fyi!!!head gasket or internal coolant leak...
08-09-10, 11:24 PM
#1
fyi!!!head gasket or internal coolant leak...
my 94 gs300 was still bubbling in the overfill tank,after i change the radiator,thermostat,water pump and radiator cap..bad head gasket was my next thing on my mind...i had no external leaks wat so ever...and still had boiling in overfill tank and coolant loss.....
so i tried blue devil permeant head gasket sealant ..warp /cracked head, blown head gasket,and etc..and this thing worked...it fixed all my overheating problems and restored my compression and car run even better..and cooler
im just tryin to help others out this situation....bottle cost $65 at oreilly's..and it was worth it...i dont have money to change out the head gasket, .youtube it ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-24QDGXb-c
so i tried blue devil permeant head gasket sealant ..warp /cracked head, blown head gasket,and etc..and this thing worked...it fixed all my overheating problems and restored my compression and car run even better..and cooler
im just tryin to help others out this situation....bottle cost $65 at oreilly's..and it was worth it...i dont have money to change out the head gasket, .youtube it ...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-24QDGXb-c
08-10-10, 12:06 AM
#4
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I don't know what it is but I also don't know if it's my radiator that's leaking or something else since it leaks half the time. I check everything on my GS everything is the same as it is.
08-10-10, 06:31 PM
#6
no prob..i just wanted to help out others that are stuck in my situation..i know how it feels,for the last week ive been workin on her nonstop and was clueless on wat else the promblem could of been, bhd was the last thing..and this product did the magic for good..
now im happy as hell that i fixed it and can keep on with my project 1st gen vip
08-25-10, 01:23 PM
#7
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My car is doing the same thing...I got a new water pump, thermostat, and radiator...right now i'm getting the fan clutch replaced...how do I know if I have a bhg?
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08-26-10, 06:57 AM
#8
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did you follow the exact same steps as in the video? or just drained a little bit of coolant from the radiator and added that stuff? I dont think fully draining the system down and running the car for 15 mins is a good idea
08-26-10, 08:58 AM
#9
Lead Lap
Some signs are bubbling in the overflow reservior or the condition where the reservior goes completely empty, but the radiator is full. Mine went in December. These cars are at the age where it's starting to happen to a lot of them.
08-28-10, 07:56 PM
#11
Blue Devil Sealant Review
EDIT:
For more a Better, more detailed Installation break down, go to page 2. This is left here for chronological purposes
Also Forgot to add that my motor was pegged hot for maybe a good 2-3 minutes before I realized anything. I coasted/using light throttle and the motor was making a very light tapping noise(I believe it was the valve train). I popped the hood and had the faint smell of oil, and a severely bubbling coolant reservoir. I let it cool down for about 35 min added water to the radiator and took it easy the next 2 blocks home(Sounds disappeared and throttle response was normal once cooled down and water was back in. Its kinda scary how strong the 2JZ-GE motors are). This lead me to hurry up and install the Blue Devil Sealer below.
Just Installed the blue devil gasket sealer(60$ at autozone) and followed the instructions to a "T" - kinda.
I first flushed the system thoroughly with 2 of the small bottles of prestone radiator flush(yellow bottle) and followed the instructions. Then I ran the water hose through the top of the radiator for about 8 minutes to flush out the Bar's Stop Leak Copper Particles(I had tried this earlier).
Only difference on the Blue Devil Instructions I did was I put the entire bottle instead of half the bottle for our 2 gallons radiator capacity. I then Took it for a test drive at 70 mph for 7 miles, and coolant temp was "1 temperature line" under the 2/5 line the entire freeway run.
At the stop light coming back, the temp. went "1 temperature line" above the 2/5's temperature mark, but once I got on the freeway it went back down to the same level as before. The Temperature was 76 Degrees outside, and on the freeway there may have been a bit of wind chill.
Bear in mind this is without the thermostat installed as instructed. When I feel confidant that everything is fine then I may put the thermostat back in.(As stated to do)
I made sure to run the heck out of it, and when I came back to park I quickly checked for the usual bubbling coolant reservoir. I was surprised to hear a slight bubble for a second then 3 seconds of silence, and another slight bubble and that was it.
(Before this fix it would have been bubbling up(sounding like a boiling pot of water) and spewing out water or coolant from that reservoir tank, and if I popped the cap at times the coolant would shoot up a foot and a half out of the reservoir tank! There was enough pressure in the system to go through 2 - .9 bar(13psi) radiator caps from Autozone. finally found a 1.1 bar(16psi) cap)
So at the current moment is seems as though its fixed.
I will keep you all posted on the next weeks turn out.
Before this I tried K & W Nanotechnology Head gasket and Block Repair(In the green bottle - 20$ Autozone) and then added a bottle of Bar's Leaks Permanent Cooling System Metallic Block Seal Intake and Radiator Stop Leak(The Brownish Liquid Copper bottle-8$ Autozone). This worked(I think it was the Bars stop leak IMO) for about 3 days then failed on a 85mph, 35 mile trip back home in 102 Degree weather. I'm assuming our motors are of high compression, and that was enough to push the Bar's stop leak back out.(A guy on the web tried Bar's Stop Leak in his Supra also and it failed. He thinks due to compression as well)
http://www.shop.com/K+W+174+NanoTech...84635-p+.xhtml
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...T|GRP2053____#
EDIT:
For more a Better, more detailed Installation break down, go to page 2. This is left here for chronological purposes
Also Forgot to add that my motor was pegged hot for maybe a good 2-3 minutes before I realized anything. I coasted/using light throttle and the motor was making a very light tapping noise(I believe it was the valve train). I popped the hood and had the faint smell of oil, and a severely bubbling coolant reservoir. I let it cool down for about 35 min added water to the radiator and took it easy the next 2 blocks home(Sounds disappeared and throttle response was normal once cooled down and water was back in. Its kinda scary how strong the 2JZ-GE motors are). This lead me to hurry up and install the Blue Devil Sealer below.
Just Installed the blue devil gasket sealer(60$ at autozone) and followed the instructions to a "T" - kinda.
I first flushed the system thoroughly with 2 of the small bottles of prestone radiator flush(yellow bottle) and followed the instructions. Then I ran the water hose through the top of the radiator for about 8 minutes to flush out the Bar's Stop Leak Copper Particles(I had tried this earlier).
Only difference on the Blue Devil Instructions I did was I put the entire bottle instead of half the bottle for our 2 gallons radiator capacity. I then Took it for a test drive at 70 mph for 7 miles, and coolant temp was "1 temperature line" under the 2/5 line the entire freeway run.
At the stop light coming back, the temp. went "1 temperature line" above the 2/5's temperature mark, but once I got on the freeway it went back down to the same level as before. The Temperature was 76 Degrees outside, and on the freeway there may have been a bit of wind chill.
Bear in mind this is without the thermostat installed as instructed. When I feel confidant that everything is fine then I may put the thermostat back in.(As stated to do)
I made sure to run the heck out of it, and when I came back to park I quickly checked for the usual bubbling coolant reservoir. I was surprised to hear a slight bubble for a second then 3 seconds of silence, and another slight bubble and that was it.
(Before this fix it would have been bubbling up(sounding like a boiling pot of water) and spewing out water or coolant from that reservoir tank, and if I popped the cap at times the coolant would shoot up a foot and a half out of the reservoir tank! There was enough pressure in the system to go through 2 - .9 bar(13psi) radiator caps from Autozone. finally found a 1.1 bar(16psi) cap)
So at the current moment is seems as though its fixed.
I will keep you all posted on the next weeks turn out.
Before this I tried K & W Nanotechnology Head gasket and Block Repair(In the green bottle - 20$ Autozone) and then added a bottle of Bar's Leaks Permanent Cooling System Metallic Block Seal Intake and Radiator Stop Leak(The Brownish Liquid Copper bottle-8$ Autozone). This worked(I think it was the Bars stop leak IMO) for about 3 days then failed on a 85mph, 35 mile trip back home in 102 Degree weather. I'm assuming our motors are of high compression, and that was enough to push the Bar's stop leak back out.(A guy on the web tried Bar's Stop Leak in his Supra also and it failed. He thinks due to compression as well)
http://www.shop.com/K+W+174+NanoTech...84635-p+.xhtml
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...T|GRP2053____#
Last edited by kene; 08-31-10 at 12:58 PM.
08-30-10, 07:02 AM
#12
IMO i wouldnt use any of this stuff unless I was planning to swap out my motor within a year or so. This stuff gets in every coolant passage of the motor and only "hides problems" and im sure it doesnt promote coolant flow....i would love to see someones coolant color after they ran this type of stuff in their car. But granted it does seem like a good TEMP fix.
Just my .02
Just my .02
08-30-10, 07:45 AM
#13
I would not mix it directly with coolant.(Even the instructions say flush the system, then mix it with water) It says it works with some coolants, but I would not want to try and test it out in the car. I mixed some with the Prestone coolant in a bucket(dexcool cool approved reddish orange coolant- gray 1 gallon bottle) and some parts started to crystalize. kinda like clumps of water and a very fine sugar, with these 1/4" clumps floating in the solution.
I don't know if it will work with standard green coolant or not...If your curious try a test outside of the vehicle in a pan or something.
This is the reason why I flushed my coolant system out thoroughly(as stated to do in the instructions.) This is a $60 fix so as I don't have to blow 900$+ on a new head gasket and head job. At that kinda price range that money is better served toward a 1,600$ 2jzgte, tranny, ecu, and harness.(auto of course)
It's non-clogging. The difference with the other brands is they have particles in the solution. Blue Devil is just a liquid chemical composition that activates when high temperatures are seen(combustion at the place that has been compromised)
I think after the whole procedure is said and done, just keep an eye on the coolant levels, and add water if needed. But I would not try and test it out pouring directly into your system with coolant inside.
http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...&ct=clnk&gl=us
I don't know if it will work with standard green coolant or not...If your curious try a test outside of the vehicle in a pan or something.
This is the reason why I flushed my coolant system out thoroughly(as stated to do in the instructions.) This is a $60 fix so as I don't have to blow 900$+ on a new head gasket and head job. At that kinda price range that money is better served toward a 1,600$ 2jzgte, tranny, ecu, and harness.(auto of course)
It's non-clogging. The difference with the other brands is they have particles in the solution. Blue Devil is just a liquid chemical composition that activates when high temperatures are seen(combustion at the place that has been compromised)
I think after the whole procedure is said and done, just keep an eye on the coolant levels, and add water if needed. But I would not try and test it out pouring directly into your system with coolant inside.
http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...&ct=clnk&gl=us
Last edited by kene; 08-30-10 at 09:25 AM.
08-30-10, 08:18 AM
#14
I believe that Blue Devil is sodium cilicate, and at 210-220 F. degrees is when it activates.
Automotive repair
Sodium silicate can be used to seal leaks at the head gasket. A common use is when an alloy cylinder head engine is left sitting for extended periods or the coolant is not changed at proper intervals, electrolysis can "eat out" sections of the head causing the gasket to fail.
Rather than remove the cylinder head, "liquid glass" is poured into the radiator and allowed to circulate. The waterglass is injected via the radiator water into the hotspot at the engine. This technique works because at 210–220 °F the sodium silicate loses water molecules to form a very powerful sealant that will not re-melt below 1500 °F.
Automotive repair
A sodium silicate repair of a leaking head gasket can hold for up to two years and even longer in some cases. The effect will be almost instant, and steam from the radiator water will stop coming out the exhaust within minutes of application. This repair only works with water-to-cylinder or water-to-air applications and where the sodium silicate reaches the "conversion" temperature of 210–220 °F.
It also is used in the Cash for clunkers program to retire vehicles.(Albeit, In a very crude and different manner.)
Link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_silicate
Thought this may help as well with sorting out a potential argument over when Blue Devil activates. This will give insight into what the temperature is at each temperature line and also as you start to get into the red zone, and when you peg-out above the red zone.
(BTW - My motor was pegged hot (needle halfway above the "H") for maybe a good 2-3 minutes before I realized a very slight difference in throttle response[distractions-loud music, wind noise, etc]. And Blue devil still fixed it.)
93-97 Coolant Temperature Gauge Modification
http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...&ct=clnk&gl=us
http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...ification.html
Full sweep peg to peg is 94°
Pegged hot 244°
Top of red is 227°
Bottom of red 217°
Center is approximately 189°
Cold line is 160°
Pegged cold 150°
Automotive repair
Sodium silicate can be used to seal leaks at the head gasket. A common use is when an alloy cylinder head engine is left sitting for extended periods or the coolant is not changed at proper intervals, electrolysis can "eat out" sections of the head causing the gasket to fail.
Rather than remove the cylinder head, "liquid glass" is poured into the radiator and allowed to circulate. The waterglass is injected via the radiator water into the hotspot at the engine. This technique works because at 210–220 °F the sodium silicate loses water molecules to form a very powerful sealant that will not re-melt below 1500 °F.
Automotive repair
A sodium silicate repair of a leaking head gasket can hold for up to two years and even longer in some cases. The effect will be almost instant, and steam from the radiator water will stop coming out the exhaust within minutes of application. This repair only works with water-to-cylinder or water-to-air applications and where the sodium silicate reaches the "conversion" temperature of 210–220 °F.
It also is used in the Cash for clunkers program to retire vehicles.(Albeit, In a very crude and different manner.)
Link:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sodium_silicate
Thought this may help as well with sorting out a potential argument over when Blue Devil activates. This will give insight into what the temperature is at each temperature line and also as you start to get into the red zone, and when you peg-out above the red zone.
(BTW - My motor was pegged hot (needle halfway above the "H") for maybe a good 2-3 minutes before I realized a very slight difference in throttle response[distractions-loud music, wind noise, etc]. And Blue devil still fixed it.)
93-97 Coolant Temperature Gauge Modification
http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...&ct=clnk&gl=us
http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...ification.html
Full sweep peg to peg is 94°
Pegged hot 244°
Top of red is 227°
Bottom of red 217°
Center is approximately 189°
Cold line is 160°
Pegged cold 150°
Last edited by kene; 08-31-10 at 12:44 PM.