gated shifter?
02-24-11, 12:19 PM
#34
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hey guys i just picked up a 2nd Gen GS shifter for $25 off eBay. Does anyone know how to get this project started for me?? I've taken apart my center console completely before. But, how hard of a mod is this going to be?? It seems that everyone is doing LS/IS gated shifters. Anyone know about a 2nd Gen GS shifter??
02-24-11, 07:00 PM
#35
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IDK I'm following Tommy Wong's route of the Ls shifter. Tommy the wires color matched from one car to the other? I'm finally gonna take the leap and sacrifice the rear AC. I got a guy down here in miami to fab up the trim out of an old chipped trim I had.
03-12-11, 02:21 AM
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My write up from when I put a LS shifter into my Aristo.
If you look at the shifter pics above you'll notice quite a large difference once you look carefully.
Namely the one at the bottom is mounted quite a bit further back. Now this is the way I've also done it and requires less fabrication and to my mind at least puts the shifter in the better position for manual use.
To get it this far back your going to have to cut the plastic and metal well on the shifter unit. You can then mount it using the holes designed for mounting the centre console. (you'll need to drill new holes at the front though)
You now need to remove the split pin from the bolt at the bottom of the shifter arm, then take the bolt and turn it round otherwise when using first (L) it will catch on the prop shaft donut. Then bolt it to the connecting rod for the gearbox.
Once this is done that's all the mechanical work done. Now for the fun and untested side, as my car hasn't been fired up.
The simplest part is the shift lights we are currently working on the theory (possibly wrongly ) that all the gearbox tell-tale lights are controlled by the gearbox ecu as on neither shifter is there any switches to activate the lights, so I've just unscrewed the tell-tale from the surround and plugged it in then put it in space under the center console in case it's required to complete a circuit. Once the cars back I'll try it without but the less things Nick has to worry about if he has starting problems later, the better.
The power switch is even easier as that just plugs in.
Now it gets interesting take the black shift lock control box off your old gearbox and take the white one off the new one you need to swap these boxes over but of course it isn't that straight forward
You need the output connections from the white box onto the black box. Do yourself a little diagram as the wires are in a different order though the colours are the same. You then need to cut the 3 green wires (these have different size pins) then solder and shrink wrap the 3 equivalent wires. The two blue wires you can pop out of the old plug and then click into the new one. You now have a hybrid shift lock control ecu. I swapped the cases over for ease of mounting but I think leaving the black case on would've been easier ( if anyone else tries this could they post up and let us know)
Now for the overdrive lockout, this again is just a case of popping the input connectors out of the ls plug and replacing with the Aristo one. I unfortunately didn't write down which these wires were, they go to the switch next to the D-3 toggle and I think they are numbered 1 and 2 in the plug. (check with a circuit tester anyway if pressing the button makes the circuit you've got the right wires.
The only thing left now is the illumination, mine isn't currently connected but I'm going to extend the wiring from the lights on the cigarette lighter surround and take power from that.
It's now just a car of modifying the wood surround & taking some off the underside of the console to clear the plastic guide at the back of the shifter.
You'll also need to modify the ducting a certain amount if you want working rear vents as the ls shifter is wider and now obviously sat further back. I'm just going to cut the offending sections with a Stanley knife and then use duct tape for it's intended use for the first time ever
If you look at the shifter pics above you'll notice quite a large difference once you look carefully.
Namely the one at the bottom is mounted quite a bit further back. Now this is the way I've also done it and requires less fabrication and to my mind at least puts the shifter in the better position for manual use.
To get it this far back your going to have to cut the plastic and metal well on the shifter unit. You can then mount it using the holes designed for mounting the centre console. (you'll need to drill new holes at the front though)
You now need to remove the split pin from the bolt at the bottom of the shifter arm, then take the bolt and turn it round otherwise when using first (L) it will catch on the prop shaft donut. Then bolt it to the connecting rod for the gearbox.
Once this is done that's all the mechanical work done. Now for the fun and untested side, as my car hasn't been fired up.
The simplest part is the shift lights we are currently working on the theory (possibly wrongly ) that all the gearbox tell-tale lights are controlled by the gearbox ecu as on neither shifter is there any switches to activate the lights, so I've just unscrewed the tell-tale from the surround and plugged it in then put it in space under the center console in case it's required to complete a circuit. Once the cars back I'll try it without but the less things Nick has to worry about if he has starting problems later, the better.
The power switch is even easier as that just plugs in.
Now it gets interesting take the black shift lock control box off your old gearbox and take the white one off the new one you need to swap these boxes over but of course it isn't that straight forward
You need the output connections from the white box onto the black box. Do yourself a little diagram as the wires are in a different order though the colours are the same. You then need to cut the 3 green wires (these have different size pins) then solder and shrink wrap the 3 equivalent wires. The two blue wires you can pop out of the old plug and then click into the new one. You now have a hybrid shift lock control ecu. I swapped the cases over for ease of mounting but I think leaving the black case on would've been easier ( if anyone else tries this could they post up and let us know)
Now for the overdrive lockout, this again is just a case of popping the input connectors out of the ls plug and replacing with the Aristo one. I unfortunately didn't write down which these wires were, they go to the switch next to the D-3 toggle and I think they are numbered 1 and 2 in the plug. (check with a circuit tester anyway if pressing the button makes the circuit you've got the right wires.
The only thing left now is the illumination, mine isn't currently connected but I'm going to extend the wiring from the lights on the cigarette lighter surround and take power from that.
It's now just a car of modifying the wood surround & taking some off the underside of the console to clear the plastic guide at the back of the shifter.
You'll also need to modify the ducting a certain amount if you want working rear vents as the ls shifter is wider and now obviously sat further back. I'm just going to cut the offending sections with a Stanley knife and then use duct tape for it's intended use for the first time ever
03-12-11, 02:34 AM
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My car has been fired up since the write up was done the only problem is that pressing the brake doesn't allow it back into park and the button needs to be used, either I've not made a very good connection or an extra connection needs to be made. If necessary I'm going to disconnect the shift lock as the gate system means its unlikely to get knocked anyway.
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