn't charge me an arm and a leg for the things I have been doing by myself. But now your talking about towing a car to a dealer to have them "take a look" and then they will tell me that everything needs to be replaced (at dealer cost). my problem is there is one key link that shut everything down and now the search is narrowing. The most conistant thing I have seen in the repair manual is the main FL, wire harness and what looks like now as the Alt fuse. have to keep checking from there.

Carfreak70

iTrader: (16)

I wouldnt let them take a look. Just go with the part that you need and say I need this. Its going to be a little more expensive, but dont forget there are sources on this website for dealers. If you know what it is, then they will be able to fix it man.

7Cain

Happy friggin holidays! It was the Alt Fuse (which looked good but looks can be decieving). I had to remove relay block2 completely (the fuse box under the hood) and unbolt this fuse from underneath which connects directly to the alt wire. So I get another fuse from the dealer that turns out to be the same damn thing I got from autozone (different maker). Only there's cost $16+ as apposed to autozones 3dollar special. Either way, they are both rated at 100A. they just aren't the same size blades, what else to do but flatten them out and shape it to fit the bolt pattern. Viola! it worked like a charm and now I have all my instruments back online, windows, turn signals, brake lights, and I'm a happy camper! Only problem, is that it's been sitting since april and I have not been able to get the transmission to engage any pointers to start with?) Is there a sensor that could have gotten wet that tells the tranny to engage?

Anyway I'm stoked, merry christmasand happy new year, I sure hope this is a good sign for the new year. I've been dealing with this since april, I'd love to be able to drive my car again. now I just have to send this spare ecu out to someone to remap it, is Jet still around? any recommendation?

7Cain

When the car got flooded, the alternator sits low by the bottom of the motor. It got wet, shorted out, and the car started running off the battery. I got in the next morning, battery light came on letting me know the alt is acting screwy, press the brake pedal to take out of park, parking release switch activates, and BAM! alt surges from moisture or load, fries the main power fuse in junction box1 as well as defog, and the main 100A fuse. I think this is a good learning lesson. Make enough money to have someone else figure this shy+e out!

Stolen

FYI just be careful when using an (Auto Zone or any parts store fuse for the ALT.) I'm saying this case I've been down this road, wish I saw you post sooner. The car I have now had a cheap Alt fuse in it from the previous owner and I thought my Alt or Batt was dieing. Turned out the after market fuse used was a little bit smaller then the dealer one and did fill the square where it plugs in completely causing it to move and eventually melted the actual fuse block. Had to get correct fuse from dealer and buy salvage fuse block for 60 bucks. Don't want to see anyone else go down this road. Good Luck Though!!!

7Cain

Yeah I was concerned about that. I got a fuse from the dealership and it was the exact same size and shape as the autozone fuse. I decided to use the autozone fuse because the dealer fuse was 16 bucks versus 3. I don't think there is a chance of it moving around with it bolted down pretty tight.

I am having trouble with the transmission though. The damn thing just wont engage, does anyone have any idea of what the first thing to go would be (after sitting for 8 months). I looked into solenoids and I am just thinking it is something simple, even a vacum line or something. I might post a new thread on this as I have had no luck with the search feature.