CallmeQ

iTrader: (2)

I would like to start saving for a swap but I can't get over the fact that I just put some money into my motor.

New W/P
Timing Belt
Front Cams/Crank Seal
Radiator
Timing Tensioners
Valve Cover Gasket
etc.

The motor has about 175k on it and in my eyes still is strong and reliable.

Would it still be reliable if I just went NA-T? This is my DD and I want more power but I just don't want to put in the work of swapping the motor.

How can I check the motors health and make sure that it is strong enough for a turbo?

poplatino4

iTrader: (1)

compression test, leak down test, check oil pan for any debris and while your at it clean the pick up tube screen. If you wanna go the distance, check for any bearing damage or rod play.

CallmeQ

iTrader: (2)

Thanks man. That helps out a lot because I actually need to replace my oil pan gasket. So I can check everything while I'm under the car.
Then I guess if all that checks out I will continue with the compression and leak down test.

Carfreak70

iTrader: (16)

This is really not a question we can answer. I have seen people with over 300K boost their cars and they turn out fine. Honestly, mileage is a number. How you take care of your motor is a different story. Here is a quick way to tell. If your car has Toyota Red in it (which it came with from factory) then your car was probably well taken care of. Now, I don't know how long you have had it, but if you keep up with your oil changes, and dont nottice anything that needs to be fixed or repaired, then it sounds like you should move forward. Always just take care of maintainence first, else it will bite you. Hard.

Also, you pretty much have to replace the head gasket on it for boost. I can swap a motor faster than I can change a head gasket in one of these cars....just saying. If a TT swap is what you really want, dont hesitate, it isnt hard....trust me, I have done 2 in these things now.

CallmeQ

iTrader: (2)

I was thinking about the head gasket. If that is a must then I would much rather swap the motor. I hate head gasket jobs.

Toyota Red? Do you mean the coolant? If that's the case then yes the car did have it up until I did the major service.

The motor swap does seem very straight forward, it also appears to be more expensive. Why not boost what I have for half the price? Realistically I'm only looking for 300 whp anyway, something to make the car feel more up to date with all these G35's and whatnot around here. I'm doing tons of research and looking for some insight on which direction is best for me.

Carfreak70

iTrader: (16)

I can't lie, if my car had a good GE in it, I would have just gone NA-t. Otherwise I had to do what I did. The cool-factor is kinda nice too

I did mean the coolant BTW. And you need to flush anything else you have in there out and put Toyota Red back in. It has special ingredients in it to make your coolant system not build up algea (which is VERY common in our cars for some reason). Toyota Red is the ****. You need to get it. Its decently expensive, but totally worth the money. Only need 1 gallon.
Motor swap is VERY straight forward. I swapped mine for 2,300 which includes motor trans and fluids, all of that.

If you need my opinion, I say go ahead and boost the GE. They are good motors. You have to do a head gasket. There is no two ways about it. That coupled with a TT or upgreaded head gasket. I love my GTE swapped car. Its my DD, has cold A/C, and my new one I just got is clean as hell! Let me know what questions you have. I have done countless hours of research.

CallmeQ

iTrader: (2)

Now I'm a little swayed, 2,300 is a lot more manageable than what I have been reading.

I'm a little apprehensive because I read a lot about people getting motorsets and they have missing/broken parts or they are bad motors which leave the buyer spending more money than they anticipated. Where did you get your motorset?

Carfreak70

iTrader: (16)

I got my motor from Japan Power out of Canada. I got really lucky I guess. The shipping company they used was really nice, and looked like they actually cared for my package. I won't lie, the company was a little shady, like asking for things they shouldn't need (SSN#)...just so you know they said they needed it for boarder patrol, which I asked him to have them call me and get it from me, and they did, I got name and info...the whole 9 yards and eventually gave it up, and I constantly monitor my credit, and nothing suspicious has happened at all, so I think it was all honest.

The only problem with my motor is it needs cam seals...whoopty, doo...I can't complain at all. Not a dang thing on my swap was broken. They even included the Cruise control unit...ect.

m1k3yg

Honestly, I was thinkin of the swap for the future, but since my engine seems a bit neglected I decided I might just get my hands on a separate 2jz ge head and rebuild, cams, upgraded pistons, port polish, gaskets and pretty much a major clean up, and then use that engine for boosting, given it would be in a pretty good condition

link13

The head gasket is definitely a likely weak link. If it has not been replaced, it probably needs to be. Mine was nice and started leaking for me, so I knew. If you boost a 16 year old car with 175K miles and the head gasket is not well, it will blow. All that said, I would also be concerned about the transmission. Everything I've read says the max crank horsepower our 4 speed auto will take is 300. If you're looking for 300 at the wheels, you are pushing it and should be aware of that factor as well.

CallmeQ

iTrader: (2)

Yes I was thinking about the transmission as well. I think I am leaning more towards the swap side. I like the stock look and reliability of it all.

One big question I have, Does the aristo exhaust manifold bolt up to the stock GS pipe?

I don't want to get too fancy with downpipes and custom exhaust in the beginning.

wayne

iTrader: (27)

If you get the factory down pipe with the GTE motor, it will bolt up to the stock GS midpipe.

Matador

If you go NA-T and blow the motor you can always pick up another block for dirt cheap

CallmeQ

iTrader: (2)

@Wayne- It seems like the factory downpipe is hard to find, but that is good news none the less.

@Matador- I considered that also but then it seems a little counter intuitive to do the work twice.

It seems like for the price and ease of installation a swap is the most cost effective route to take. It sets me up for the future if I want to upgrade to a single too. I've been thinking about it all day and I see it like this, I'm still in school and have student loans. I'd rather pay those off than buy a new car when I graduate. The most feasible alternative is to put a fresher motor in my car and get some more power while I'm at it.

I think you guys just helped me talk myself into a decision. Now its time to work hard and save all winter lol

Matador

Head over to the SC forums if you want to read countless threads about NA-T vs GTE. Honestly you will be fine either way. You end up spending roughly the same amount of money for very similar power levels.