gs2impress

i didnt refill back with coolant either i am still runnin on water ...no leaks or overheatin wat so eva

Aristoman

iTrader: (1)

so all you do is flush it, remove thermostat, fill with water and add that stuff and let it sit for a while then flush it and refill it with coolant?

Cuban GS

iTrader: (1)

this morning i noticed the bubbling for the first time! i have never had ANY issues with anything! i followed this guide to the T as well changed the thermostat! i hope this prevents any possible future issues! thanks for the thread!!!

kene

iTrader: (2)

This is just a supplement to the Blue Devil Instructions on the bottle. Read the bottle first then read here and visualize and plan what you are going to do before hand. (I believe the thermostat housing nuts are a 10mm wrench)

**Also check your thermostat first**
[put into a pot of boiling water, and if it doesn't open then it more than likely is bad. water boils at 212F(100 Celsius), our thermostats are supposed to start to open at 190F, aftermarket ones can go lower in temp

**And check your radiator cap**

**Also check your water pump** - if you can see/get to it.
It has been a while since I had mine put in, but usually water pumps have a seepage hole or two located on the base of the stem/shaft or on the stem/shaft itself. this is there so that if anything goes wrong internally the coolant/water can seep out through this hole. If you have access or can see/feel(feel with the motor off) around this area check it out. Mechanics use the fluorescent dye in the coolant system and then get under the car with a fluorescent light with the motor running to see if its leaking from there or other places.....Personally for me that's over kill, but if you have the time and patience go for it.(I don't)

**Also check your radiator**
Look and see if you've got water streams running down your radiator. If you do then there more than likely are pinhole seepage areas that will let the water/pressure out of your coolant system. budget radiators can be had from ebay for as little as 40$ new(2 row-plastic housing). All aluminum race radiators(2 or 3 row) can be purchased from ebay for as low as $140 under a 93-97 toyota supra. You may have to make 2 top custom mounts as to secure the radiator(sc300 guys don't worry as much cause their mounts "kinda" match up) the only problem here is that almost all of those radiators listed are for manual transmissions, which means you will need to purchase a transmission cooler. No problem, Ebay has those too at around 40$ for a 17 row tranny cooler(8"x12" if my memory serves me right). You Just have to figure out where your gonna place it, and mount it yourself

Note:
(I only saw 2 all aluminum radiators for the gs300. If you see them listed zoom in on the picture and make sure that you see the inlet and the outlet plugs at the bottom(left usually) of the radiator for the auto transmission fluid. If they are not there, then its the same as above, you gotta get that tranny cooler. Be Careful not to mix them up with radiator mounting holes).



Link:
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/per...-pictures.html



DIY/Instructional (2nd test of Blue Devil)

1)
I would flush it with prestone radiator flush[sodium citrate for those who are worried] first(small yellow bottle ~ $3.50). follow those instructions.
[Note: I used two of the bottles and followed their instructions]

2)
Once done with those instructions, then flush the system thoroughly with a water hose in the radiator inlet hole(make sure that the coolant drain plug is unscrewed completely out from the bottom corner area of the radiator[driver side] so that everything shoots out the bottom drain, and also the radiator drain plug hole as the water is sprayed in).
I did this with a water hose nozzle (like this yellow pistol grip one in the link below) at full blast in about 4-5 sec increments about 5 times depending on your water pressure your time may be different.

http://www.worldmarketsupply.com/pg-..._pressure.html


3a)
When done put the plug back in the radiator, remove the thermostat (a must do, especially if you have the yellow label Blue Devil Gasket Seal. The white label is supposedly pour into the radiator as it is with coolant....I dunno never used it, but read the instructions if you get it. If unsure they have a great customer service help line to walk you through it...that's what I heard) and make sure that the thermostat housing is bolted down tight.


3b-optional)
This step is to verify the thermostat housing is on secure with no leaks.
My suggestion is to repeat step 2 again(only for a 2-4 sec full blast of water) but with the radiator's drain plug unscrewed enough so that the water will drain out only from the intended bottom radiator drain this time. When you do this keep an eye on the thermostat housing and see if there area any drips/sprays. If there are, then you may want to tighten those 2 nut some more so that you won't have any leaks.


4)
Now that everything is fine, fill the system with water (de-ionized water is best as it does not rust[$1.25/gallon - Walmart]. Also, there is 2 gallon capacity in our systems...possibly more if you have an aftermarket radiator). For me I ended up putting around 1.2 gallons because I knew there was still some water left in the block after the water hose procedure and I wanted to leave enough room for the Blue Devil sealant that would be going in.(Note after Blue Devil was poured in, I added extra water to top the radiator off.)


5)
ENGINE MUST BE COLD!!
ENGINE MUST BE COLD!!

If you cannot touch the motor or even exhaust manifold, it may still be too warm. Wait it out, or lightly hose down the exhaust manifold & sides of the motor with the water until the water doesn't sizzle anymore.

Start the Cold motor(Turn on heater to full blast at its hottest setting) and pour in slowly the Blue Devil sealant.
[1/2 quart for 3 gallons water]
[1/3 quart for 2 gallons water] - Our 2jzge capacity(not listed on bottle, Source: Autozone)

As for the amount to pour in I guess it is up to you, but no less than 1/3rd the bottle. If you are doing half a bottle it should take about 30 secs of time(I read this from a success story or two online). If you are pouring the whole bottle it should take 1 minute. That is how slowly you should be pouring it in.
This test(2nd) I poured in half the bottle.(For 2 gallons it measures out to be 1/3 the bottle, but I wanted a little more solution for insurance)

With this amount(1/2 bottle) the temperature hangs around a bit below the mid point(similar to a standard coolant gs300)

Make sure the heater is still on full blast and at its hottest temperature whilst letting the car idle for 50 minutes. After the 50 minutes you can take it for a test drive.(keep in mind it doesn't hurt to let it idle longer if you are uneasy.)




With the first test(my 2nd or 3rd entry into this post) everything was great. The engineer at heart wanted to test this even more. (Bear in mind I had already logged 50 miles so far)So I got an oil change early at the crack of dawn, and drove the 26.6 miles from chino to san bernardino at 105 mph. In dis-belief everything was kosher. On the way back everything was great too until I got to within 3 miles of my original departure. Then It started to Overheat So I pulled over and poured in some water that I had brought planning for this. Funny thing was, for a brief moment the temp went up right above the 4/5's line and as soon as I hit brakes It dropped to the 1/5 line in about 1.5 secs of time.
This was with 1 full bottle of Blue Devil sealant in the system and no thermostat. It took me driving it hard as ever to get the stuff to fail.
My lady was scared the whole way. Not at the fact that it would overheat, but by how hard I was pushing the car trying to get it to overheat.

So I got her home and repeat flushed, etc. and put in the 2nd bottle. On the 2nd test I only used half the bottle and have been driving the car like a normal person would. and everything is great.



Just a heads up:


There was a horror story or two on the net message boards(Land Rovers/Range Rover site) I came across, because the guy just went and poured the blue devil into his radiator WITH THE COOLANT IN THERE!(I believe he received an incorrect label on his bottle) The end result was a crystalline/ jello solution that formed in his cooling system and radiator.

Link:
http://www.landroversonly.com/forums...problem-39900/







If there is anything I forgot please feel free to add.

kene

iTrader: (2)

Oh yeah Aristoman I would leave it in the system. I think it would only pose a problem possibly if you live in an area where it constantly snows/freezes over.
And if you must put coolant in the system my suggestion would be to run water through the system at a very, very low pressure(so you don't break off the crystallized/sealed Blue Devil Solution from the bad head gasket.).


Also If you can, get yourself some de-ionized water to mix with the Blue Devil Sealant, so your block walls don't rust.



Just thought of this as well, and I didn't say anything on it...
If your coolant reservoir has a very, very slight bubbling sound, It does not necesarily mean you have a bad head gasket. When the motor cools down keep an eye on your radiator level. And if it is consistently the same no matter how far or how you drive, then you're probably fine.

When the Block gets hot, it expands, thus pushing coolant up into the reservoir tank.
If after driving you get out of the car and listen and hear some very slight bubbling, and you are able to pop the top of the reservoir tank without fear of being sprayed/burned then everything may very well be ok. But if you get out of the car and your reservoir tank sounds like a boiling pot of water, and vibrates/shakes with the bubbling sounds then it can very well be a bad head gasket, bad thermostat not opening, or even a faulty radiator cap.

Here is a Animated Diagram
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system7.htm

Aristoman

iTrader: (1)

Great write up! Thanks

Cuban GS

iTrader: (1)

the blue devil held for about a day and a half! im waiting for the flat bed to take the car to the mechanic as i type this!

kene

iTrader: (2)

Aww dang, I'm sorry to hear that.... please keep us posted as to how things turn out, and if you are going the new head gasket route could you take pics of the head, the head gasket, and top of the block and they get the motor apart, so we can see what it looks like?


Mine is still going strong. Hmm? Was there any coolant in the system when you mixed in the blue devil? Did you let the car idle for 50 minutes after the blue devil was poured in? What was the whole scenario before you pulled over and called the tow truck?(Speed, outside temperature, Temp gauge reading,etc,)

I'm just curious so as much info can be compiled together.

Aristoman

iTrader: (1)

might as well do a GTE swap. Good Luck

Cuban GS

iTrader: (1)

okay soo..

i followed all the steps even pulled out the thermostat! it actually ran GREAT and colder than ever! first made a stop at a ATM, then a brazilian restaurant about 20 mins away, the whole time with the a/c blowing COLD! then drove to a gelato spot afterwards! everything was great! on the way i decided to stop by a local firestone with some nice lighting to snap some new pics of the Lex and i can hear the reservoir bubbling! my wife took some pics and we let the Lex cool down! then in about a 5 min ride home to the house the needle hits H! i was like WTF! that was last night then today i tried driving it to the mechanic and barely made it back to the same firestone, except this time i can clearly see coolant spewing from the engine! it was right around where the thermostat is so i thought maybe i left something loose but nope!

whats the going rate for a 2jz swap these days? not sure if its a coincidence but there is a 2jz from an aristo in japan that is sitting next to my car at the shop! it is for a supra project they have coming up unless it goes in my Lex first! 2jz and auto mMmmm! hehe

kene

iTrader: (2)

ebay has em for $1,600 at the lowest(Motor, auto aristo tranny, and ecu w/ harness.)
but make sure to do reasearch on the sellers quality rating and ask the seller all kinds of questions(how many miles were on the veicle before it was taken out, what is the compression in all 6 cylinders, how he can verify and prove to you the buyer that the compression is ok...etc) before you even think of bidding. Remember that they can easily clean the outside of the motor, but its whats inside that you are mostly concerned about.

dang.. I'm sorry to hear that...

take many pics of the motor if they tear it apart.

"G"

Thanks for Lookin Out! Ain't got that problem, YET! Picking up a bottle anyway. Preventive maintenance hopefully! Thanks Again!

kene

iTrader: (2)

Just a heads up for the members in the future who may come across this thread.
(not trying to resurface old threads but,)....

If your fan clutch is not working this product may work for a while, but the water/sodium cilicate mixture will still buble over, and you will still see overheating problems, because your fluid is not being cooled at all by your radiator fan, so that may be something you may want to check as well.

This was my issue.

Also sodium silicate can be had for 30$ for a gallon(3.78 x's more than the blue devil container and not 70$ a bottle.)
Just google it and darn near every online chemistry store has it for sale.

DO NOT USE ANY OF THESE SEALERS THAT CONTAIN SODIUM SILICATE IF YOUR OIL IS MILKY BROWN/WHITE DUE TO COOLANT CONTAMINATION.
this would be the last thing you want in your oil crankcase.

deknick

cuban did you fill it up with coolant? or water?


and this stuff is only a temp. fix, there's no WAY, if you know anything about vehicles and the mechcanics that goes into them, that this would be healthy for an engine long term.


to everyone that's replaced the rad, and still has overheating issues, did you bleed all the air bubbles out of the rad and out of the heater core at the back?