GS - 1st Gen (1993-1997) Discussion about the first generation GS300

Project: headlight Mod: version 2

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Old 02-28-11, 10:28 AM
  #61  
deknick
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how deep is the scratch? can you get a picture? you might be able to wetsand it, but since that plastic isn't that thick to begin with, it'll all depend how deep it is
Old 02-28-11, 12:16 PM
  #62  
UpscaleGs
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Originally Posted by kidzik007
So if you use 180, start gradually going up in grit till u get to 1000.
To do the outside lens all i usually do is 800 wetsand then 1000 wetsand followed by gray scotch brite with prepping soap then clear. Since the inside of the lens has the grooves, the goal is to remoce them. I would do it as follows: 180 dry till i get all the humps more less, 220 dry, 320 dry, the wetsand with 400, 800, 1000, scotch brite w prepping soap, then clear.
The only reason me personally dont like polishing is because over time the lens will get yellow and the only way to remove the yellowish is bt repolishing. By clear coating the lens you are basically sealing the plastic adding a coat of protection if you may thus eliminating yellowing. Again this is just the method i follow based on my experience.
The way you are doing it is fine as well the only thing i am a bit afraid of is if it yellows in the inside you will have to take it appart to clean it up. My method is a bit more work but eliminates yellowing.
If you want to eliminate the step of clear-coating the lens you can re-seal the plastic with a number of sealers out there. This will apply to inside and outside of the lens. Try Diamondite Clear plastic liquid armor or any plastic light sealant. It prevents hazing and yellowing. After polishing the lense use the sealer very carefully as it could peel paint (I won't get into the science of it) I'm a detailer and I restore headlights all the time and been doing it for years and I seal every light I do and no hazing or yellowing has ever occured after sealing them, they will yellow and haze/cloud after a few washes without sealer. I've tested my lights and if you open the plastic's pores with sanding and polishing you are exposing it to the elements and UV. I sand with very high grade paper (eagle abrasives) up to 4000 grit (expensive) depending on the light. Kidzik007 is 100% right as adding clear is a level of protection but re-sealing is a step that protects the plastic in its raw unsealed form. Do NOT do both. Do not shoot clear and then sand and seal. That defeats the purpose. Its one or the other. Shoot clear wetsand and polish NO SEALER, or Sand, polish and seal. Also make sure you seal slowly and keep dust down and keep product light as it could run and you would have to let it dry sand it off and start the process all over. Hope this helps out.
Old 02-28-11, 01:39 PM
  #63  
deknick
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so is that diamondite clear plastic just in a spray can? so i would just polish it up like i have already, then spray some of that diamondite over it? should i wash it off before spraying the diamonite?

where would one get that?
Old 02-28-11, 01:53 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by deknick
so is that diamondite clear plastic just in a spray can? so i would just polish it up like i have already, then spray some of that diamondite over it? should i wash it off before spraying the diamonite?

where would one get that?
Try autogeek (not affiliated). Apply with quartered microfiber cloth. make sure its a cloth not a towel. some towels lint. You can spring for a mircofiber sponge and thats what I use. You can also apply with heavyduty blue cotton work towels those work great and can get a whole roll for about $2. If the Lense is clean then just apply and let cure. Don't spray it, it should be wiped on in even strokes starting from top to bottom and getting lighter as you get to the bottom of lense. If lense is dirty from oil from fingers etc. then take 50/50 isoalcohol water mix and decontaminate lens then re-polish lens. Wear latex or nitrile gloves when applying sealer let dry and everything should go well. I can tell you how to make sealer from stuff you can buy @ loews and home depot but I'm not one for write ups. I just wanted to chime in on something I know very well and wanted to help out.
Old 02-28-11, 03:00 PM
  #65  
deknick
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no for sure, i'd like to do this right, i kinda of hit a snag in the retrofit as the projectors have decided to turn themselves gay, so it looks like i'll be going for something a tad bit more expensive than the price of free that i got these current projectors at. so since i'm putting money into it, i'd like them to stay nice.

i'd like the easiest way. we dont' have autogeek up here, i've never heard of them actually. does email or msn messenger or facebook work better for me asking some more questions?
Old 02-28-11, 03:32 PM
  #66  
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Pm me when you have questions.
Old 02-28-11, 04:16 PM
  #67  
BarberMike
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Originally Posted by deknick
how deep is the scratch? can you get a picture? you might be able to wetsand it, but since that plastic isn't that thick to begin with, it'll all depend how deep it is
Scratch aint that deep, I was considering swapping that plastic with my gs300 plastic, which is crispy. I don't know if that's possible though....
Old 03-16-11, 11:13 PM
  #68  
deknick
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just a quick update, the project has hit a stand still, as i tested the projectors again, and somehow, with all the sanding, grinding, cuting, and what not i did, the projectors have changed, one has a nice blue cutoff line, and one has a nice orange cutoff line, so that's a no go, specially since i did research into the projectors and found out that they are HORRIBLE when paired with HID's.

so, since i gotta spend money to get new ones, i'll be "going big or going home" and will be getting some real projectors, in fact ones that are more renowned projectors for projector retrofits, in north america atleast.

stay tuned
Old 03-25-11, 11:38 PM
  #69  
deknick
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04-05 TSX projectors and 2.5" TSX-R clear lenses have been ordered and will be shipped in the next couple days.


hopefully i can have some rough prefits next weekend
Old 05-07-11, 12:22 AM
  #70  
deknick
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have been slowly sanding out more lines, and repolishing them with a WAY better product, and sealing them up too. just a teaser, will get more pictures up by the end of the weekend, just gotta finish sanding the one lense, then polish it up, and get some clear coat to seal it, and it'll be good to go:



Old 05-07-11, 01:08 AM
  #71  
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Nice update
Old 05-07-11, 06:22 AM
  #72  
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Looking good Nick !!
Old 05-07-11, 10:50 AM
  #73  
deknick
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thanks guys, the more i look at them, the more happier i get that i spent the time to get all the lines out, all the way to the bottom, looks like they came OEM, i'm really hoping this 3 stage polish/clear coat system i got holds up.

the main work now, is going to be fitting the acura TSX projectors, which are more oval than the last projectors i was going to put in. so i migh have some clearance issues, but i hope not. I should be starting a bit more work on them tomorrow, depending on how long it takes me to finish sanding/polishing and clear coating the 1 last lense that's almost done
Old 05-07-11, 11:17 PM
  #74  
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What are you using to polish them? Also what clear coat have you gone with? I've been lurking on this thread since it began and can't wait to see the final product. the lenses look great. I maybe just be interested in starting something like this eventually.
Old 05-10-11, 11:30 PM
  #75  
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well, i have finally been able to finish up the sanding/polishing/clear coating/sealing stage of the product, below are some quick pictures i took tonight just before bed.

sorry about the bad reflections and low quality pictures, they were quick and done with a really ****ty camera, my phone takes nicer pictures than this camera.















i'll upload more photos if/when needed. and will keep this up to date on the fitting of the Acura TSX projectors.


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