Can't bleed rear brakes after TT brakes swap...
12-23-10, 10:39 AM
#1
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Can't bleed rear brakes after TT brakes swap...
Just finished putting on rear Supra brakes last night. When we tried to bleed them, it just kept spitting out air. Very little fluid, like dripping, and a lot of air.
The calipers also do not seem to have fluid in them b/c the pistons are not moving.
So what I'm asking is what am I missing here? A buddy and I tried for 2 hours trying to bleed just the rears with no change. Using both the traditional method and a hand held vacuum pump.
Did the front brakes probably a month ago, and just now getting around to doing the rears. When I did the fronts I also replaced the master with a reman, and everything bled and worked fine...
wtf over???
The calipers also do not seem to have fluid in them b/c the pistons are not moving.
So what I'm asking is what am I missing here? A buddy and I tried for 2 hours trying to bleed just the rears with no change. Using both the traditional method and a hand held vacuum pump.
Did the front brakes probably a month ago, and just now getting around to doing the rears. When I did the fronts I also replaced the master with a reman, and everything bled and worked fine...
wtf over???
12-23-10, 07:57 PM
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Alright so to update this we tonight, got the rears bled, but I think my 'reman' master cylinder is garbage. Pedal goes to the floor basically but the car does stop.
Going to try to replace the master next week, with a genuine Toyota unit. Almost $400, but I don't want to have a problem with this again.
I'll leave you guys with this, I thought it was cool.
Going to try to replace the master next week, with a genuine Toyota unit. Almost $400, but I don't want to have a problem with this again.
I'll leave you guys with this, I thought it was cool.
12-24-10, 04:57 PM
#3
don't know if this will help, but when i had my maxima and did a 300zx TT caliper swap, the bleeder nut had to be on top, i installed it with the bleeder nut on the bottom and it had the same symptoms you mentioned. i swapped them around and they bled perfectly.
12-24-10, 05:26 PM
#4
bleed nut is on top side of the caliper because air rises, thus if u are trying to get the air out, it will rise to the bleeder. thats the easiest way to remember (if u didnt see the L or R stamp on the caliper.
u also need the key to the acc on position. the GS uses an electronic controlled rear brake system. once it is on, u can step on the pedal and it should pump brake fluid to the rear calipers. just keep an eye out for ur resevoir emptying out.
when i did my ls calipers, i did the traditional foot pump, and the vacuum pump to bleed the system. after i turned the key to the acc on position, it charged up the booster and the resevoir really began to empty, i did the whole thing twice to make sure the brake pedal felt closer to norm. expect to use at least a quart/liter of brake fluid.
u also need the key to the acc on position. the GS uses an electronic controlled rear brake system. once it is on, u can step on the pedal and it should pump brake fluid to the rear calipers. just keep an eye out for ur resevoir emptying out.
when i did my ls calipers, i did the traditional foot pump, and the vacuum pump to bleed the system. after i turned the key to the acc on position, it charged up the booster and the resevoir really began to empty, i did the whole thing twice to make sure the brake pedal felt closer to norm. expect to use at least a quart/liter of brake fluid.
12-28-10, 05:21 AM
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bleed nut is on top side of the caliper because air rises, thus if u are trying to get the air out, it will rise to the bleeder. thats the easiest way to remember (if u didnt see the L or R stamp on the caliper.
u also need the key to the acc on position. the GS uses an electronic controlled rear brake system. once it is on, u can step on the pedal and it should pump brake fluid to the rear calipers. just keep an eye out for ur resevoir emptying out.
when i did my ls calipers, i did the traditional foot pump, and the vacuum pump to bleed the system. after i turned the key to the acc on position, it charged up the booster and the resevoir really began to empty, i did the whole thing twice to make sure the brake pedal felt closer to norm. expect to use at least a quart/liter of brake fluid.
u also need the key to the acc on position. the GS uses an electronic controlled rear brake system. once it is on, u can step on the pedal and it should pump brake fluid to the rear calipers. just keep an eye out for ur resevoir emptying out.
when i did my ls calipers, i did the traditional foot pump, and the vacuum pump to bleed the system. after i turned the key to the acc on position, it charged up the booster and the resevoir really began to empty, i did the whole thing twice to make sure the brake pedal felt closer to norm. expect to use at least a quart/liter of brake fluid.
But, I'm still thinking the master is bad. Even with the fronts and rears completely bled, the pedal is still going to the floor. Actually it doesn't engage the brakes until the pedal is on the floor. I was able to drive the car home like this, but it was a little unnerving hitting the brake pedal and nothing happening until the pedal was all the way down.
12-28-10, 06:47 AM
#7
U gotta re-search how to properly bleed the rear brakes. I had the same thing on a normal un modded gs because i didnt bleed them properly. I believe its more to it than just Key on if u already did it wrong. If i get more info i'll post.
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12-28-10, 12:53 PM
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IS300 something like this??...
Trust me on this one =p
Do this and you'll be happy
1). remove wheel/tire,
2). locate the drain nipple, remove rubber cover, and break it loose but do not loosen all the way
3). put some drain hose on the nipple or some type of draining device.. (i used a 1 man bleeder that had a 1 way valve not bad for $3).
4). have someone in the car, put key on "ON" but do not crank over.
5). have that same person press and hold on the brake
6). loosen the bleed/nipple nut 3/4 turn or so till you see fluid rushing out
7). bleed as much as u can but fill before the fluid gets to low.
done =p
Do this and you'll be happy
1). remove wheel/tire,
2). locate the drain nipple, remove rubber cover, and break it loose but do not loosen all the way
3). put some drain hose on the nipple or some type of draining device.. (i used a 1 man bleeder that had a 1 way valve not bad for $3).
4). have someone in the car, put key on "ON" but do not crank over.
5). have that same person press and hold on the brake
6). loosen the bleed/nipple nut 3/4 turn or so till you see fluid rushing out
7). bleed as much as u can but fill before the fluid gets to low.
done =p
01-05-11, 05:27 AM
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Tried the method mentioned above, and nothing happened. No fluid rushing out, actually no fluid came out at all when the bleeder was open.
I don't know what else to do, everything I've read says that method should have worked. I checked the fuses for the ABS, all good.
Anyone know how what Lexus charges for bleeding the brakes?
I don't know what else to do, everything I've read says that method should have worked. I checked the fuses for the ABS, all good.
Anyone know how what Lexus charges for bleeding the brakes?
01-11-11, 09:39 AM
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Anyway on these cars to tell if the trac control stuff has been removed, and would that have effect on this problem??
Also, can I manually activate the ABS pump, and is there anyway to check and where would I check to ensure the pump is getting power?
Also, can I manually activate the ABS pump, and is there anyway to check and where would I check to ensure the pump is getting power?
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